Timing Belt Tensioner

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Oct 17, 2013 2:36 am

I was reading through the service manual for doing the timing belt. It shows a picture of the correct tensioner alignment:

The manual states: Adjust the timing belt tensioner, lining up the center notch with the aluminum cover dowel pin....

Also read #2 in the image "1mm alignment pointer overlap"....

Everything I have read on this site says to align the notch in the center of the spring rod that protrudes from the tensioner. Your thoughts and input are appreciated.

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Oct 17, 2013 6:54 am

I have always aligned it when possible as shown in your picture, however after rotating the belt a few times to check the timing and then after a test start some of the tension is pulled up by the tensioner and it typically ends up with the indicator in the center of the 1mm pin. I supposed if you just feel safer in bed at night you could adjust it as pictured again, but really it wouldn't be warranted in my humble opinion.

The big thing is the timing correctness.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:35 am

Hexus has it right. When you first install the new TB set things like in the picture then manually rotate the engine at least 2 full turns and recheck the pins and position of the tensioner. Rotating the engine completes the "seating" of the belt and will relax the tensioner a bit; with luck the pin will now be in the center of that window but if not reset the tensioner and redo the rotation/check cycle.

Ultimately it probably doesn't matter when all done it the pin is in the pictured position or centered in the slot. Either way the belt is under plenty of tension.

More important:
1. proper torque for the tensioner bolt is between 22 and 28 foot pounds no more
2. on the engines I've seen the inner timing belt cover where the tensioner bolt threads into has a helicoil installed so be careful not to pull the helicoil out. If you do it's a common one that can easily be replaced.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Oct 17, 2013 3:27 pm

The indicators to watch are the "window" and the rod of the spring. Set them initially as shown in the image, with the "window" to the right (further clockwise) of the spring rod. Tighten the bolt or nut to 28lb-ft, no more. As you rotate the engine by hand, the tension will take up the slack and everything will settle in. The window SHOULD end up centered on the rod. If it is to the left (counter-clockwise) then there was more slack on the belt that had been taken up. Re-tension back to just to the right of the rod, and rotate again twice more by hand. You do not want to close everything up with the window to the left of the rod.

As the belt wears, the tension will gradually shift the window further and further to the left. After 100k miles, each of the tensioners I have investigated has still been over the rod, but the windows have all been to the left of the rod.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Oct 17, 2013 6:31 pm

I want to thank you guys for your feedback.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:17 pm

I lined mine up with the rod centered in the window. I rotated the engine a few turns, and then re-aligned it with the center in the window. I started it and shut it off, and it remained in the center, so I buttoned it up. Been good for over 5K now. I think either way is fine...

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:27 pm

That way works too, I guess. The main thing is that the window is centered over the rod, after you have rotated the engine by hand / and or started it up and let it idle a bit.

FYI: I always rotate by hand first, just in case something is out of alignment somehow. The starter has more than enough power to crack a rocker, especially if the belt isn't seated properly. I also always re-insert the two top pins after the hand rotation to validate that the cams are where they should be.

Check, re-check, then check it again just to be certain. Otherwise, you are playing russian roulette with 3 bullets in the gun and $500 (minimum) on the table.

Timing Belt Tensioner

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