The Correct way to change your TIMING BELT!

jeepdan · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 1:31 am

geordi wrote:

You've done 4, I've done 15+... And I always either maintain (if I don't do the water pump) or reset it to the timing mark on the inner cover.

I don't think the FSM has been right about a lot of things (lots of little errors) but this is a situation where doing this might not cure anything, but it won't hurt either.

I totally agree.
And whether it makes a difference or not,
I would never work on someone else's CRD and not reset the pulley with the inner cover mark as had been done at the factory. But that's just me.

flman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:47 am

OK lets see what VM has to say about timing their marine version of our engine? Hmm, I do not see any marks on the injection pump gear? :roll:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/196 ... 010_UK.pdf

And here is the entire manual if you want?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/196 ... 0_UK_M.pdf

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 9:23 am

jeepdan wrote:

Using common sense, I will follow the FSM over advice from an internet forum anyday.
But hey, what do I know, I have been using Mobil1 0w40 for 148,000 miles in my CRD :jester:

That's the point here. Lots of people telling and suggesting doing maintenance or mods on their CRD's. Most is bad information and dose more damage than good. Give them the correct information. If their choice to take short cuts, so be it.

FYI.... 114k using Mobil 1 0w-40 (Not Changing)
Best regards
KJJET

flman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:01 am

kjjet wrote:

jeepdan wrote:

Using common sense, I will follow the FSM over advice from an internet forum anyday.
But hey, what do I know, I have been using Mobil1 0w40 for 148,000 miles in my CRD :jester:

That's the point here. Lots of people telling and suggesting doing maintenance or mods on their CRD's. Most is bad information and dose more damage than good. Give them the correct information. If their choice to take short cuts, so be it.

FYI.... 114k using Mobil 1 0w-40 (Not Changing)
Best regards
KJJET

I must admit, I have followed so bad advice here as well. :ALONE:

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 2:05 pm

Without question LOSTJEEPS is the most helpful forum out there. I am on a VW and Explorer forum and the help you get there is nothing it comparison to Lost.

Here is the procedure per the Jeep manual:

Jeep Liberty CRD Timing Belt Replacement
Procedure (2.8l diesel)
Revised by KJJET
1. Remove cooling fan and shroud. *In order to remove them there is a few methods.
A. Remove the grill, bumper, inner grill and electric fan. Then remove the bolts holding the intercooler and radiator. Now with the intercooler and radiator pulled back the fan and shroud can be accessed. Remove the shroud intercooler and radiator then move on to removing the fan.
OR B. Remove the grill and gain access to the intercooler and radiator bolts and remove them. This will give you a inch or two to access the shroud and fan.
OR C. Cut you hands up and remove the fan and shroud without moving anything.

The fan assembly is best removed with a very large crescent wrench on the nut just behind the fan viscous coupling. Then hit the wrench in a counter clockwise direction with a small sledgehammer. It may help to spray with penetrating oil. Worst case, wedge something behind
the fan drive pulley to keep it from rotating and then use the sledge method.
2. Remove accessory drive belt.
3. Remove both idler pulley (right hand thread, 16 mm) (a), power steering pump (3 bolts that you get to by rotating the pulley, 10 mm) (b), accessory belt tensioner (c), cooling fan pulley and bracket( 4-13 mm bolts) (d), crankshaft pulley/damper (4-10 mm bolts, you may need to hold the pulley by the 21 mm center bolt) (e), and alternator (2-13 mm bolts on the front and 1-15 mm on the back side-note you will have to loosen the 2-13 mm bolts for the bracket that holds the alternator to the cylinder head) (f) .
4. Remove the front timing cover (7mm bolt x 17)
5. Remove both plugs in the camshaft cover (one on intake side behind alternator placement, one on exhaust side behind thermostat area). Remove the plugs with a 5mm hex.
6. Rotate the engine clockwise only with a 21mm socket on the front of the crankshaft until the crank timing mark is located at 90 degrees (3:00) and a 6mm hex key engages the hole in the flexplate/flywheel.
7. Inspect the two openings in the camshaft cover to see if the holes in the camshafts align. If so, install the two pins into the
respective camshaft. If not, remove the 6mm hex key and rotate the engine 360 degrees at the crankshaft and re-inspect. Note: this may take up to 3 rotations to get all three installed. Note: Be sure the Hex key is at a 90 degree angle
8. Loosen the timing belt tensioner and rotate it counterclockwise by hand until slack is sufficient to remove the belt from the pulley. Remove the old timing belt.
9. With a sprocket holding tool, Loosen both camshaft sprokets by rotating the bolt (17mm) counterclockwise. It is sufficient to have them loose; they do not need to be removed.
10. Install new idler pulleys: remove them by turning clockwise to loosen then counter clockwise to tighten. Tighten to 53N-m or 39 Ft Lbs. Loosely install a new belt tensioner.
11. Ensure that the high-pressure fuel pump pulley is oriented to the timing mark
and fit the new belt to the crankshaft pulley. Install a small vise grip at the crankshaft to hold the belt in place while installing the belt (not on the belt, just using the tip of the vice grip to hold the belt in the crank grove) start counter clockwise starting with the fuel pump, idler pulley, cam shaft sprockets, idler pulley, water pump and lastly over the newly installed timing belt tensioner.
12. With the new belt properly installed, tension the timing belt with the tensioner to the correct amount. If the proper handle isn’t available, the tensioner can be moved with two 3 mm hex keys. Rotate the tensioner until the proper gap on the pulley is achieved. Tighten the center fixing bolt to 30N-m or 22 Ft Lbs
13. With a sprocket holding tool, tighten both camshaft sprokets to 108N-m or 80 Ft-Lbs.
14. Check tensioner and reset proper tension as needed.
15. Remove the two camshaft pins and crankshaft hex key. Rotate the
Clockwise only 21mm socket wrench, 720 degrees, re-check the tensioner and reset proper tension as needed.
16. Reinstall the timing belt cover.
17. As needed install new accessory belt tensioner, idler pulleys and reinstall everything in steps 1 thru 3.

