My CRD had a bad decoupler when I bought it. I immediately replaced the alternator/decoupler together with a replacement from Advance Auto (lifetime warranty). I also replaced all the idler pulleys and the serpentine belt while I was at it. Right at 20,000 miles later, another bad decoupler. It has a little wobble, rattles, and the front of the pulley is covered in red dust. All typical signs. Advance Auto was great about getting me a replacement under warranty (alternator w/decoupler). My question is...has anyone else had this short of a service life out of a decoupler? That's only a little over a years worth of driving for me. Luckily, the alternator is easy to replace on these.

Billy

I bought the same one from Advance Auto last year and recently it also failed on me. I brought it back to advance auto and it was replaced under warranty.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Hmmm...interesting. How many miles did you have on yours when it went bad?

Mine, from advance auto (think was a tough one "brand"), failed, but the decoupler was in good shape, the diodes I think took a plunge since the lights were flickering. Took out the decoupler and threw it in my old original alternator, use the advance auto as core for an Autozone one, hoping I'll have more luck to be rebuilt by a different company. Apparently tough one isn't tougher than any cheap Chinese knockout... The tough one worked fine for about 20k miles

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I bought a new OEM alternator when my decoupler went bad at around 85K miles. Didn't want to mess with Chinese rebuilt stuff.

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2006 CRD Limited Dk Khaki
InMotion S-II, GDE TCM, Cummins Lift Pump, Mishimoto CAC hoses
Cooper Discoverer ATP LT245/75, Rola roof basket, JCR S3 sliders
OME lift+JBA UCA's, custom front hitch receiver, Mile Marker winch
All J Products rear cargo shelf
Sips biodiesel as if it were 12 y/o Scotch

No need use a big box auto parts store for China rebuilt.

google maniac electric for USA rebuilt alternator and decoupler.

I replaced the first decoupler at about 90 thousand miles and then the whole alternator at just over 200 thousand miles. Only the decoupler was bad the second time, but I already had purchased the new factory alternator.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, SAMCO CAC Hoses, GDE Eco Tune

My original decoupler lasted about 100,000 miles. Alternator was fine, decoupler was shot. It looks like I'll need to go another route (OEM or USA made) when I get tired of changing out the Chinese alternators every 20,000 miles under warranty.

Billy

I went to pick up my replacement alternator yesterday. Advance Auto put a Carquest alternator on the bench and said "Here ya go." I said "Ummmm??". Advance had shipped my alternator to the wrong store, so they ran to Carquest and picked one up. They proceeded to tell me Advance Auto bought Carquest and that's why I had the Carquest part. So...I get to try a different rebuilt Chinese alternator. Maybe this one will last longer than 20,000 miles.?? I did verify, the Advance alternator was their "Tough One" brand. All is running fine once again. Thanks for all the feedback.

Billy

Me too. My coupler was getting wonky at 125-130K miles, but still worked. Alt crapped out at about 135K. Just got the replacement from the Jeep dealership so I wouldn't have to muck about with it again.

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"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

My first decoupler went at about 50K miles. When I replaced it the dealer sold me a plastic cap with it. That one has been on there for 85K miles with no issues. I don't know whether the plastic cap helps keep dirt out or is just aesthetic. The part number for the cap was 53013559-AA.

Do the aftermarket alternators come with a cap on the decoupler?

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2006 CRD Limited
SEGR Mod
Saikou Michi Condenser -- Deleted
Samco Hose Kit
Fumoto 102
Etecno1 GX3123 Steel 7V Glow Plugs
GDE FT Eco and Hot Tunes
JBA 4.5 UCAs
OME Lift

Both of the replacements I got had the plastic cover. Didn't help the first one. We'll see on the second.

Mine has failed twice in 6 months (today was the 2nd time). I just installed an upgraded pulley from Litens (PN 920834 available from Advanced Auto at $78) that is internally greased. It works great so far, but of course, I just put it in. I contacted Litens a while back when the original type failed the first time, below is the email I received from their engineer Allen Steadman
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I did find an updated pulley that I believe would work for you. It is the 920834. The pulley is 2.5mm smaller diameter, so that is good and possibly bad. Good that you get the alternator spinning faster at idle and that will give you more alternator output at idle. The only drawback is you will need to check to see if the belt fits properly. I believe that it will. Worst case if your belt has stretched a bit over time, you may need to get a slightly shorter belt, but I'll be honest I really don't think it will be needed.

The 920834 OAD is a grease filled OAD and has a different style cap. This OAD also has internal upgrades that provide for protection for the lugging and rough running of the engine (your driving style). I would still try to change your driving style a bit, these OADs (and your entire engine for that matter) can only take so much sub idle vibration abuse.

The 920834 is available at advance auto for $78 (funny the 920720 is $120!!!) . I checked the website yesterday for you. They actually have a sale right now of 15% off and a $25 gift card for any purchase online above $50. I believe you would qualify for that. See Advance link below.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... pling-(oad)-pulley--original-equipment-quality-litens_10150692-p?isAllVehicle=false&showTitle=&vehicleIdFromReq=303646&vehicleIdSearch=303646

Also, have a look at these 3 videos that I made on your very CRD application. They are on youtube. The CRD application was chosen as it has a very easy alternator to work on and video!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maK7UkL13YY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOtW0Xx79cQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzpzj9kuw6k

Hope this helps, If everything works well for you, then you can tell all your CRD Jeep buddies about the upgrade. Keep me posted on how it goes for you. Maybe send me a short video clip of the engine starting up and the engine running with the new pulley on the alt. That would be cool for me to see.

Al Steadman.

My original decoupler died ON MOTHER'S DAY three years ago with us all in the car, an hour away from home. It had about 100k miles on it. I took the alternator to a local rebuilder, he said the alternator itself was fine, but the decoupler was bad & that he didn't have one & that they were expensive. He told me that he could put a solid pulley on off an old GM on it and that it should be close enough. It's been on there over three years now & 50K miles.

Hearing here how they keep failing, I'm glad that's one thing I don't have to worry about now. You might want to look into a solid pulley.

George

The "problem" with a solid pulley: the crd alternator doesn't charge all the time. The small wire that gets in it and "excites" the alternator to produce electricity would be alternately on/off depending on the consumers and electric need. The crd has a clutch to help mitigating those on/off start-stop shocks, at least in theory. Otherwise, all shock resulted from those harsh alternator on/off (since there is no "clutch" pulley anymore) would go in the tensioner and other pulleys. Other than that, it should have no issues. Old school car alternators were always on, and they didn't need such a pulley.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Essentially when the decoupler pulley fails, it either slips, or locks-up. If it locks up, it then behaves like a solid pulley, and the belt tensioner will be bouncing wildly when the engine is idling. When mine recently locked-up, not only did things sound terrible, but the belt would chirp on the AC pulley with the AC on.

Yep...both of mine locked up & got a little wobbly. One more wobbly than the other. I guess I've been lucky in regards to that.??