65Corvair's Head Gasket Replacement

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:19 am

I will be replacing the head gasket for my Jeep, This thread will be updated everyday as I make progress.

I started last night on the tear down, worked on it for about 2 hours. Here is what I have removed so far:
- Brush guard and lights
- Grille
- Battery
- Air box and all CAC hoses
- Fan and Shroud
- Serpentine belt, fan mount, lifting hook, and Idlers (Left hand threads)
- I have removed the bolts from the crank pulley but it is being a bit stubborn and will not come off. I read on here to try some penetrating oil on it and to tap it lightly. But you must be careful not to hit the radiator.
- I am having difficulty with removing the bolts power steering pump pulley. Any Ideas? I may try and use the serpentine belt to hold it like a strap wrench somehow.

The saga will continue on tonight...

bugnout · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:32 am

I just did this job, let me know if you need any help.

Scott

flman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:26 pm

65Corvair wrote:

I will be replacing the head gasket for my Jeep, This thread will be updated everyday as I make progress.

I started last night on the tear down, worked on it for about 2 hours. Here is what I have removed so far:
- Brush guard and lights
- Grille
- Battery
- Air box and all CAC hoses
- Fan and Shroud
- Serpentine belt, fan mount, lifting hook, and Idlers (Left hand threads)
- I have removed the bolts from the crank pulley but it is being a bit stubborn and will not come off. I read on here to try some penetrating oil on it and to tap it lightly. But you must be careful not to hit the radiator.
- I am having difficulty with removing the bolts power steering pump pulley. Any Ideas? I may try and use the serpentine belt to hold it like a strap wrench somehow.

The saga will continue on tonight...

You do not remove the PS pump pulley, you put a socket through the holes of the pulley to drop the pump out of the way. I think a 10MM deep wall socket works fine?

jeepdan · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2014 8:14 pm

flman wrote:

65Corvair wrote:

I will be replacing the head gasket for my Jeep, This thread will be updated everyday as I make progress.

I started last night on the tear down, worked on it for about 2 hours. Here is what I have removed so far:
- Brush guard and lights
- Grille
- Battery
- Air box and all CAC hoses
- Fan and Shroud
- Serpentine belt, fan mount, lifting hook, and Idlers (Left hand threads)
- I have removed the bolts from the crank pulley but it is being a bit stubborn and will not come off. I read on here to try some penetrating oil on it and to tap it lightly. But you must be careful not to hit the radiator.
- I am having difficulty with removing the bolts power steering pump pulley. Any Ideas? I may try and use the serpentine belt to hold it like a strap wrench somehow.

The saga will continue on tonight...

You do not remove the PS pump pulley, you put a socket through the holes of the pulley to drop the pump out of the way. I think a 10MM deep wall socket works fine?

I would think just removing the pulley would be a whole lot easier.
Stick a 3/8" extension through one of the pully holes to keep the pully from moving. Works fine. :wink:

Yes, don't forget a thick piece of cardboard to protect the radiator.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 1:27 am

Some gentle taps of the hammer knocked the crank pulley loose.

I used strap wrench and an old serpentine belt to hold the power steering pulley to remove the bolts, it worked really well.

More parts removed tonight.
- Crank pulley
- Power steering pump pulley
- Serpentine Belt tensioner
- Alternator and alternator bracket that attaches to the intake
- Coolant drained
- Thermostat and all coolant lines that connect to it
- Timing belt cover
- Intake and exhaust timing pin covers were removed with vice grips (Already stripped by previous timing belt install, will be replaced)
- Did a test fit of Sealey SV777 on cam gears (you can see my radiator cardboard in the bottom) It seems to work good, when I break the sprockets loose I will know how it works for sure.

flman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:21 am

jeepdan wrote:

I would think just removing the pulley would be a whole lot easier.
Stick a 3/8" extension through one of the pully holes to keep the pully from moving. Works fine. :wink:

Yes, don't forget a thick piece of cardboard to protect the radiator.

Removing 4 bolts and putting 4 bolts back together and holding the pulley to tighten and loosen 2x is easier then 3 bolts that you do not need to hold any thing?

OK? :roll:

How many hours would the OP have saved if he just did the 3 bolts?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 12:13 pm

Does anyone know the part number for this gasket for the turbo oil drain? I could not find a part number in the parts fiche, and I can always cut one out of bulk gasket material too.
Looks about like:

flman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 12:37 pm

65Corvair wrote:

Does anyone know the part number for this gasket for the turbo oil drain? I could not find a part number in the parts fiche, and I can always cut one out of bulk gasket material too.
Looks about like:

I am not quite sure, but all I had to remove was the banjo bolt? Did you check ID parts?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 1:25 pm

You can get the gasket with a new drain tube, but I cannot find the gasket itself.
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3208
I plan on removing the turbo from the exhaust manifold, then pull the exhaust manifold off the head, once the head is out of the jeep.
From when I replaced my turbo before, I have noticed that the copper crush washers for the oil feed leak ever so slightly, they will also get replaced.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:01 pm

flman wrote:

jeepdan wrote:

I would think just removing the pulley would be a whole lot easier.
Stick a 3/8" extension through one of the pully holes to keep the pully from moving. Works fine. :wink:

Yes, don't forget a thick piece of cardboard to protect the radiator.

