06 crd Runs 2miles shuts down wait 20 min. same thing

JeepCRD4Me · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 12:55 pm

Hello all!
I am hoping once again you can help me out of the CRD hole I am in.

Months ago I changes the filter/water separator and began have the issue with the jeep stalling and not starting again for 20 to 30 min. after bleeding air from the system. At one point to jeep died in the left hand turn lane first car of a major intersection with my 16 foot boat in-tow in 5:15 pm traffic. Needless to say my bald spot grew a little that day. After that I installed the up-dated filter head in hopes that the air in the fuel lines was coming in at the head. No such luck. It still Runs 2 or 6 miles shuts down then you wait 20 min. it runs then same thing over again.

Fed up and willing to spend money, I went to the dealer. Their diagnosis:

1. Crank shaft position sensor
2. Fuel pressure sensor
Then claimed that may not fix the issue.
3. They said it may need a new injector pump.

All to the tune of yes........... $5000.00 and change!!

From what I read the CRD needs an in tank lift pump and the dealer will not do the work. Says it is not prescribed by Jeep and is to much liability.

So what do you forum folks think? Any and all suggestion are invited.

Thank you,
Roger

P.S. I found the airtex in tank lift pump on amazon cheep. How do I find out if my CRD is pre-wired for the pump without getting into it?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:26 pm

The crank position sensor could be a real possibility. It's on the passenger side near the rear of the block, under a small heat shield that protects it from the turbo. Take it out and put a hair dryer to it while you measure the resistance of the element. It should be around 1000 ohms, but if it goes haywire and shoots up when hot then the sensor is bad.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Wed Apr 30, 2014 9:51 am

My guess would be that all of the symptoms are related to a continuing issue with air in the fuel given they began just after a filter change. Also, why would two sensors and the injector pump fail at the same time? And, I would most definitely take it elsewhere for a second opinion before I would spend $5K on a training exercise for dealer mechanics.

What codes is it throwing?

As far as I know all CRD's were wired for the fuel pump. I paid a local shop to install mine back in the day. I don't recall how much it was, but seemed reasonable at the time.

JeepCRD4Me · **Posted:** Wed Apr 30, 2014 11:50 am

Crank shaft position sensor blew a code "I am guessing" from the motor shuttering to a stop as air interrupted the fuel flow. Would that be possible? Fuel pressure sensor well that is air in the fuel system. The fact that it pops a code DOES or DOES NOT mean the sensor is bad or does it mean the senor is no longer doing it's job. I am guessing it is based on the code i.e..

3 codes for one sensor?
code "a" sensor failure replace it
code "b" sensor unable to do it's job not a bad sensor
code "c" sensor doing its job just letting you know here is the code fix the issue

Dealer looked at me like I had snakes in my hair when I asked this question :roll:

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Apr 30, 2014 2:10 pm

Here is something to check:

Did you remove the old 1" diameter black rubber fuel filter gasket that was on the old fuel filter? It may still be fused to the underside of the fuel head.

Remove the filter again and see if you have 2 black round fuel filter gaskets instead of one.

One would be attached to the filter and the other would be fused to the underside of the head.

You may need to remove the assembly completely in order to check for that thoroughly.

Sometimes, this is the cause for the undetectable air in fuel problem.

JeepCRD4Me · **Posted:** Wed Apr 30, 2014 3:34 pm

I have changed the entire filter head which came with the filter and water separator sensor new style heater plug already installed as one unit.

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:36 pm

Oh, OK. and the hoses and fuel filter are on tight?

JeepCRD4Me · **Posted:** Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:44 pm

as a drum!

Rich · **Posted:** Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:21 pm

A friend of mine had issues with his motor not starting up if warm. Spent a small fortune throwing money at the problem. Finally figured out the issue, after creating a nice flow-chart diagnosing any problem in the fuel system. He posted it on this forum a while ago, but sadly people would rather throw money at the problem using the same "fixes" that didn't work for the last 11ty people with fuel related issues. :banghead:

User name is "sidebrake"

twulf · **Posted:** Thu May 01, 2014 2:15 am

My guess the fuel filter is not screwed on tight enough. Mine is so hard to tighten that I have to remove it from the jeep and put it in a vise.

