New to me CRD

devilkin4 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 24, 2014 12:23 pm

earlier this week i picked up a 06 CRD from a dealer with 70k on it for a fairly good price and i got a extended warranty till 150k and its stock and the best part doing any mods to it wont void the warranty. so first thing i should do is the provent/ehm, then exhaust and silcone hoses. is there anything else i would need to do thats on the cheapier side till i can get it a hot tune?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Apr 24, 2014 1:28 pm

It's relatively cheep and you can do it yourself if you are handy but at getting toward 8 years old and that mileage I'd thing about a new timing belt.

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Disable your EGR as soon as you can.

CIMARRON13 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:45 pm

Timing belt for sure even if your not at 100K. I just did mine at 82K and the belt was showing wear

devilkin4 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 24, 2014 5:57 pm

So i unplugged the MAF to disable the EGR valve and it didnt throw a CEL any ideas why? becuase i thought from what i read it would cause a CEL

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 24, 2014 6:08 pm

devilkin4 wrote:

So i unplugged the MAF to disable the EGR valve and it didnt throw a CEL any ideas why? becuase i thought from what i read it would cause a CEL

Give it time. Sometimes it takes a start cycle or two.

Keep an eye on the dashboard the next time you put the key in - if the check engine doesn't at least light during the self-test phase, then someone "accidentally" burnt it out or covered it with tape.

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camo · **Posted:** Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:38 pm

geordi wrote:

devilkin4 wrote:

So i unplugged the MAF to disable the EGR valve and it didnt throw a CEL any ideas why? becuase i thought from what i read it would cause a CEL

Give it time. Sometimes it takes a start cycle or two.

Keep an eye on the dashboard the next time you put the key in - if the check engine doesn't at least light during the self-test phase, then someone "accidentally" burnt it out or covered it with tape.

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X2 it is very common that some ppl just disable the check engine light for emission purposes and to stop throwing money on fixing the EGR.
The other possibility is that your CRD has a GDE tune already, if that is the case, you got a great deal. Otherwise just get the GDE tune ASAP which is the most important thing along with the timing belt replacement you can (and arguably a must) do.
:JEEPIN:

enjoy you new marriage :mrgreen:

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:59 pm

You will know if you have a GDE tune if the engine RPMs flare on startup. The rpm should quickly rise on starting to 1200 or so, then drop right to the normal 800rpm.

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devilkin4 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2014 6:45 pm

geordi wrote:

You will know if you have a GDE tune if the engine RPMs flare on startup. The rpm should quickly rise on starting to 1200 or so, then drop right to the normal 800rpm.

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well on start up the rpms go to about 1200/1300 then drop down to the 800 like you said so then it should have a tune?? and how will i know which tune it has?? it is pretty darn quick and ive had it almost to 90+ on the michigan highways and im sure it could have gone fast once i noticed i was going that fast i slowed down. so i need to now figure out what else has been done to it. which is going to fun cause it looks stock.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2014 7:11 pm

devilkin4 wrote:

geordi wrote:

You will know if you have a GDE tune if the engine RPMs flare on startup. The rpm should quickly rise on starting to 1200 or so, then drop right to the normal 800rpm.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

well on start up the rpms go to about 1200/1300 then drop down to the 800 like you said so then it should have a tune?? and how will i know which tune it has?? it is pretty darn quick and ive had it almost to 90+ on the michigan highways and im sure it could have gone fast once i noticed i was going that fast i slowed down. so i need to now figure out what else has been done to it. which is going to fun cause it looks stock.

Sounds like it does have a tune. You will want to contact Keith at GreenDieselEngineering and give him your VIN number, he will be able to tell you what tune he programmed for that CRD.

devilkin4 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 26, 2014 7:19 pm

geordi wrote:

devilkin4 wrote:

geordi wrote:

You will know if you have a GDE tune if the engine RPMs flare on startup. The rpm should quickly rise on starting to 1200 or so, then drop right to the normal 800rpm.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

well on start up the rpms go to about 1200/1300 then drop down to the 800 like you said so then it should have a tune?? and how will i know which tune it has?? it is pretty darn quick and ive had it almost to 90+ on the michigan highways and im sure it could have gone fast once i noticed i was going that fast i slowed down. so i need to now figure out what else has been done to it. which is going to fun cause it looks stock.

