Has anyone replaced the standard bleeder valve on the OEM fuel head? I was interested in tossing on a speed bleeder the next time I switch out my fuel filter. Shouldn't it make bleeding the air out of the system that much easier as it acts as a one-way valve allowing (brake) fluid out, and not allowing anymore air back in.

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.

I know this is not answering your question but with a lift pump, you won't care about that bleeder at all since you will let the pump do the priming.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I concur that a lift pump makes things easy. Either no bleeding is need or if it is simply open the bleeder and trigger the pump.

That said a Speed Bleeder fitting, assuming the threads can be matched, would likely accomplish the same thing as the bleeder on the filter head is essentially the same as a brake bleeder.

However, that fitting screws into a filter head that's aluminum or some other soft metal and over time the bleeder threads can strip out at the cost of ca. $100 for a new head unit although it does come with a filter. Some years back one could obtain a bleeder kit that appears to consist of a brass fitting that replaces the bleeder screw and a "T" handle fitting, which accommodated a fitting for a vinyl tube. Pump primer, crack "T" handle, watch bubbles/fuel go into catch cup, close "T" handle, repeat as needed. I suspect the parts for that fitting are common plumbing items whose total cost is likely under $10 and have sent an email to the company that I think was the original seller asking what those parts were.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I had an issue with my stock bleeder valve breaking on me..I forget exactly what happened but I believe the bleeder itself stripped out, when I was having issues with air getting into my filter head. I ended up replacing it with a brass needle valve..think it's a 1/8 not thread, but I could be wrong...It may have been bigger, it's been a while. Between the needle valve and the air text pump I installed I haven't had any issues at all with air in the filter head. With the needle valve I can just crack the needle if I ever need to bleed it and tighten it up sans wrench.

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96 Dodge Ram 3500, 4x4 5 spd manual 12v Cummins, compound turbos, maxspool cam, ATS manifold, DDP injectors, Mahle pistons, ARP headstuds, DD3600, 5kgsk, and some more stuff.
06 Jeep Liberty CRD, EHM, GDE FTEco Tune.