I still suspect it's getting into the motor somehow... but it isn't blowing compression into the cooling system that I can find. Anyone out there in Chicagoland who can do this? I just can't do this myself.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

Whats leaking ?

I am losing antifreeze, can't find any external leak... I just had the head gasket and timing belt done.

I'm thinking it leaks into a cylinder, but I can't for the life of me figure out how it leaks that much but doesn't build pressure in the cooling system, nor blow the water out.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

From Friday mid day to sunday mid day, without the rig being run, the reservoir dropped a bit more than an inch. I am guessing this is between a pint and a quart... If it had leaked into a cylinder, it should have hydrolocked, but hasn't. Nor does it seem to act like there was water in the motor, like cranking hard on one cylinder when you start it. I've now lost just about a gallon, but there's no sludge in the oil, the oil has merely dropped slightly from the last oil change, where they filled it TO THE FREAKING LINE, which I understand causes it to burn or blow it out.

So, I have a couple theories... One, is that leaks into the exhaust somehow, but not into a cylinder, since 2 ounces of water in a cylinder should be locking it. Or it leaks into the intake and blows through. I have yet to find a single drop under the rig. The EGR cooler is no longer connected. If it's not going into the motor, then it's a magical mystery leak that never lands on the ground. And that's always possible, too.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

I'd send an oil sample to Blackstone or lab of your choice. I would also do the UV dye check. If gravity has enough pull to lower the coolant level (did I read you hadn't started it?) I'd look for an external leak.

PS I have read on this board that full is to the lip inside the bottle. Mine sits about 1/4 in. below that mark. . . and stays there.

good luck

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

With no fluid on the ground, and coolant leaking, but supposedly not into the motor, I'd say your best bet is EGR.

Can't be oil cooler, as it would then be in the oil
Can't be in the trans, as the trans cooler is separate, unlike non-tow equipped gassers.
Can't be the head, as it's not pressurizing the coolant or getting in the oil


The only logical choice is that the coolant is either in the EGR, or getting sucked into the intake.

The EGR is disconnected - as in, the hoses disconnected and plugged. The FCV is wide open and connector unplugged - so no real egr flow.

I've seen the water / oil mix problem, and how it creates the gray sludge, etc. don't have that.

I've begun to suspect I might have a crack in the head between the water jacket and exhaust port. Since there's no compression there, it would not force compression into the cooling system. It would go into the exhaust system, without particularly leaking into the motor. It would be very small.

I'm gonna try some permanent sealant. Since everything was flushed and cleaned already, including the radiator, I'm just going to try one of the brands of block / gasket / head sealants. That might be or have been the fix all along. I also had a thought it might possibly be a tiny leak in the gasket or a bolt hole for the water pump, which was changed. Sealant would take care of that, too. It would also explain why I can't find any drips, as it would get dispelled when I drive it.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

Are you getting any air out the top of the radiator? In my experience, I opened the valve twice a day for almost two weeks before I got all the air out of the system. I added water daily for a while.

I'm still putting mine back together, or I'd offer my help. Hopefully I can back on the road by the end of the week if I don't get interupted.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Well... I added some of the "head gasket" type stop leak to the system and it got the directions followed and 20 more miles of driving.

No missing when it starts, no steam and no blue smoke. And no water dropping.

I think the leak is NOT the head gasket and somehow, it was getting into motor anyway.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

Hope that fixes it. Not sure where else coolant could be getting into the engine other than a crack.

This was my biggest fear and why I decided to pull the head and have it checked. Not to say mine is 100% yet, I need to put some miles on it before I'll feel comfortable that my wrenching skills are adequate.

I'm up in Elgin if you want to get a second set of eyes on it.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Yeah, well, when it was off to get the head gasket replaced, the machine shop said it had no leaks. Not that they can't be wrong, but generally, the mechanic has had good luck with them.

I changed oil again today and will check it after next oil change, so if any traces of antifreeze exist next oil change.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

Very slim chance, but you might have very small pin holes in some of your cylinder sleeves. The holes through the wet sleeves was an issue in the 1990s before they got the coolant technology developed with coolant system conditioners along with reformulation and solved the problem. If the shop who replaced the head gasket did not use the recommended coolant (like HOAT) you have a small chance you cylinder sleeve(s) have small pin holes. Check out all the other suggestions first, it is a long shot.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

curious question, but are you 100% positive that they used the correct head gasket to match the shimming of the sleeves?

IIRC, with the Renault's, using the thicker gasket or thinner gasket that did not match the shimming of the sleeves would result in a coolant leak at the top of the sleeves and into the cylinder with the thicker gasket, and a coolant leak into the oil with the thinner gasket.

Well, what I added was one of those "miracle" sealants, the silicate types. So far, no other issues, and it doesn't appear I've lost any more water in 800 miles.

I am of the opinion it has a crack or other leak wasn't into the combustion chamber itself. I'm going to drive this thing for a while like this (I have to make some money for a while), and then hope to trade it off on another work rig.

If I make it 20K miles with no further water loss, I'll consider it permanent...

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.