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 Post subject: U-joint life expectancy
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:10 am 
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The vibration on deceleration has returned, same as last time. I suspect one of the U-joints in the rear shaft has failed again. They were replaced under warranty at 24K. Now with another 66K on the clock they would appear to have gone again. Shouldn't I expect to see a longer service life out of these? This time I'm going with the super strength greasables from Moog. Hopefully they will last a bit longer this time.

While on the subject of that drive shaft what is the hunk of metal on the front of that shaft. It seems to be a couple of concentric steel rings with rubber fillers between them. Some sort of vibration damper I'm assuming? I don't see it on the shaft in the parts fiche or the FSM pics.

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 Post subject: Re: U-joint life expectancy
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:14 pm 
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As looking from the transfer case to the rear Diff, you'll see the yoke, which has that round "hunk" attached, and after that is the rear shaft with the u joints. You'll need to take out the steel clamp that is on the rubber boot the on the shaft side, and leave the one on the transfer case there. Inside that rubber boot is the spline from the shaft and the rubber boot is there to prevent dust and water getting on that spline. So, once that clamp is removed, all you need to do is to remove those 4 bolts from the differential side, slide the Diff side of the shaft down and pull the spline out from the transfer case. The rubber boot and the round "hunk" will stay on the transfer case and the shaft will come out. The Diff side may be stuck in there even after removing the bolts, and some pb blaster around would help loosening it up. You can tap it with a rubber mallet to get it loose. To replace the ujoint after removing the shaft, you could also use some pb blaster on those metal clamps/rings that keep the ujoint in the shaft, they also tend to rust and get stuck in there. Once you have them removed, start by tapping the ujoint out from the spline side first, then take that ujoint end where the needle rollers are located, then tap it the opposite way to remove the other one . then repeat for the other 2 from the shaft connection. Just be careful to not loose the needles from the new u joint. It's not as hard as it seems, especially if you have a big heavy duty c clamp for ball joints and an impact gun. Fsm is a little helpful in providing an idea of the procedure.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: U-joint life expectancy
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:29 pm 
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thermorex wrote:
The rubber boot and the round "hunk" will stay on the transfer case and the shaft will come out.


We're talking about the same metal hunk you see between 7 sec and 13 sec? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRdDcfU6230

You sure it stays on the transfer case? It looks pretty well part of that front sliding yoke.

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 Post subject: Re: U-joint life expectancy
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:20 pm 
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My bad, sorry, that comes out with the shaft. The spline is in between the "hunk" and transfer case, inside the rubber. Sorry for confusion, I forgot :). Pretty much once the rear shaft from the Diff is disconnected, pulling the shaft towards the rear will make the spline slide out through the rubber boot. Just have the car in neutral so you can twist it. If I remember correctly, one spline has a mark, looks like it's the widest one, I thing there is the same mark in the "yoke side", would probably not hurt to look and check when you slide it out, just to be sure.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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