As looking from the transfer case to the rear Diff, you'll see the yoke, which has that round "hunk" attached, and after that is the rear shaft with the u joints. You'll need to take out the steel clamp that is on the rubber boot the on the shaft side, and leave the one on the transfer case there. Inside that rubber boot is the spline from the shaft and the rubber boot is there to prevent dust and water getting on that spline. So, once that clamp is removed, all you need to do is to remove those 4 bolts from the differential side, slide the Diff side of the shaft down and pull the spline out from the transfer case. The rubber boot and the round "hunk" will stay on the transfer case and the shaft will come out. The Diff side may be stuck in there even after removing the bolts, and some pb blaster around would help loosening it up. You can tap it with a rubber mallet to get it loose. To replace the ujoint after removing the shaft, you could also use some pb blaster on those metal clamps/rings that keep the ujoint in the shaft, they also tend to rust and get stuck in there. Once you have them removed, start by tapping the ujoint out from the spline side first, then take that ujoint end where the needle rollers are located, then tap it the opposite way to remove the other one . then repeat for the other 2 from the shaft connection. Just be careful to not loose the needles from the new u joint. It's not as hard as it seems, especially if you have a big heavy duty c clamp for ball joints and an impact gun. Fsm is a little helpful in providing an idea of the procedure.
_________________ 2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.
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