JeepCRD4Me · **Posted:** Thu May 01, 2014 9:07 am

Is there 3 codes for one sensor?
code "a" sensor failure replace it
code "b" sensor unable to do it's job not a bad sensor
code "c" sensor doing its job just letting you know here is the code fix the issue

Anyone got some good gumbo on my sensor question?

We will find out if the lines are leaking today. D & R automotive is installing the airtex.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Seen something similar and turned out to be that the fuel feed and return lines were mixed up on the filter head install.

An in tank fuel pump is a nice option but an install of an inline Kennedy Lift Pump is much quicker and easier to do and works just as well.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu May 01, 2014 12:14 pm

Drewd wrote:

Seen something similar and turned out to be that the fuel feed and return lines were mixed up on the filter head install.

An in tank fuel pump is a nice option but an install of an inline Kennedy Lift Pump is much quicker and easier to do and works just as well.

X2, and I'll add that it is without all the install headaches that an in tank lift pump brings along with it.

JeepCRD4Me · **Posted:** Fri May 02, 2014 3:42 pm

It ran longer and better after the new head. NOT THAT I'M SELLING!!!!! but the airtex in-tank is better for resale...out of site out of mind. No takers on my how many code per sensor question ha. I thought someone would be all over that.

JeepCRD4Me · **Posted:** Wed May 07, 2014 2:10 pm

CATCRD wrote:

The crank position sensor could be a real possibility. It's on the passenger side near the rear of the block, under a small heat shield that protects it from the turbo. Take it out and put a hair dryer to it while you measure the resistance of the element. It should be around 1000 ohms, but if it goes haywire and shoots up when hot then the sensor is bad.

In my most monotone female voice.........NO MORE CALLS PLEASE WE HAVE A WINNER!!!!! $85.00 CPS and all is well and the lift pump does give a new driving feeling. THANK YOU CATCRD!!!

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed May 07, 2014 10:52 pm

Glad you got it running! Did you try the hair dryer test on the old one?

JeepCRD4Me · **Posted:** Thu May 08, 2014 2:34 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Glad you got it running! Did you try the hair dryer test on the old one?

No after a second scan with the same code we figured the crank shaft position sensor was the one. Thanks again! I will upload some pictures in a few days. :BANANA:

flman · **Posted:** Sun Mar 01, 2015 4:56 pm

I took the Sport out this morning, started fine, cold engine after setting 2 days, brought it back, put it in the garage, went to start it again 4 hours later, and it was spinning over fast but almost sounded like it did not want to start. I have a lift pump, so probably not a fueling problem, but is this a classic with the CPS failing, intermittent long cranking? It has 121K or so on the clock as well.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:08 pm

FYI, my CPS put me on the side of the road one morning less than one mile from the house during the engine warm up cycle a few months ago. It tripped or set no codes (DTCs) at all. Got it restarted and never missed another beat that day. Next morning on way to work during warm up cycle, it hiccuped a couple of times like it lost fuel or something but this time it did set a DTC (P0339) thank goodness.. :roll:

0335 means signal is there, but sometimes incorrect, or completely missing
0339 means signal comes and goes, is always incorrect, or completely missing
Hot water test confirmed - bad sensor!

Got a new CPS, replaced it, never had any more symptoms or codes. :mrgreen:

And, I do have a Carter in-tank lift pump...

Can read the whole thread here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80849&hilit=+cps

flman · **Posted:** Mon Mar 02, 2015 10:28 am

WWDiesel wrote:

FYI, my CPS put me on the side of the road one morning less than one mile from the house during the engine warm up cycle a few months ago. It tripped or set no codes (DTCs) at all. Got it restarted and never missed another beat that day. Next morning on way to work during warm up cycle, it hiccuped a couple of times like it lost fuel or something but this time it did set a DTC (P0339) thank goodness.. :roll:

0335 means signal is there, but sometimes incorrect, or completely missing
0339 means signal comes and goes, is always incorrect, or completely missing
Hot water test confirmed - bad sensor!

Got a new CPS, replaced it, never had any more symptoms or codes. :mrgreen:

And, I do have a Carter in-tank lift pump...

Can read the whole thread here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80849&hilit=+cps

Thanks, No codes so far, so I guess I will let it ride.

06 crd Runs 2miles shuts down wait 20 min. same thing

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