The Correct way to change your TIMING BELT!

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Jan 31, 2014 6:16 pm

Nice...

I like using a 6mm hex key to alien the crank a 90 deg Past TDC. Using it you can move the crank to get the hex key at 90 degrees, assuring accuracy.

Good luck
KJJET

flman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 31, 2014 6:58 pm

kjjet wrote:

Nice...

I like using a 6mm hex key to alien the crank a 90 deg Past TDC. Using it you can move the crank to get the hex key at 90 degrees, assuring accuracy.

Good luck
KJJET

The VM tool for doing this was poorly implemented, it just has a serrated end on a threaded pin. Good luck turning it with you finger, I ended up putting vice grips on it. I second using the hex key like Keith at GDE pointed out is the easiest and best way.

camo · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 12:32 am

kjjet wrote:

Squeeto wrote:

camo wrote:

As for the tools they can be made if you have workshop...

BTW, I like your cam sprocket locks in your sig pic. :mrgreen:

You may want to add a disclaimer. (Don't use wood to hold the sprockets) Use cam pins to hold the cams. The sprockets are loosened and should move when replacing a timing belt.

Best regards
KJJET

They served their purpose really well. I didn't replaced the water pump that time so the cam sprockets didn't come off. The WP was replaced by the past owner 15k miles before that. He even gave me the old one and it had plenty of play.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 2:45 am

I didn't like the hex key method.
Because the hex key can slip in at a slight angle, I wasn't confident that I was perfectly at 90 deg.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 7:35 am

Squeeto wrote:

I didn't like the hex key method.
Because the hex key can slip in at a slight angle, I wasn't confident that I was perfectly at 90 deg.

Well, maybe I can get a bolt with the right threads and grind it to duplicate the VM pin that is in my kit?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 9:24 am

You probably could - But the flywheel has many holes that will "seem" right and not be, while the correct hole is very small and hard to hit. The threads in that coverplate are also open to the road filth and collect a massive amount of it. Even drowning the area in brake cleaner, I was never able to get the factory pin to turn in properly.

If you are doing the timing belt on an engine that drove itself to the timing job location, then once the top two pins line in, there is no need for a crank pin. You are in the correct location, just ensure the bolt holes in the crank hub are vertical and horizontal. If the engine is apart (such as the timing belt broke) then you have the injector hole open anyway because you are replacing the rockers. Use a feeler rod to the top of the piston, and when the rod comes to the top of the stroke, turn 90 degrees clockwise past that point and stop when the bolt holes line up vertical and horizontal. That is the correct point as well.

IF the crank is not connected to the cams, then there is no "intake" or "exhaust" timing. 90 ATDC is the same point every time the #1 cylinder comes to the top. This is why the flywheel has 2 tiny holes that will line up if you try to find them. But the feeler gauge or locking both cam pins is a much more secure method IMHO. Then just line up the bolt holes and continue.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 12:38 pm

geordi wrote:

You probably could - But the flywheel has many holes that will "seem" right and not be, while the correct hole is very small and hard to hit.

Exactly what I found.
The crank could be 180 off with both cam pins in and you find a hole that seems right.

Because of the length of the factory tool and the fact that it screws in straight, you know you have the crank locked perfectly.
Also, I found that I had to tap on the wrench to turn the crank just a hair to get the pin to go in nicely. Another reason I fear the sloppiness of the hex key method.

flman wrote:

Well, maybe I can get a bolt with the right threads and grind it to duplicate the VM pin that is in my kit?

See the picture I posted a few posts back. I welded a 10mm? Hex bolt on the end to turn. Goes in very easily with a ball head Allen.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 1:41 pm

Squeeto wrote:

flman wrote:

Well, maybe I can get a bolt with the right threads and grind it to duplicate the VM pin that is in my kit?

See the picture I posted a few posts back. I welded a 10mm? Hex bolt on the end to turn. Goes in very easily with a ball head Allen.

So that is the factory tool modified?

It looks like you made your own cam locks as well?

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The timing mark on the crank hub must be 90 degrees ATDC, in the 3 o'clock position when looking from in front of engine. I avoid the flywheel area altogether as it can be problematic and not fun to get to. Using the timing mark also prevents the crank from being 180 degrees out. The bolt holes on front hub in the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions are a good visual security measure to give peace of mind.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 2:49 pm

flman wrote:

So that is the factory tool modified?