Sounds like it does have a tune. You will want to contact Keith at GreenDieselEngineering and give him your VIN number, he will be able to tell you what tune he programmed for that CRD.

sweet thank you for the info

devilkin4 · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 3:25 pm

Just got a email from Keith at gde and my crd has the eco tune from 2010 so that's a plus but I'm getting a avg of 26 mpg any ideas why it's so low? I will admit I usually go 80 on the highway

I know it has a new air filter an oil change

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 3:55 pm

26mpg at 80mph is exactly correct - You are actually on the higher end of the scale. Sounds like the engine is in good shape, now to figure out about that timing belt...

flman · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 4:41 pm

devilkin4 wrote:

earlier this week i picked up a 06 CRD from a dealer with 70k on it for a fairly good price and i got a extended warranty till 150k and its stock and the best part doing any mods to it wont void the warranty. so first thing i should do is the provent/ehm, then exhaust and silcone hoses. is there anything else i would need to do thats on the cheapier side till i can get it a hot tune?

Provent OK, EHM only if you like oil to drip on your driveway and garage or possibly freeze and blows the seals out of your engine if you get winter in your area? I have 2 and my only mods are GDE tune, and inline fuel pumps.

cerich · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 4:45 pm

you can plug the MAF backin the GDE tune takes care of the EGR.

I have a eco tune as well and get 24-25 at 80, I also have General Grabber AT2 tires so they aren't exactly economy. If I drive it at 60-65 I can get 28-31 mpg.... I never do.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2014 6:19 pm

I have done the EHM last year and I park on concrete in a garage every evening and it has never dropped one single drop of oil from the E hose which I have routed to the back of the motor just below the bell housing.

Cannot say the same for my Dodge Cummins which came from the factory vented to the outside of the motor. It does drip an occasional drop of black oil on the concrete.

I still would rather have an occasional drop of oil to deal with as opposed the oil contaminating and coating the turbo vanes, both inter-cooler hoses and the insides of the inter-cooler itself. I know the oil vapor contaminates all of these items as when I did the timing belt job last fall, I soaked and washed out the inter-cooler and hoses with a strong degreaser and got a bunch of oily residue out of them. :furious:

Its your choice, I recommend the EHM! :2cents:

usa591 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 1:22 am

If you have a warranty extension 'till 150k miles, you could roll the dice and not do the timing belt change until 100k miles to save some money. The warranty would cover an early failure, right?

I'm getting a little nervous with my '06 and around 78k miles on the odometer...

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 7:18 am

Geordi figured out that the OEM CCV pressurizes the crankcase at higher RPMs. This frequently causes the rear main seal to fail as it did on ours at 17K miles. You also get slightly better mileage with EHM. I just put it back to stock for annual state inspection so a puff of smoke does not come out at the wrong moment.

HOWEVER, it is CRITICAL that you do it correctly so it NEVER collapses or becomes blocked with ice.

Also, though many motors have been brought back to life after rocker failure, several have blown up a few thousand miles later. Valve to piston contact is NEVER a good thing. Do your TB, WP, tensioner, thermostat, ASAP.

DOC

devilkin4 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 11:49 am

I know the warranty will cover if anything goes wrong ie (timing belt) and the damage it will cause. but do i want to risk the timing belt breaking nope. im going to call and see if the warranty will cover the replacement before it breaks and if not ill be changing it out. and i live in michigan now for a few years while im in school if i do the EHM do i need to route it a certain way so it doesnt freeze in the winter?

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

I would check your warranty very closely. Typically they do not warranty wear items like brakes, clutches, belts, seals, etc. Typically timing belts have a schedule for change based on miles or years of service. Is the Liberty CRD timing belt life cycle based only on 100K miles or is there also a time stipulation? I also have a warranty that covers me for 5yrs or to 150K. I don't know if they will cover the timing belt or damage done by its failure. So far have never needed any warranty work done.

New to me CRD

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