Has anyone taken this off before. Just trying to get mine off to replace the crank seal and can't get the bolt out. I have an impact but it doesn't seam to be getting it. What's the factory torque on these. I have also tried both clockwise and counter clock wise but no movement.

You mean the balancer is still on? It's only held by the four small bolts, and some rust. A mallet tapping around the face of the balancer will free it up. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you though.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Sorry. I have the 4 bolts off but need to get the large bolt behind the balancer off. I'm replacing the front crank seal.

As CAT said, pulley is held on by 4 small bolts. Tap carefully. Also, front main seal failure is VERY rare. I would try to determine cause of failure before reassembly. Rear mains often leak because of excessive crankcase pressure. This is corrected by using the "EHM"(see NOOB guide). If your rear is not leaking, you have a bigger problem.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Ya I have the pulley off but to get to the crank seal I need to get the lower timing belt pulley off. It's the pulley that is driven buy the crankshaft. It has one bolt in the center that needs to come off to take the pulley off. This is the bolt that I'm having a problem getting. Once I have the bolt out I can remove the pulley and the small cover that hides the front crank seal. I was wondering what the factory torque is on this bolt and if it is counter clockwise to remove or clockwise. I'm not sure.

In the 05 FSM there is reference to the "Crankshaft hub retaining bolt" and a picture, see pgs 9-216-217 and both the 05 and 06 FSMs say that bolt is left hand thread. 05 FSM pg 9-231 and the associated illustration says torque is 203 ft. lbs and the 06 FSM sort of maybe seems to say the same thing BUT and it's a big BUT the terms used to reference the nut are different and the Nm figures that the 2 FSMs say = 203 ft lbs are not the same .

I know for a fact that there are several places where the FSMs botched metric to US conversions in one direction or the other so all I'll say is a) I don't know what the correct value is (try an email to Sir Sam, Keith at GDE, and MrMopar64 as one or more of them may know) and b) 203 ft lbs does not "sound" unreasonable if for no other reason than that's very close to the torque on the single flywheel nut on an old VW Beetle engine BUT that's holding the flywheel in place when the clutch engages as opposed to just holding the base plate onto which the timing belt pulley bolts in place on the CRD (seems to me the latter would need less torque).

About as far out on a limb as I'll go for someone else's engine.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you for the info. I will have a look. This helps a lot!!

Yup, page 4158 of the 2006 shop manual

NOTE: Crankshaft hub retaining bolt has left hand thread.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, SAMCO CAC Hoses, GDE Eco Tune

FWIW...Some of the crankshaft bolts I removed have required a 3/4" drive impact. My 1/2" drive impact just didn't have the cajones.

I've tightened some of those old-school VW flywheel nuts with a 4' long, 1" drive torque wrench. Fun stuff!

Billy

For whoever needs a good impact without the need of the high cfm compressor, Milwaukee has a 3/4 drive one, under 300, with m18 battery. Max torque is 1150 lbs/ft, which I think would loose any bold in our crds. Home Depot online sells it also.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Thank you everyone. I have not had a chance to got back to removing it but thanks for replying to me. I will let you know how I make out

Well I got the 3/4 inch impact and rattled the bolt out. It is left hand thread. The cover that is behind the timing belt pulley on the crank is sealed on with rtv silicon or something. It should be dry in behind this cover right? I have oil all over the inside. I was thinking that it was the crank seal but I didn't know that there was an oil pump ( I think it is an oil pump) in there. So could the oil be coming from the pump?? I can't start the motor to tell where it's leaking.

Mine was wet behind that cover, and the crank seal is there, so I think that is normal.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, SAMCO CAC Hoses, GDE Eco Tune