It looks like you made your own cam locks as well?

All three are modified grade 8 bolts. No factory tools.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:17 pm

Keith, you were the one that clued me in to this fact: There is NO possibility of being 180 out if you are setting the piston with visual / feeler stick verification that the piston has crossed TDC. This is assuming that the cams are not connected to the crank (timing belt breakage). 90 ATDC is 90 ATDC no matter what, if the #1 piston has crossed TDC. No intake or exhaust at that point, because they aren't connected.

If the cams are connected to the crank (the timing belt is fine, just old / normal change interval) then IF both pins lock into their respective camshafts to the shoulders of the pin... THE CRANK IS CORRECT. There cannot be any 180 out if BOTH pins seat. If only ONE pin seats (usually the exhaust) and the other does not - THAT is 180 out.

So if your CRD drives itself to the timing belt job... Just rotate it by hand until both camshaft pins seat, (some wiggling is normal) and there you go - The crank is in the right spot, if the holes in the hub are at 3,6,9,12. Stripe a mark on the top so you know exactly where you are, and get to work.
If the holes aren't vertical / horizontal - Then your belt has shifted, and you might have other issues happening.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:35 pm

Squeeto wrote:

flman wrote:

So that is the factory tool modified?

It looks like you made your own cam locks as well?

All three are modified grade 8 bolts. No factory tools.

I would prolly do the same thing, but I picked up all 4 VM tool boxes on Ebay for $400, cant beat that.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2014 10:52 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The timing mark on the crank hub must be 90 degrees ATDC, in the 3 o'clock position when looking from in front of engine. I avoid the flywheel area altogether as it can be problematic and not fun to get to. Using the timing mark also prevents the crank from being 180 degrees out. The bolt holes on front hub in the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions are a good visual security measure to give peace of mind.

Exactly, that's the way I did it, but for safety and peace of mind, since I'm not a pro like Keith and others on this forum and it was also in the fsm, I also used the crank pin, which I had no issue screwing it in after pb blastering the hole. And if it's gunk in there, the right tap from a cheap harbor freight tap & die set would fix it in a heart beat. He crank hub holes is an excellent way to find the right timing for the engine.

Beer_me · **Posted:** Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:49 am

So this doesn't quite fall into the theme of this thread--The Correct Way--but I'm a product of my parents and tend to be too cheap to buy specialty tools so I kluge tools whenever possible. This is how I held my cam gear to torque to 80ft*lbs. It's a handle extension for a cheap jack. I used the existing holes and added bolts and nuts from my stock-pile of motorcycle hardware.

Nope, it ain't by the book but it did the job and the timing came out perfect. Wish the Crown thermostat housing would've come through in the same way, but that's a different thread.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:10 pm

Looks like luxury compared to mine :mrgreen:

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:31 pm

Believe it or not but I made all my own tools. But using them dose not keep from doing things correctly.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:10 am

geordi wrote:

You probably could - But the flywheel has many holes that will "seem" right and not be, while the correct hole is very small and hard to hit. The threads in that coverplate are also open to the road filth and collect a massive amount of it. Even drowning the area in brake cleaner, I was never able to get the factory pin to turn in properly.

This........so many times this.

tedder · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:19 pm **Posts:** 137

I just changed my TB on the wife's CRD. Didn't have as much luck as you guys. I got the TB changed and checked the timing after using GDE tools and everything seemed correct even turned the engine over several more times than required just to make sure. The engine didn't seem to run the same so I took it back in and reset the timing and what a difference ran great thought I had done good. Will not so fast as I was pulling out of the parking lot at work while accelerating everything went to hell in a hand basket. Towed it home. See my thread here "HELP!" for the rest of the story. The question is was it going out and I just happened to do the TB at the same time or did I screw it up?

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:41 pm

Sorry to say but, I think you were off a tooth. Easy to do. Follow the procedures in this post and you be assured its done right.

Questions? Just ask. PM me for a quicker response.

Good luck.
KJJET

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:16 pm

To the top! Just for you flman. :goink:

Love the new Jetta TDI. Nice to shift a manual trans again.

Good luck
KJJET

The Correct way to change your TIMING BELT!

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