The Correct way to change your TIMING BELT!

flman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 24, 2014 8:07 am

kjjet wrote:

To the top! Just for you flman. :goink:

Love the new Jetta TDI. Nice to shift a manual trans again.

Good luck
KJJET

You are already missing us, given a couple months you will either need counseling or be looking for another CRD. Cause nothing can replace a Libby CRD. :JEEPIN:

camo · **Posted:** Wed Feb 26, 2014 1:01 am

flman wrote:

kjjet wrote:

To the top! Just for you flman. :goink:

Love the new Jetta TDI. Nice to shift a manual trans again.

Good luck
KJJET

You are already missing us, given a couple months you will either need counseling or be looking for another CRD. Cause nothing can replace a Libby CRD. :JEEPIN:

x2
plus that explains the complaining you had. you were just feeding yourself reasons to get a new car. been there done that :mrgreen:

flman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 26, 2014 7:43 am

camo wrote:

flman wrote:

kjjet wrote:

To the top! Just for you flman. :goink:

Love the new Jetta TDI. Nice to shift a manual trans again.

Good luck
KJJET

You are already missing us, given a couple months you will either need counseling or be looking for another CRD. Cause nothing can replace a Libby CRD. :JEEPIN:

x2
plus that explains the complaining you had. you were just feeding yourself reasons to get a new car. been there done that :mrgreen:

Actually my LTD replaced a 98 TDI, my Sport replaced an 02 TDI. Life is good. :mrgreen:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 26, 2014 2:14 pm

Now, I haven't performed this belt change yet, but after reading this and the other timing belt threads, it seems obvious that fooling around with the crank pin/allen is a waste of time (if engine was running ok prior to starting this), because unless you moved the crank an entire tooth when the belt is off, then it doesn't matter. Does this sound right? I mean the cranks only link to the top end is that belt. So, as long as you don't go purposely turning the crank with the belt off, and you put the belt back on CCW, and snuggly/not so loose that you'd have an extra tooth in the slack, then that crank pin is a joke. Please smack me around if I'm wrong here :goink:

I tend to be hypervigilant on engine internals myself, but I'd like to help save people some time and frustration with the crank pin (including myself) by verifying my assumptions.

Thanks to all of you for refining this procedure! :rockon:

oh yeah, and for clarity, I was referring to all of that after the two cam pins are lined up and installed correctly :JEEPIN:

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Feb 26, 2014 6:49 pm

I'm not sure what you mean by fooling around with pins. You do need to insert a Pin or allen. And insert cam pins. Loosen cam sprockets. Just no moving of the crank is needed to get the belt on.

Follow the instructions word for word.

Good luck
KJJET

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:08 am

Sounds good, and thanks. I'll stick with the allen in the crank as well then :BINGO:

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:08 pm

To the top. Another PM..with broken rockers. Did not follow the instructions :banghead:

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:38 pm

Who? I had one today too.

SBrooks · **Joined:** Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:30 pm **Posts:** 85

KJJET and Geordi,

I've sent you a PM.

Steve

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Apr 08, 2014 11:52 pm

I sent you a reply. Trust the procedure, its by the book.

Geordi, Dose more than any other here. Trust him.

I'm out.

Good luck,
KJJET

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:52 am

To the top! Change the belt correctly.

Get to work on changing yours Flman. Danger! that its been in there so long.

flman · **Posted:** Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:09 pm

kjjet wrote:

To the top! Change the belt correctly.

Get to work on changing yours Flman. Danger! that its been in there so long.

Yeah, the Jeep still looks like new, I did not grasp the belt aging. It is on the agenda.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2014 12:07 pm

Again, for the record: I HAVE NOT FOLLOWED THIS PROCEDURE 8 TIMES NOW AND I HAVE NEVER HAD A DAMAGED ROCKER OR LIFTER, OR BEEN OFF A SINGLE TOOTH, OR HAD THE FUEL PUMP IMPROPERLY TIMED.

This procedure wasn't known to me when I did my first one, and I like and am more used to the way I do it now. (Thanks again SirSam)

It is more about paying attention, understanding mechanical systems, and being patient.

