May have damaged something while boosting CRD...

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

Liberty CRD 2006 would not start in cold weather. (-28)
My brother boosted with Dodge Ram 5,7.
My Jeep started but and this is where we may have screwed up: My brother was too quick and disconnected the pos. cable from his truck before I had time to undo my neg. cable on my truck.

Problem now: Jeep will try to start but does not "fire-up"...

any thoughts ?

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

-28 is pretty cold to start. You may have popped the glow plug circuit. Check the relay.

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

Check the GP relay.

Will check that when the sun comes out !
Thank you !

Other suggestions ?

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Do you have it plugged in or is it in a location where you can't.

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

it is plugged in.
When turning the key, the Jeep sounds like it's in need of a boost but will not start.
The battery shows 12,83v before trying to start it and has 1 year of use.
I've tried to boost again,it turns-over but it's not ''igniting''

That's why I'm wondering if disconnecting the booster cables in the wrong sequence may have cause damage...

fuses...
fuel pump...

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:09 pm

Lol no, once you unplug a cable end, its an open circuit and your no longer giving the other battery a boost. A diesel engine needs some good revs to start. At -28 your battery is probably putting out maybe half the normal cranking amps. We have a caterpillar c16 (16 liter) that has (2) 1400 CCA batteries to start it. Once it gets below 45° it needs another 4000 CCA to get it to spin fast enough to light. I bet if it was +28° your jeep would start right up. I would also buy a battery warmer so that your battery is warmed up and ready when you are.

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

battery warmer is now on the ''to do list''. Thank you !

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

Well...

Changed the glow plug control module.
Inspected and swapped ASD relay.
Battery was recharged in the house.
I checked GP according to info found here and they are still within the 0.5 to 1.5 ohms.
Weather is now a little above 0.

Jeep 2,8 engine....nada !!
The engine turns but wont fire.

Reminder: the engine had started with boost but stopped instantly upon unplugging booster cable.

If someone has electrical schematics, that may me, please share...

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 3:27 pm

I did the exact same thing you did -10F..thought I fried the ECM... so I unplugged it for 2 minutes to reset it and it fired right up again as if nothing happened.

Also, use a hot air gun or hair dryer in the intake while someone else turns her over see if that helps.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 3:34 pm

racertracer wrote:

I did the exact same thing you did -10F..thought I fried the ECM... so I unplugged it for 2 minutes to reset it and it fired right up again as if nothing happened.

He said he charged the battery in the house so he's already done this.

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

Yes, the unplug/replug technique was used to no result...

I'm soon at the ''kicking-it till it start or die'' technique...

I've also tried to use my spare key just in case some chip or something may be in play but no success, it turns and does not ignite...

There must be a fuse-wire, link or starter module in play.
The Jeep has power all around but just not to start...

Quote:

Also, use a hot air gun or hair dryer in the intake while someone else turns her over see if that helps.

Will try anything at this point !!

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 4:06 pm

Detach the battery terminals and leave the thing sitting for a few hours.

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

racertracer wrote:

Detach the battery terminals and leave the thing sitting for a few hours.

Done. No result.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 4:40 pm

I am coming up with goose eggs.....

Charge the battery so that it has 13 and above volts.

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 7:35 pm

racertracer I thought you unplugged the ECM when you had this problem?

I would try disconnecting the battery and ECM for a wile. Always have the battery disconnected when you are unplugging and plugging the ECM.

Good luck
KJJET

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

Disconnecting battery then the ECM.

reconnect ECM then battery.

Will give it a try.
THX

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

Just to confirm, where is the ecm ? (picture appreciated)

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2014 2:17 pm

Sorry no pic. But its behind / right of the battery. It attaches to the drivers side fender with 2 10 mm bolts and slides in.

Easy stuff

Good Luck
KJJET

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

That's what I thought.

Done the disconnect/reconnect test.
And unless 2 hours of not being plugged is not enough, the engine will not fire. Just turn and turn and turn...

Oh, well... now considering the repair shop and hopefully a manageable bill...

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2014 3:17 pm

The computer obviously thinks most of the engine is ok, or it would not even allow the starter to turn. It is not (as in the past) a simple relay passing power to the starter.

The computer must pass all of its self checks before it will activate the relay and power the starter. So the computer is OK, and you don't have any airbag deployment codes stored that would throw the computer into a safety-stop mode.

We can assume for a moment that your engine IS actually turning, and the belt is intact. Diesel engines only need three things to fire: compression (from turning) air and fuel.

Air is the easy one, and comes from turning. So the real problem is fuel. Where is the fuel? Not in the cylinders, or you would have fire.

In order to know when to inject fuel, the ECU must know where the engine is in the cycle. It knows this based on 2 sensors. The camshaft sensor is on the top of the engine, behind the CCV. It is a magnet sensor. The crankshaft sensor is on the flywheel housing, below the turbo. It is also a magnet sensor. I do not know any reliable way to test either one, but since the camshaft sensor is easier to get to, I would try replacing that one first.

I hate to ask the obvious questions, but the fuel filter housing button is firm, yes? No air in the fuel head? No leak from the side drain being left open?

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May have damaged something while boosting CRD...

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