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 Post subject: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:50 pm
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Location: Central Indiana
Alright, it's frackin' cold outside, and now apparently I have a block heater cord issue.

Before I go out and lay on the 30 degree concrete, has anyone replaced their cord yet? IF so, do you have any tips or pointers? Initially it popped the GFI in the garage, and I reset it and watched fancy sparks fly all over the front of my jeep. Then I noted the cord was worn right near the plug and there were several spots from 7+ years of bending/blowing in the wind, where I could see the wires coming through, so obviously a short.

I taped up about 8" of the cord, tried again, and got less sparks, but still got them.

Anyways, has anyone replaced the whole cord? Or should I just do a couple feet from inside the engine bay? Thoughts?

I'm sure I can figure this out easily, but I would prefer to hear some experienced folk first, that's why I'm a "Lifetime Member" after all, lol.

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GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:49 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee, Florida
I don't have the PN handy but it was only like $25 at my friendly local dealer when we replaced stoutdog's in about 08 or 09. Not a big deal but it's handy to have 2 people. 1 down below to remove and attach the connectors and 1 up top to pull the old cord out (might want to tie a bit of string to the bottom end when pulling out to then attach to new wire to pull in) and feed the new one down. When done use zip ties to attach the cord to the dip stick and wiring to where you can tuck it in near the power distribution box. I uses a bit of 2 sided velcro to secure it to the radiator upper cross member to keep it from flopping around.

There is a picture of the lower end posted at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=74594

Kind if tight in there but doable.

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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:11 pm 
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Posts: 60
I did not experience a short but my block heater went dead a few years ago due to wear. I cut about 6 inches off the cord and installed a new plug.


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:47 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Dubuque, IA
I had a wire break in my cord next to the plug. No sparks or shorts, just a non working block heater. I added a bit of wire (from an old extension cord) and installed one of these in my bumper. http://www.amazon.com/Marinco-150BBI-On-Board-Charger-125-Volt/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sim_auto_4
After about a year of use, the little flap cover doesn't stay closed any more. I may be moving to this other one because it looks like it will seal better.
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-GCP1-Black-125V/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=pd_sim_sg_6

Here is a pic with the Marinco Unit installed in the front bumper.
Image

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2005 131k 3.7 Gasser (Lifted-CRD Springs, 4.10 Gears, F+R DTT, Teraflex 2wd Low, Skidrow/Mopar Skids, Rock Lizard Super Skinks, Goodyear Wrangler Authority 31x10.5-15)
2012 Triumph Tiger (TKC 80 Front Tire Heidnau K60 Rear, Crash Bars, Skid Plate, Bark Busters, Pelican Case Top Box)


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:30 pm 
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Location: Central Indiana
I went ahead and got one at the Local NAPA for $18. It was actually better quality than the OEM. It was fairly easy to replace except that the plug in is nearly unreachable for someone of my size. It sits pretty much directly underneath and further in than the stupid FCV and it's easiest to reach from around the top of the FCV with the Intercooler hose (Driver side) removed, but you can only see it from underneath.

After about 20 minutes of wrestling and swearing, I installed the new cord and then routed it much better along the frame. I zip tied it in about 4 places along the way and we should be good for another 140k miles!

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 8:45 am
Posts: 908
Location: Western, PA
Hexus wrote:
I went ahead and got one at the Local NAPA for $18. It was actually better quality than the OEM. It was fairly easy to replace except that the plug in is nearly unreachable for someone of my size. It sits pretty much directly underneath and further in than the stupid FCV and it's easiest to reach from around the top of the FCV with the Intercooler hose (Driver side) removed, but you can only see it from underneath.

After about 20 minutes of wrestling and swearing, I installed the new cord and then routed it much better along the frame. I zip tied it in about 4 places along the way and we should be good for another 140k miles!


You replaced the compete cord? Do you have a P/N? Mine is not looking to good from years of use.

Thanks
KJJET

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:38 pm 
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Location: Central Indiana
kjjet wrote:
Hexus wrote:
I went ahead and got one at the Local NAPA for $18. It was actually better quality than the OEM. It was fairly easy to replace except that the plug in is nearly unreachable for someone of my size. It sits pretty much directly underneath and further in than the stupid FCV and it's easiest to reach from around the top of the FCV with the Intercooler hose (Driver side) removed, but you can only see it from underneath.

After about 20 minutes of wrestling and swearing, I installed the new cord and then routed it much better along the frame. I zip tied it in about 4 places along the way and we should be good for another 140k miles!


You replaced the compete cord? Do you have a P/N? Mine is not looking to good from years of use.

Thanks
KJJET


If you have a NAPA nearby it's KAT 28400.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:33 am 
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Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 8:45 am
Posts: 908
Location: Western, PA
Thanks

KJJET

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:16 pm
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Location: Oxford, Connecticut
I had a problem with my cord and I was informed that the problem is usually near the plug area where the wires tend to snap due to the plug shaking as it hangs out of the front grill when the vehicle moves..

I cut the wire back 2 inches and replaced the plug with one of these http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-A ... 100011602#

I then sealed the the wires with this Plastic Dip Intl.: Black Liquid Tape, LET14Z03.

It was a simple fix and now the cord is better than new and works perfect.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 1:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 8:45 am
Posts: 908
Location: Western, PA
We all know how it goes. When its real cold something will fail. So my heater stopped working. the Jeep started but had the death shake due to it being -6F outside.
I checked it with a ohm meter and found a very high resistance, until i moved the wire a 1/2 inch from the plug then i would get fluctuations in the readings. Napa was out of stock for a replacement cord. So i cut off an inch and installed a new plug end. Like racertracer.

Worked prefect this morning. I highly suggest checking your cord with a ohm meter.

KJJET

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


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 Post subject: Re: Block Heater Cord Woes
PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:16 pm
Posts: 3059
Location: Oxford, Connecticut
You got it...... and don't forget the black paint on sealant.

This sealant is the next best thing to Wonder bread. It seals stress breaks on the cord, creates a thicker stronger rubber barrier, holds back humidity, rain, snow, cold, heat, rattles and shakes.

Why heck, when I am not using it as an engine heater cord it doubles as a short tow rope extension. Or a bow string in case of an emergency. :)

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"


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