In order to remove the control arms and replace the bushings, It looks like I have to remove the shock to get one bolt out all the way and also the exhaust pipe. I have never removed a shock on a car, do I need to worry about the rear end dropping when I remove the bolt and swing the shock out of way, will the spring hold it up? also on the passenger side, it looks like I have to remove the muffler. Is there anything else I am missing besides the fact that these nuts are on way to tight? This group has been a great help so far on all my other problems..
Thanks
Sean

Not sure I understand you... I think you want to replace the rear arms, right? Check your vin and see, depending on where you live, you may have a free rear control arm replacement as a recall by a jeep dealer. Only the cars registered in north qualify. They say its a danger for the arms to rust and crack due to salt corrosion.

The spring won't hold anything in place, once you take the bolt from the shock, spring will push the axle lower, but the ball joint of the "boomerang" arm that holds the axle from moving left/right will hold the axle in place. There is no need to remove the muffler. Just put some jack stands under the axle, remove the shock bolt and raise the jeep from the frame slowly, till you have enough space to remove the arm. Some air ratchets will help a lot, you'll also need to remove the stabilizer bar from the lower arm (2 bolts on each arm).

If you mean the lower arms in the front, then you have no worries, all you need to do is to unbolt the lower ball joint, use a ball joint remover to push it out, take out the clevis bolt, unbolt the lower arm from the chassis. Just keep in mind you'll need new alignment if you do that (you'll modify the chamber and very little the toe).

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Sean, the spring will not hold the arm up, but the torsion of the sway bar (attached to the other side) will keep the arm from flopping too much. You will need to support it, though. I used a combination of rachet-straps on top and a small jack under the axle to position things when I did my lift (all hand tools). That should work for you, too.

Also, remember a shock doesn't move much on its own (unloaded). It doesn't force itself up or down, it dampens movement, so if you compress it, it resists you then mostly stays that way. Also, if you extend it, it resists you then mostly stays that way. Make sure when you unbolt it, it's roughly in the same position that you're going to want to re-attach it in. It's a huge pain to compress or extent the shock when not mounted to the vehicle. Use the leverage of the suspension to get it to the length you want BEFORE removing the mounting hardware.

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

I was able to get the arm off but I can not get the bushing out. How the heck do you get it out since you can't support it with a press????
For now I put everything back together and I might just buy the whole control arm with the bushings already in them.
Sean