Jeep with air in fuel !!!

Touf1973 · **Joined:** Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:24 pm **Posts:** 36

Hi guys quick up date i fixed the leaking bleeding nipple finally with a cheap o ring between the nipple and the fuel head still waiting for jeep to get back to me why a new fuel head is leaking they are playing dumb saying it's never happened before mind you this is the second one they have given me that was leaking in the same place anyway fixed now so just hoping the o ring holds up thanks to everyone for there help

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:39 pm

Hey Jeff, papaindigo provided, as usually, more than enough info. I have a Kennedy for the only reason of being centrifugal, if it fails, will still allow fuel to go through. Honestly, I didn't need it, but it's nice to have.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Apr 03, 2014 9:43 am

thermorex does make a good point. If you do add a pump, in tank or in line, it must be one that will allow fuel to flow even if the pump dies. Kennedy does this and so does the Facet 40109 and I'm pretty sure the same can be said for the in tank pump option.

crdjoe · **Posted:** Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:31 pm

I have a 2005 Jeep CRD and the air problem and fuel lag when stopped it is common also its common in other vehicles one of the GM pickups had a diesel and no pump in the tank this person said it annoyed him as well. I pulled the filter off the crd one day and noticed the air pocket at the top, the filter pulls pretty much from the top area. Solution I ordered the new filter head because Lost Jeeps said I should fine but I disassembled the new unit when to lowes bought 2" of brass tubing threaded, pipe tapped the fuel pickup area inside the middle of the filter and the bottom of the filter head put it together with aviation permatex, ( this is important when disassembling there is a hard epoxy like sealer on the threading holding the head assembly together this has to all be removed and I used aviation permatex to reassemble you don't want a piece of that epoxy getting into your fuel pump) after I put it on and bleed it I took it out for a test drive passing from 35 to freeway speed with no lag and greatly improved I did this almost 3 years ago and no problems. The fuel pickup is now extended into the middle of the filter which proably is better. It worked for me! Aviation permatex seals just about anything and stays pliable :JEEPIN:

Touf1973 · **Joined:** Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:24 pm **Posts:** 36

Guys after some help could anyone tell me what's needed to replace the 2 quick connects at the tank what size hoses will I need and how long only have the one car and once I drop the tank can't get to the shop to get anything thanks very much in advance

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 7:19 am

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/kennedy.htm mentions a 3/8" fuel line and hose (hose ID I presume) so off hand I'd get 2-3 feet, probably more than you need, of marine grade hose that meets SAE J1527 type A1-15 marine (USCG) specs or ISO 7840 Type A-1 such as Shields Series 368 from West Marine or other supply place. You do not want to use lower grade hoses as they WILL eventually crack and the cost difference, while steep, is not that much given the amount of hose needed. You will also need at least 4 appropriately sized stainless steel hose clamps.

If I understand past posts correctly there are 2 lines between the engine bay and the tank; the supply line and the return line. IIRC the supply line is the larger of the 2 and of course you can check that out by tracing the fuel filter head supply line back to the tank. You do not have to replace the quick disconnects on the return line althoughy you can if desired but I cannot give you its size.

You might find this http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/ article helpful

Touf1973 · **Joined:** Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:24 pm **Posts:** 36

Thanks pap you were spot on with the hose sizes changed the two connections today wasn't to bad struggled most with the filler hose but finally got there was going to fit a facet fuel pump under there so I ran the wire under there while I had it out would you know how they cut them steel fuel lines without crushing them I stopped at that they looked to tuff for a pair of pliers so I'll wait till I work something out before I tackle the pump the facet 47109 cost $114 Aussie dollars but looks like a good pump once again thanks mate

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:00 am

You should be able to carefully do the cut with a fine tooth hacksaw (file the ends smooth and use a "Q" tip to clean any shavings out of the line although the filter will easily catch them)

I'd use a Facet 40109. Looks like you can get one online for a bit under Aussie 100

Touf1973 · **Joined:** Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:24 pm **Posts:** 36

Finally sorted the leaking bleeding was leaking at the thread received a Stahlbus bleeder valve today and put it straight on seems great no more leaking at the thread and easy to bleed one way valve if anyone interested part no#sb-110421 bleeder valve thread of the valve is m10-1.25-16mm fits nice

Jeep with air in fuel !!!

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