Well lets see what happens.

Friday, have amassed all the parts i think i need. I will take pictures to document cause this should be a Saturday half day deal.

I know that they aren't 100% needed but i come from an industry where every engine is kept warm at all times ready to start. The thought of running teen or negative teen oil to my turbo, valve-train and the rest of the engine isn't pleasant to me. Nor is angry clackity diesel sounds on start-up. Freedom from all extension cords is our cry!

They are nice heaters, I have one in the Sprinter that came factory installed. It is like a little oil burner, sound, smoke and all.

I doubt the oil is that thick that it will not sufficiently lube the engine.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

How much did it cost?

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat

Cold oil will still lube but the initial cold start is when most wear occurs so anything to help. Plus the idea of instant heat is nice too. I bought a new kit which was right at 1000$

The heater is mounted and heater hoses run. There was too much water dripping off for me to get under it for the fuel line so that will be tomorrow.

Ok so big thanks to lostFinn for turning me onto the webosto instructions for our chassis. they are in German and there are some differences but it was good guidance. Heater went in about the only spot i figured it could. just gotta move the fuse box which isn't as bad as it sounds as there is alot of extra wire that puts it in front of the battery.

The mods to the battery tray aren't quite as they are in the instructions. (euro instructions and may be for RHD vehicle and the abs pump may not be in the same spot) the abs pump/brake lines are in the way and that plastic is BRITTLE AS HELL. be forewarned. i broke a 2 of the 3 ears on the fuse box bracket wrestling the box into place. i have the right half and 1 tab holding mine but if you kept the tab on the right side and then the one towards the battery and then notched everything else out of the way of abs you could probably have the 2 tabs.



Here is the bracket i ended up with cause it was the material i had. its 16 gauge stainless which is just rigid enough. i would have rather done 3/32 aluminum but this will work. this bracket is different than the one pictured in the instructions as my jeep didnt have the bracket that the lower tab of the bracket in the instructions connected to. Easy enough to notch it and pinch it in the lower battery tray bolt. I will have a more detailed drawing of the bracket in the near future.



Fuse box relocated and heater mounted.



In there and heater lines run. waiting on fuel and wiring tomorrow. Got a late start and i was smoking a pork butt so kinda distracted. worked out for the better cause it melted all the ice out of it today so it wont rain on me tomorrow. Amazing how much ice builds up under there... Oh and the orange is Heat sleeve. since all the flow goes thru there on the way to the heater core i wanted to insulate it at least a tad. the same orange heat sleeve is on the exhaust pipe that exits in front of the sway bar. I dont have a muffler for it at this point and am not sure if i will spend the money on one.

Looks like a very clean install, good job! And I hear it only uses few ounces of fuel for a lot of hours of work, probably less than running the block heater for all that time. For those that go with dual batteries in the back, you can just use the original battery place to install the heater without relocating the fuse box. You'll probably curse a bit when you'll need to replace the headlight bulb :p

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Headlight bulb wont be that bad. To move the heater i need to disconnect the fuel line unplug the cables from the top and then 3 bolts to swing the heater and bracket out of the way. More pics coming the heater is in and working. 10 mins starting at 20 degrees ambient has the temp gauge at about 1/8 which means heat/defrost is working. And its not as loud as videos make them out to be even without the muffler.

Well, maybe you should put a heat exchanger on the oil pan and runs some heat to it as well. I am going to be the last guy in the world to worry about cold oil ruining an engine, I have never heard of it, and I doubt you could even turn the engine over if it ever got that thick.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

And if your gonna flame a thread you can not post here anymore.

Its not a new idea that initial start is where most ear occurs to an engine. Granted that the oil film left on engine parts after shutdown is capable of lubricating an engine on start. And a portion of why a vehicle cranks slower when it is very cold is the oil film on the parts. Another large portion is the fact that a battery doesn't deliver the same cranking power at low temps.

The heater brings an engine up to 170 degrees or so and in 10 min is capable of doing more than a block heater can in several hours at the same temperatures. The diesel vs electricity cost is probably close to a wash but the heater is much more effective. And also the no extension cord thing that i mentioned several times.

If the fact that your vehicle starts at very low temps after a bit of cranking and maybe clacky diesel sounds (Which is very high cylinder pressures and uncontrolled combustion) go for it. People have spent a lot more money on much more trivial things on vehicles so like your mother always said if you dont have anything nice to say dont say anything at all.


Anywayy. some more pictures coming soon. i have to flip a switch for now and give it 5 or 10 min but keyfob controlled relays are cheap enough so that will be in the future.

Hows the hot vs eco by the way flman? i have a teeny bit of shudder close to 60 if i try to get it on eco tune so i wont be doing that until i throw a new tc in there eventually.

