DTC retrieval problems: It is almost impossible to get codes off of this thing unless you have a shop diagnostic machine; been like that since I bought it in 2006. I read through several threads on here regarding this, but I don't have a clear idea of what I should use. I did see the Emissions Recall 31, but I can't take it in for that flash until I get the other issues fixed. Trying to troubleshoot issues with this thing, is a PITA! Could somebody direct me to something I can purchase and put on my laptop. I read through several threads, but I am just as confused now as to what actually works. I don't have an Android phone, or I would try that Torque Pro app.

Current Issue: The jeep is running rough from idle and evens out at about 2,000 RPM. I don't hear any mechanical noise present; no smoke. The EGR is new and I have the MAF disconnected. The turbo spools up at RPM. I got it back from my X and it had an air leak issue with the fuel head so I replaced it as well as the in-tank lift pump modification. It ran fine for about 600 miles and passed emissions with the MAF plugged in. I was driving 45mph, and it all of a sudden started running rough and lost power at 1,600 RPM. The fuel head prime is perfect.

I am concerned about the injector pump. It would be nice if I could actually see the fuel rail pressure.

Any help would be apprectiated. I am going to pull the FCV tonight and see if something is jacked with the butterfly sticking closed.

While you have the FCV out - Remove the butterfly entirely. It won't hurt anything, and has no other purpose beyond creating even more EGR flow.

Consider also the Weeks101 elbow kit, that is a great mod to eliminate any possible problems with the EGR system.
GDE can sell you the engine scanner (conveniently comes with a nice tune option!) that can pull codes, but will also fully eliminate the EGR code from the computer.

Let me think about the rough running some more, I'm about to start driving so I probably shouldn't be on an ipad on a forum while in traffic.


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_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Sounds like you may have blown a boost or CAC hose. They are prone to getting saturated with oil and splitting under pressure. I recommend taking both out of the vehicle and examining them for splits or holes.


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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Gen2 Fuel Head - Magnaflow Exhaust - Ram transmission swap - In-Tank Lift Pump
Moab Wheels - 245/75/R16 LR E Cooper Discoverer AT3 Tires - OME Lift 790/90009 948/60069 - Etecno Glow Plugs - V6 Airbox
RUNNING B100
Pic of my Jeep!

This is good advice, it does seem like either an air supply or fuel supply instability. If you have smoke, then you have not enough air for the fuel / boost that the computer is expecting. If you have no smoke, but poor operation / stumbling, then that usually is still a fuel delivery problem. I have only heard of one injector pump failure, so I would tend to think they are fairly solid performers in this application. They use the same pump on much larger engines than this, so bear that in mind.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Things to check that come to mind:

Check the turbo boost controller hose from the turbo to the solenoid. Make sure it does not have a hole in it or is broken.
Try the bypassing the turbo boost control solenoid test described on this forum.
Check your air filter and make sure it has not collapsed into the intake pipe.
Remove the air box and intake pipe going to the turbo and inspect for collapse.
While you have the intake boot out, inspect the turbo vanes for any debris. Should be NONE!
Check turbo for any excess shaft movement while you have the boot off. Should be minimal
Manually move the turbo vane controller rod and watch and make sure the vanes move freely and are not sticking.

Good luck and let us know what the problem is when you find it!!!!
WWDiesel

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Thanks for the replies. Sorry I didn't respond, ligtning took out my phone and DSL.

The problem was really weird; the local shop agreed to put it on the shop diagnostic tool. I went home to get it and it ran fine. It had a misfire code on the #1 cylinder, which I am guessing was caused by some unknown condition with the fuel injector. I cleared the codes and I have about 250 miles since the problem happened; runs fine now. I do have the MAF plugged in, and will probably just keep that way until I can buy the tune. I might replace the #1 injector here at some point because it makes me nervous; hate for it to stick open. I only have about 30,000 miles on the SAMCOs; already went through the split hose once.

I am getting the intake kit, the thermostat, and the GDE tune as money permits.

Thanks

Reverse order. GDE tune should be first.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP