CV Axles

OneCheekRider · **Posted:** Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:30 pm

I need new CV axles (both sides). I understand Napa Remanufactured are recommended. Any others to consider for the CRD? Mind listing part numbers for ones you've used successfully?

I have a 2.5" OME lift if that makes a difference.

arengant · **Posted:** Tue Oct 29, 2013 2:21 am

OneCheekRider wrote:

I need new CV axles (both sides). I understand Napa Remanufactured are recommended. Any others to consider for the CRD? Mind listing part numbers for ones you've used successfully?

I have a 2.5" OME lift if that makes a difference.

Have you thought about getting expensive ones from JBA since you have a lift? Any reason why they are BOTH bad? I have yet to replace mine but I plan on going the NAPA route.

There is a member on here that takes NAPA ones and cuts them down for better clearance and runs them on HIS crd. I would just double check the length of the new to old before you dismantle if possible.

OneCheekRider · **Posted:** Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:19 am

it's really just the driver's side that needs to be replaced...but I figure since I'm doing one, might as well do the other?

I'm assuming you mean these JBA CV axles: http://jeepinbyal.com/jeep-liberty-kj/f ... e-crd.html

Looking at option 1, that's nearly $500 for one side. With a core exchange, the Napa ones are only $70/side. I figure I can replace the Napa ones quite a few times while still being cheaper than JBA?

arengant · **Posted:** Wed Oct 30, 2013 2:16 am

OneCheekRider wrote:

it's really just the driver's side that needs to be replaced...but I figure since I'm doing one, might as well do the other?

I'm assuming you mean these JBA CV axles: http://jeepinbyal.com/jeep-liberty-kj/f ... e-crd.html

Looking at option 1, that's nearly $500 for one side. With a core exchange, the Napa ones are only $70/side. I figure I can replace the Napa ones quite a few times while still being cheaper than JBA?

Yes 500 is steep but unless you carry a spare a broken cv could leave you stranded. I think audioboy was offering them for around $200 a side

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:20 am

arengant wrote:

Yes 500 is steep but unless you carry a spare a broken cv could leave you stranded. I think audioboy was offering them for around $200 a side

A broken CV will not strand you if you have the tools to remove it.I broke a CV axle on the trail once and still drove 2 hours home just fine.

arengant · **Posted:** Wed Oct 30, 2013 3:55 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

arengant wrote:

Yes 500 is steep but unless you carry a spare a broken cv could leave you stranded. I think audioboy was offering them for around $200 a side

A broken CV will not strand you if you have the tools to remove it.I broke a CV axle on the trail once and still drove 2 hours home just fine.

Correct

A broken CV doesn't HAVE to strand you. I guess I was just saying worse case scenario.

It's like having a cheap Walmart battery instead of the Odyssey/Die Hard, it won't strand you if you are 100 miles away from home, but I would still rather have the "upgraded" that won't likely die on me just like I would rather have an "upgraded" CV that won't likely die on me.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:30 pm

arengant wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

arengant wrote:

Yes 500 is steep but unless you carry a spare a broken cv could leave you stranded. I think audioboy was offering them for around $200 a side

A broken CV will not strand you if you have the tools to remove it.I broke a CV axle on the trail once and still drove 2 hours home just fine.

Correct

A broken CV doesn't HAVE to strand you. I guess I was just saying worse case scenario.

It's like having a cheap Walmart battery instead of the Odyssey/Die Hard, it won't strand you if you are 100 miles away from home, but I would still rather have the "upgraded" that won't likely die on me just like I would rather have an "upgraded" CV that won't likely die on me.

There is nothing "upgraded" about those cut CV's,there actually downgraded from un-touched CV axles.

arengant · **Posted:** Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:08 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

There is nothing "upgraded" about those cut CV's,there actually downgraded from un-touched CV axles.

Correct again

They are not STRONGER, but if the OP has a bad driver's side CV (the short one) possible caused by his lift, I thought a "shaved" CV would be less likely to fail than an OEM replacement. Now tjkj2002 correct me if I am wrong maybe shaved CVs are a complete hype?

In your case when you broke your CV it wasn't related to the lift correct? You would have benefited from a STRONGER unit?

Sorry this thread got highjacked

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:17 pm

arengant wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

There is nothing "upgraded" about those cut CV's,there actually downgraded from un-touched CV axles.

Correct again

They are not STRONGER, but if the OP has a bad driver's side CV (the short one) possible caused by his lift, I thought a "shaved" CV would be less likely to fail than an OEM replacement. Now tjkj2002 correct me if I am wrong maybe shaved CVs are a complete hype?

In your case when you broke your CV it wasn't related to the lift correct? You would have benefited from a STRONGER unit?

Sorry this thread got highjacked

I broke the outer CV joint,"shaved" CV's cut 3/8" off the inner CV cup so no my lift had nothing to do with my CV breaking.Those 3 giant boulders that I wedged my LF tire in-between blew that outer CV joint.

"shaved" CV pro's...................
-sorry can't find any

"shaved" CV cons.....................
-unless machined back in the inner CV joint retaining clip is gone
-unless machined back in you loose 75% of the CV boot clamping area

So basically you spend $400+ more to have the inner CV joint to pull apart and max flex and the boot to fall off at any time.

arengant · **Posted:** Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:28 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

"shaved" CV pro's...................
-sorry can't find any

"shaved" CV cons.....................
-unless machined back in the inner CV joint retaining clip is gone
-unless machined back in you loose 75% of the CV boot clamping area

So basically you spend $400+ more to have the inner CV joint to pull apart and max flex and the boot to fall off at any time.

I always thought shaving the CV allowed it to not bind and possible pinch/rip the CV boot, and yes that is assuming the retaining clip is still used.

OneCheekRider · **Posted:** Thu Oct 31, 2013 9:38 am

Looks like I missed a lot! I've been looking into getting "upgraded" CV axles but now I'm not sure what to do...

I did notice that I have an axle seal leak on the passenger side...when the passenger tire is in full droop and turning it "pushes" the diff... Could this be why some get cut CV's? To my understanding a cut CV adds articulation? I'm still new at this so correct me if I'm way off.

TJKJ, are you saying cutting a stock CV isn't good... what about getting a completely aftermarket setup that is designed to be "stronger"?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:43 am

OneCheekRider wrote:

Looks like I missed a lot! I've been looking into getting "upgraded" CV axles but now I'm not sure what to do...

I did notice that I have an axle seal leak on the passenger side...when the passenger tire is in full droop and turning it "pushes" the diff... Could this be why some get cut CV's? To my understanding a cut CV adds articulation? I'm still new at this so correct me if I'm way off.

TJKJ, are you saying cutting a stock CV isn't good... what about getting a completely aftermarket setup that is designed to be "stronger"?

Ran into a similar issue with a guy that had the JBA 6" lift and cut CV's.He would get so much droop that even the cut CV's would make his diff shift back and forth on it's mounts,and it was some massive movement also.Had to try and limit his droop,worked a little but he still had issues.

You only have 2 options for real upgraded CV's,JE Reel's(even if they still make them) or RCV's axles which I believe will set you back almost $2000.

After I broke a outer CV joint that really confirmed going SFA was the best choice

OneCheekRider · **Posted:** Thu Oct 31, 2013 1:17 pm

I'm looking into RCV's but really don't want to spend $2K!

I'm surprised how a 2.5" lift would effect the CV's like this. My Jeep sees a helluva lot more pavement than not, so I figure going the Napa route, even if they do fail a few times, will make more sense money wise. I'm definitely inclined to go that route but don't want to jeopardize my diff or continuously replace axle seals. What do you suggest?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 31, 2013 2:25 pm

OneCheekRider wrote:

I'm looking into RCV's but really don't want to spend $2K!

I'm surprised how a 2.5" lift would effect the CV's like this. My Jeep sees a helluva lot more pavement than not, so I figure going the Napa route, even if they do fail a few times, will make more sense money wise. I'm definitely inclined to go that route but don't want to jeopardize my diff or continuously replace axle seals. What do you suggest?

Just get the Napa remaned ones.I was at 3.75" of lift with stock CV's and no issues till I broke a outer CV joint.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Oct 31, 2013 2:35 pm

For what it's worth:
1. I have no personal experience but past chat suggests a 2-2.5" lift should not cause CV problems. That said CV joints do fail from normal use from time to time.
2. Past chat also indicates you may be able to get a CV joint rebuild kit from http://www.driveshaftparts.com/cv-joint ... p/liberty/ . May be worth a phone call.

OneCheekRider · **Posted:** Thu Oct 31, 2013 4:07 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Just get the Napa remaned ones.I was at 3.75" of lift with stock CV's and no issues till I broke a outer CV joint.

What about the diff movement I'm getting? I don't want to damage it or have to replace seals again soon.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 31, 2013 4:17 pm

OneCheekRider wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

Just get the Napa remaned ones.I was at 3.75" of lift with stock CV's and no issues till I broke a outer CV joint.

What about the diff movement I'm getting? I don't want to damage it or have to replace seals again soon.

Sounds more like bad mount bushings since your not near enough in lift height to max out stock CV's.The CRD uses a much longer passenger side CV axle then the 3.7 KJ's since they shifted the diff to the drivers side more to clear the CRD's oil pan.Your drivers side CV will max out well before the passenger side will.

arengant · **Posted:** Thu Oct 31, 2013 7:23 pm

OneCheekRider wrote:

I'm looking into RCV's but really don't want to spend $2K!

I'm surprised how a 2.5" lift would effect the CV's like this. My Jeep sees a helluva lot more pavement than not, so I figure going the Napa route, even if they do fail a few times, will make more sense money wise. I'm definitely inclined to go that route but don't want to jeopardize my diff or continuously replace axle seals. What do you suggest?

The RCV's on Hondura's Liberty were worse than the JE ones he said...

VMKJCRD · **Posted:** Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:06 am

I went with EMPI cvs in the drives side and will be getting one for the passenger side when its needed. Its been on for a year and so far so good. I do lots of deep root and very very bumpy sand driving and haven't had any issues. The only thing I noticed about the EMPIs is that the boot is not as strong as the stock ones.

Good luck getting the correct size for the crd from Napa. They will think its a normal liberty and send you the 3.7 like it happened to a few members already. If I'm not mistaken and if I'm wrong someone please correct me but the crds have the same CVS as the 2.4. Libertys.

Crd= 23 3/4
3.7= 24 1/4

JDaPP · **Posted:** Fri Nov 20, 2015 11:51 pm

I am going to be replacing the cv axles next weekend. Couple of questions:
-I understand the axle seal is a pain in the rear, but what makes it so painful to replace? Any tips if I do have to replace it? Not planning on replacing it, I just want to make sure I can handle it if they are bad.
- anyone happen to know the part #s for the axle seal?
- is there a place where the torque settings are listed?

Thanks for the help.

CV Axles

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