Steve, I don't think anybody said that what you do is useless. Some may not find it worth, but at the end I always appreciate a person willing to share his thoughts and give good advice. What matters most is for you like what you do. I one appreciate you sharing your installation experience and thoughts and I agree that keeping your engine warm has definite benefits. It may not help as much folks from the warm south, but for people with a lot of driving in cold it's a definite benefit to see some good alternatives. Thanks for sharing.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I dont think FLMAN was being rude...just expressing an honest opinion.

I work in Northern Alberta...the average temp outside..from December to March is -30C...pretty close to that in "f"...we also ron webastos and proheats...

heres the kicker...the coolant stays warm..yes..but the oil...in the bottom of the pan...does not.

in the new Ford f550 service trucks I run. and some of the Isuzu heavy industry engines..when we install webastos...we get great engine coolant heat...but..a CEL (check engine light) because these engines also monitor oil temp...when theres a differential between the engine oil temp and the coolant temp...it triggers a CEL...

so...we run coolant heaters, along with oil pan heater pads...( or..on the large machines) we drill the oil pan and run a heater tube through the pan...that circulates the warmed coolant also through the oil. Also...You have to consider install height of these heaters/pumps, for preventing air and circulation issues, and we used to install these tee'd into the heater lines...but found running one side into an empty plug on the engine to the opposite side of the engine actually helps with circulation and warming of the engine...but I am dealing with an engine with an average size from 15litres to 24 + litres..and coolant capacities of 100 or more litres...

This along with running 0W40....all year round...makes things great...

I dont think there are to many People here who's moms should be putting pepper on their tongue for them not saying nice things...but...also speaking from experience...a pan pad is also a great investment...and needed for any of you ford guys with the new 6.7 thinking of doing this.

REGARDLESS...excellent investment and install...you will totally appreciate this in the cold months...they are pricey...and an awesome alternative if you dont mind running an extension cord is an inline 1500w heater...they also circulate and heat the coolant..and also work really well

And i understand that i am new to this forum and to this particular vehicle. But thruth be told i have been around the internets and spent plenty of time tinkering with vehicles. (rx7s were an early love) this has been a friendly forum for the most part but things get nasty sometimes. i probably jumped on the defensive there. next post should be the last pictures.

And yes vw im with you on the oil pan. Wisconsin isn't that savage on temps but i do have a small pad heater on the pan in case it gets that bad here or after the vehicle sits for a while. the pad heater honestly started the engine easier than the stock block heater at a lower wattage. Also a grill cover makes a huge difference to the engine keeping warm thru out the day as well as speeding up morning warm up (New t stat that's def not an issue.)

What's best with webasto is that if knock on wood you get strained somewhere, you got days of warmth, if you go with a blower.

Regarding Grille cover, definitely helps, but going with an electric fan (to replace the viscous) also helps a lot. Here in Cleveland, on - 10 the engine got warm and stayed like that even in city drive. Before e-fan, temperature dropped between 1/4 and 1/2 in city drive even on +10, This with a good thermostat. Can't say how's on - 30 because we had I believe only twice that cold here and I got the gasoline Cherokee those days.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Installation instructions in German

http://doc.webasto-russia.ru/Car/Jeep/C ... .8_d_D.pdf

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700

So I'm looking into acquiring the parts to do a similar install. One question I have to people much smarter than me. Is it possible to use the same coolant points as the EGR cooler used on the side of the block and on top by thermostat housing? I cannot find a reason why it wouldn't work unless there would be a coolant restriction due to thermostat being closed.

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2015 Passat TDI SE, 6 Speed, Candy White, Cornsilk Beige & Black Interior

05 KJ Sport 176k, Inferno Red, ORM, EHM, Samcos, Weeks Stage 1&2
Added courtesy floor lights, Cooper AT3's, Airtex In Tank Lift Pump
Gen2 fuel head, TB done @ 103000, T-Stat @ 120000
OME Lift

Contact me, car0430a:

I sent you details via e-mail of my Cold Weather Package for the Liberty CRD.

Best regards,

I'm thinking of one of these for a different use: heating my RV with radiant floor-circulation heat.

Is the thermostat adjustable at all? Does it have its own coolant pump?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

yes it does have a circulating pump , timer can be set (TIME ONLY ) no temp. setting . when its on it will go to its temperature and will maintained that temp. unit will turn on and off on its own and pump will work all the time , I'm guessing temperature is 60-70 celsius so for your RV and small auxiliary heater with blower fan should be good.

Geordi i forgot to tell you there is bunk heater ESPAR OR WEBASTO for your needs i have it in my big truck check that out it works good, only blows out warm air