New engine break in period???????? Car now has no smoke???

TFOUR · **Joined:** Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:00 pm **Posts:** 2

So after two months and about a repair a week I finally got the 2005 Jeep Liberty Back. Let me preface by saying this car we have only had for 6 months and it is our first one. The car came with a Ford repair warranty and it drove fine the entire time we had it except that it would throw codes and smoke. I did not feel that the car was underpowered. So they finally checked the compression and found out that it was half of what it was supposed to be in all four cylinders. What led them to find this was that the tech said that it had excessive blow by. In my research a lot of people had stated that this was normal. When they pulled the motor you could see the rings when the piston was bottomed out.

So fast forward it now has a remanufactured block and heads from Chrysler with a 3 year warranty. Initial impression is that the car does not smoke at all and it has even more power than before. Problem is no one from the dealership has any idea about the break in period or how it needs to be performed.
Does anyone have any clue on how this should be performed or what the reccomendations are??

Also do you think that there are more jeeps rolling around with compression issues than we realize that just seem to smoke more than usual. The technician said all evidence of any blow by is gone. If they had no clue about break in how many other Jeeps did not get broken in properly?

I am aware of all the issues with the car and am planning on doing some of the mods when the car is out of the ford warranty, in a couple of months. The codes that it were tripping were mostly related to MAF sensor or EGR codes.

woodtick · **Posted:** Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:43 pm

That would be a good question forKieth @ GDE.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

VM hot tested every engine at the assembly plant. The test was about 20 minutes or so and included at least one full load pull. After a rebuild, we typically warm up the engine with normal driving and then do a few full load accels. This supposedly helps 'set the rings'. The high gas pressure helps push the compression ring outward on the cylinder wall and should minimize the potential for blow-by.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

All you need to know for breaking in your engine is: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm <---do only on a warmed up engine! Afterwords drive it normally except for first 1000 miles or do DO NOT USE cruise control and do not maintain a constant engine speed/and or load... Been following this type of break in before it was published on internet or 30 years and 32 vehicles and NEVER had issue with oil consumption or excessive blowby. Do a heavy acceleration (full throttle shifts up to highway speeds at least once a week-called an "Italian Tuneup" so your VNT turbo vanes do not stick from exhaust crud that can build on them if you drive like a granny.

If your vehicle has 0w40 in it, dump it after a couple hundred miles and put in some good old Shell or Delo 5w40 oil...your valve train will thank you. Don't forget to do turbo cool downs religiously!

If you haven't done so, get a GDE eco tune immediately to reduce EGR function.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 24, 2014 6:18 pm

Also, be careful of what the mechanics think is "blow by" from the CCV or the oil cap. This isn't coming from past the rings unless it is somehow pressurizing the oil pan too. The CCV flow on this engine is almost entirely from compression leaking past the valve guides in the head. My understanding is that this design does not have any seals on the valve guides, just machine tolerance. Every CRD I have worked on has a fair amount of flow coming from the CCV, yet they all run just fine. CCV flow does not equal a problem.

Don't open the oil cap while the engine is running unless you hate the shirt you are wearing... It will get speckled with oil instantly as she spits all over you. This is coming from the LIFTER that is right under the oil cap. There is another under the CCV, which is why the CCV flow is so oily too.

As for break in, do what was said: vary your speeds below 65 (don't go above 70) and vary the loads for the first 1000 miles. Then do an oil change at 1000 and put in Mobil 1 Delvac (Turbo diesel truck) 5w40 or Shell Rotella T6 5w40 - SYNTHETIC ONLY AND ALWAYS. Mobil 1 M1-301 filter is a slightly oversized, but will fit perfectly. The oil fill will be a full 7 quarts then, instead of the 6.4 with the stock filter.

Enjoy your new motor.

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jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

Aren't these installed on our engines?

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=3857

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JeepCoMj · **Joined:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:54 pm **Posts:** 161

The break in period is listed in the owners manual for breaking in your vehicle. Basically no hard acceleration for 300 miles, the first 60 of which do not exceed 45mph, and don't remain at one rpm consistently. For the remainder of that 300, do not exceed 55mph

It doesn't say to do any early maintenance oil change, but I suggest to do it at 500, 2000, and 4000 miles on the new motor, then return to normal maintenance. This is all theory on intervals, but it's simply to know what the oil looks like and inspect for metal flakes or debris.

The other reason for the 500 mile oil change is that mopar reman engines come with the oil filter and oil with a uv dye in them. It's formulated for break in, but remember the old school "3 month/3k mile" rule of thumb....these engines sit on a shelf for a long time before they are used, so that oil is certainly in poor shape from a chemistry standpoint.

New engine break in period???????? Car now has no smoke???

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