If your changing the water pump? There are naturally more steps but the installation of the timing belt will be the same.

Any questions just ask.
Good Luck
KJJET

_________________

flman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 6:09 pm

kjjet wrote:

OR C. Cut you hands up and remove the fan and shroud without moving anything.

_________________

Or C, use a pair of Channel lock BigAZZ pliers to hold the fan pulley in the area that is not occupied by the belt and turn the clutch nut with a crescent wrench. I never cut my hands doing this or had to remove the rad support and the rest of the parts?

jeepdan · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:51 pm

flman wrote:

kjjet wrote:

OR C. Cut you hands up and remove the fan and shroud without moving anything.

_________________

Or C, use a pair of Channel lock BigAZZ pliers to hold the fan pulley in the area that is not occupied by the belt and turn the clutch nut with a crescent wrench. I never cut my hands doing this or had to remove the rad support and the rest of the parts?

I never have either.
But, once removed, everyone should do their selves a big favor, and take the time to do the "two piece" fan shroud modification.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:20 am

I knew i was going to get some flack for adding C. at the last minute just to get a :ROTFL:

(at least i know people are reading it) I heard lots of you have removed the fan without displacing anything. What ever you need to do to get the fan and shroud out. Agreed.... after you make a mod to the fan shroud, no issues next time.

KJJET

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 1:22 pm

The shroud is a giant waste of plastic that was taken off-the-shelf and put into the CRD to keep people from hurting their hands on a running engine. Anyone that thinks that it helps move air when the fan is so far away from it... I have some land in the middle of the Everglades for you, or a Bridge in Brooklyn to sell you.

The best place I have found to cut the shroud is on the two mold lines just below the bolt tabs - one line on either side. Also notch it out from the edge to the tall mold line so it will clear the AC high pressure port, and then clip / cut back the top corner on the driver's side so it will clear the AC line that the high pressure port is on.

This turns the top part of the shroud into a hand safety, and the useless bottom can be thrown away.

As for removing the fan / shroud in the first place, Napa sells a big wrench (I believe it is a 34mm, but don't quote me on that) that is designed for the Chrysler fans. Flat steel with a 1/2" socket box in the end so you can use a wrench as a cheater. I use this wrench and a 13mm socket on the bolt that is under the pulley, at around the 4o'clock position to jam the pulley so I can hit the wrench with a mallet. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE FAN NUT on reassembly - you don't need to go more than spin-tight. It is continually being spun tight by the engine, and WILL NEVER spin-off. Overdoing it like the factory has, just makes the job harder.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 3:08 pm

Fan base nut is 36mm not 34mm, otherwise geordi is on point. I'd add that using a bit of anti-seize on the fan base threads makes future removal a snap; virtually no need to even use a wrench.