Removing 4 bolts and putting 4 bolts back together and holding the pulley to tighten and loosen 2x is easier then 3 bolts that you do not need to hold any thing?

OK? :roll:

How many hours would the OP have saved if he just did the 3 bolts?

I read this through about four times, :jester:

and you still lost me.

Seriously, it's easy to just remove and replace the pully.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:40 pm

65Corvair wrote:

Does anyone know the part number for this gasket for the turbo oil drain? I could not find a part number in the parts fiche, and I can always cut one out of bulk gasket material too.
Looks about like:

Is it this?

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=3918

flman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:04 pm

jeepdan wrote:

flman wrote:

jeepdan wrote:

I would think just removing the pulley would be a whole lot easier.
Stick a 3/8" extension through one of the pully holes to keep the pully from moving. Works fine. :wink:

Yes, don't forget a thick piece of cardboard to protect the radiator.

Removing 4 bolts and putting 4 bolts back together and holding the pulley to tighten and loosen 2x is easier then 3 bolts that you do not need to hold any thing?

OK? :roll:

How many hours would the OP have saved if he just did the 3 bolts?

I read this through about four times, :jester:

and you still lost me.

Seriously, it's easy to just remove and replace the pully.

What ever, you get out you 10 MM stick it in the hole in the pulley, meanwhile I am loosening the first bolt behind the pulley with my 10 MM and you are starting on your first pully bolt using one hand to hold the 10 MM and another on the pulley bolt. Sounds like you are just trying to start a pissing contest to me? Out of respect for 65Corvair, who is looking for guidance rather then a flame fest. I am going to let you have the last go at your contest, that way you can claim victory too. :roll:

flman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:06 pm

Mike92104 wrote:

65Corvair wrote:

Does anyone know the part number for this gasket for the turbo oil drain? I could not find a part number in the parts fiche, and I can always cut one out of bulk gasket material too.
Looks about like:

Is it this?

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=3918

It might be too late now, I would have called them, but maybe you can send Corey a pm?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 12:53 am

I contacted idparts, that is the gasket i was looking for. I also stopped the dealer and got this part number from them 4796007AB.

Tonight didn't feel like much progress, but I did get the turbo off and, the feed and return lines out. One nut wanted to be stubborn and took the exhaust manifold stud out with it. I will get the nut off and reinstall the stud with some thread locker to hold it for installation. (it will probably burn away eventually)
I removed my skid plates as well.

Here is a picture of my tensioner, it looks way out of adjustment, good thing all of this is getting replaced.

Also, does the crank locking pin go where the red arrow is pointing? I could not get my sealey locking pin to go in because it was hitting on the blue line. I will try to grind some of my tool away to fit if this is the correct hole.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 4:48 am

Yes. That is where it goes. You can also use a 6mm Allen in lieu of the sealy tool.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:17 am

The TB tensioner does relax over time; how much I don't know and did not notice when I was involved in several TB jobs.

The 6mm allen key trick is an accepted method and is covered in the 05 factory service manual. FYI if you use the allen key I found that you can insert it in the hole "off axis" a bit and tap around the flywheel to make sure/confirm you are inserting it into a small hole not one of the larger cut outs.

flman · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:21 am

papaindigo wrote:

The TB tensioner does relax over time; how much I don't know and did not notice when I was involved in several TB jobs.

The 6mm allen key trick is an accepted method and is covered in the 05 factory service manual. FYI if you use the allen key I found that you can insert it in the hole "off axis" a bit and tap around the flywheel to make sure/confirm you are inserting it into a small hole not one of the larger cut outs.

Right, and the mark at 3 o'clock on the front of crankshaft should also take away any doubt that everything is lined up, for the insertion of your locking pin.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:42 am

One other bit of advice that may or may not be covered in the guides, after you get your new timing belt on and tensioned, rotate the engine by hand to bring everything back to where you started, then retension it. Both of the TBs I did the tensioner relaxed a bit once the tension was distributed by the rotations. I wonder if some of the ones that jumped a tooth shortly after the TB job were due to this.

Here are my notes on that step:

Rotate the engine 720 degrees (two revolutions) and verify that the cams line up. Rotate 360 degrees further (one revolution) and verify that the injection pump marks line up. Rotate 1080 degrees (three revolutions) and verify that all marks line up (both cams, injection pump, and crank should all be back in original positions.)

flman · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:49 am

Here is the procedure I follow for timing belt, work smarter not harder and KISS. It should have all the pics you need as well.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/19672761/timing-belt-installation-rev3-pdf-716k.pdf

I used these pics to help me to see the things I could not see during head removal. Thanks to the member that posted the link.

https://secure.flickr.com/photos/68442076@N02/sets/72157629389449367/

bugnout · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:40 am

65Corvair wrote:

Also, does the crank locking pin go where the red arrow is pointing? I could not get my sealey locking pin to go in because it was hitting on the blue line. I will try to grind some of my tool away to fit if this is the correct hole.

Make sure your using the right tool. There are two of them in the sealy kit. (guess how i know)

65Corvair's Head Gasket Replacement

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