If you lack any of those, or have issues with them, please (for all of our sakes) follow this procedure to the letter.

End of Public Service Announcement

flman · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2014 2:48 pm

Hexus wrote:

Again, for the record: I HAVE NOT FOLLOWED THIS PROCEDURE 8 TIMES NOW AND I HAVE NEVER HAD A DAMAGED ROCKER OR LIFTER, OR BEEN OFF A SINGLE TOOTH, OR HAD THE FUEL PUMP IMPROPERLY TIMED.

This procedure wasn't known to me when I did my first one, and I like and am more used to the way I do it now. (Thanks again SirSam)

It is more about paying attention, understanding mechanical systems, and being patient.

If you lack any of those, or have issues with them, please (for all of our sakes) follow this procedure to the letter.

End of Public Service Announcement

I have never followed it either and even have the mark on my Sports injection pump in a different location. I followed the GDE method and another time I did the timing by painting white marks on the cogs, belt and new belt with no problems. :seuss:

lacabrera · **Posted:** Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:52 am

Hi crd common rail diesel. Timing for the fuel pump is not necessary unlike pre CRD. Lock the cams and crankshaft 90 degree after top dead centre and find that small hole in the fly wheel. ps its not a hole just a small dent in the flywheel Use the proper tools for this and the cams. Loosen the cam bolts (hold cam sprockets with suitable tool) don't rely on the cam shaft holding tool to loosen or tighten the bolts. Loosen belt tensioner and pull off the belt new one in reverse. The advantage this way you can remove the back plate to replace water pump. No need for marks of any sort? I have replaced belts several times on these engines got it down to about 2 hours now.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Aug 26, 2014 3:32 pm

I just did mine today, I only locked the cams, like Geordi says, the crank is not going to move just doing a timing belt. Got it done in about 3 hrs.

I agee, the injection pump timing is not needed, I have done it timed and not timed, and I feel no difference at all.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:14 am

flman wrote:

I just did mine today, I only locked the cams, like Geordi says, the crank is not going to move just doing a timing belt. Got it done in about 3 hrs.

I agee, the injection pump timing is not needed, I have done it timed and not timed, and I feel no difference at all.

Yes I agree the crankshaft will probably not move but on one case I found that the original belt was one tooth out of time (locked the two cams and the alignment of the crank was one tooth out) and not finding the alignment hole/ indent in the flywheel the new belt goes back on one tooth out. I think this was a very rare case maybe a previous owner/mechanic set it up wrong?

lacabrera · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:33 am

One thing I should mention if you intend on undoing the cam shaft bolts do not use just drill bits allen keys etc to lock the cams they will not lock the cams in the right place. when you remove the sprocket the cams have a slot on each that must face each other for correct timing. The problem is you can not see these slots when you replace the sprockets. GO AND BUY THE CORRECT TIMING TOOLS/PINS £20 on ebay worth every penny

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:59 am

There IS a small hole in the flywheel (there are actually 2 of them) that is possible to get the pin into, but it is bugger-all difficult. If the bolt holes of the crankshaft pulley are vertical and horizontal (looks like a +) and the cam pins go in - you are in the right spot. If the crank is 1 tooth out of vertical, after the belt is off, fix that. Just straighten it.

You are correct that the notch in the cams needs to face each other. The factory pins are the only things I suggest for this for the same reason - precision.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 12:53 pm

geordi wrote:

There IS a small hole in the flywheel (there are actually 2 of them) that is possible to get the pin into, but it is bugger-all difficult. If the bolt holes of the crankshaft pulley are vertical and horizontal (looks like a +) and the cam pins go in - you are in the right spot. If the crank is 1 tooth out of vertical, after the belt is off, fix that. Just straighten it.

You are correct that the notch in the cams needs to face each other. The factory pins are the only things I suggest for this for the same reason - precision.

Most cases I have worked on have been manuals not auto trans flywheel are different and have no holes just in dents partly drilled holes so even harder to locate hence why allen keys drill bits do not work to lock the crank. crd with manual are a rare breed sow I am led to believe in the states. The autos I have done in the past have replaced belt pulleys tensioner only so used the old method of marks etc..

The Correct way to change your TIMING BELT!

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