PermanentGrin · **Posted:** Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:48 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

If you do not have experience in changing overhead cam motor timing belts; this certainly is not one to try and learn on as it's requirements are just too precise to leave to chance and possibly make a mistake which could be costly in terms of money and / or engine performance down the road... :2cents:

I certainly wouldn't recommend rank amateurs undertake something this exacting, but this amateur mech-a-neck pulled it off quite well. It could be that I'm methodic in my work and exacting in my research. Twenty years in Field Artillery might have something to do with it: check and double check everything. Maybe I'm in the wrong line of work. I always did enjoy turning a wrench. I remember when I was in high school, one year we had to replace the camshaft, rocker arms, and pushrods on a DT-466 or a DT-436 (same block) in the tractor I ran.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:12 pm

PermanentGrin wrote:

Maybe I'm in the wrong line of work. I always did enjoy turning a wrench. I remember when I was in high school, one year we had to replace the camshaft, rocker arms, and pushrods on a DT-466 or a DT-436 (same block) in the tractor I ran.

Most people wouldn't be able to identify what rocker arms, pushrods, or camshafts were if they were sitting on a table - to say nothing of knowing where they went in a motor OR what a DT-466 powers.

6 years ago, that would have been me too. I'd say you qualify easily as "smarter than the average bear" where most people should very much NOT attempt the timing belt change if they are even moderately unsure about the design specifics of modern diesels.

FYI: This engine is very much UNLIKE modern diesels. Such a weird design.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:58 pm

Agreed... This VM engine is a different. Biggest difference is the intake/ valve cover that holds down the rockers?? What a terrible design. But the timing is easy after you understand the way its designed to done.

This CRD has a LOVE - HATE reaction for most of us. We all have to admit their fun when your not working on them.

KJJET

Beer_me · **Posted:** Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:18 pm

Since this seems to be the latest Timing Belt thread with life in it, I'll first say thanks for the bits of wisdom shared here.

As to actually doing the job, I was just coming off my first timing belt change ever, which was on my wife's petrol VW 1.8T. That was much simpler (SOHC) but was a confidence booster going into the CRD. I followed Sam's guide and video's initially but got to digging for more info and found this thread and a couple useful resources that deviate a bit from Sam's method and that worked perfectly for me. The singularly most helpful post was KJJET's in this thread a few posts up; you rock :rockon:

. I put the belt on according to the instructions and had absolutely no trouble slipping it over the tensioner for the last step. Second, I found this page http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html. I assume this guy is on here somewhere and I'd like to thank him for the tips on indexing the fuel pump (yeah, I read the posts about whether this was actually necessary) and hand turning the engine for a cycle (that's what I did) to make sure everything was timed correctly. I *just* completed this step and now need to button everything up, but that'll wait until tomorrow. It's supposed to be warmer by a few degrees so maybe my garage heater can keep up. Cheers!

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Jan 28, 2014 10:24 pm

Great to know you found the information helpful.

Doing it yourself is very satisfying. Doing it correctly? PRICELESS

Good Luck
KJJET

dkenny · **Posted:** Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:46 pm

the injector pump is timed..and has timing marks..its also keyed!
this is a old issue..for best preformance it must be timed..

I used to think that it didn't matter..but it does..

-dkenny

camo · **Posted:** Fri Jan 31, 2014 12:14 am

Do your own timing belt. Is not that bad at all, it is actually easier than changing one on a gasoline dual overhead cam Japanese engine with crank sensor (Nissan, Mitsubishi etc.) Just follow common advices from the forum and take things one step at the time. Don't let pseudo mechanics scare you out of the job; of course if you have trouble handling tools and following procedures then you might just want to stay away. As for the tools they can be made if you have workshop or you can just rent them from GDE. At the end you won't only save money but feel rewarded when you drive your little tractor.
:JEEPIN:

Squeeto · **Posted:** Fri Jan 31, 2014 12:54 pm

camo wrote:

As for the tools they can be made if you have workshop...

BTW, I like your cam sprocket locks in your sig pic. :mrgreen:

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Jan 31, 2014 4:36 pm

Squeeto wrote:

camo wrote:

As for the tools they can be made if you have workshop...

BTW, I like your cam sprocket locks in your sig pic. :mrgreen:

You may want to add a disclaimer. (Don't use wood to hold the sprockets) Use cam pins to hold the cams. The sprockets are loosened and should move when replacing a timing belt.

Best regards
KJJET

Squeeto · **Posted:** Fri Jan 31, 2014 5:18 pm

kjjet wrote:

Squeeto wrote:

camo wrote:

As for the tools they can be made if you have workshop...

BTW, I like your cam sprocket locks in your sig pic. :mrgreen:

You may want to add a disclaimer. (Don't use wood to hold the sprockets) Use cam pins to hold the cams. The sprockets are loosened and should move when replacing a timing belt.

Best regards
KJJET

True.
I will be using,
Miller timing pins VM.1052 and VM.1053:

Crank lock:

The Correct way to change your TIMING BELT!

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