2006 crd wont crank

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

So, this has me stumped (which isn't hard)
Stopped got fuel and I thought it cranked a little slow. Got on the road and the little lightning bolt light turned on as well as the battery light but kept running. Got up to highway speed and battery light went out, but lightning bolt stayed blinking until I got home.
Got home, turned off the jeep, then tried starting it up which it did. Tried again 15 seconds later and nothing. Pulled the codes and got a 560 code which from what I have read is a voltage code. My thought was the battery.
Pulled the battery and put it on the charger and was fairly close to dead. Let it charge all the way up, installed and nothing. Okay, bad battery
Bought a new 850 cca battery installed and still nothing. No clicks no nothing...
What is the best way to chase this down? I have mediocre skills, but given time I think i can do most anything with instructions. Thanks for the help!!

Ken

Billwill · **Posted:** Sat Jul 23, 2016 4:48 am

mtbdemon wrote:

So, this has me stumped (which isn't hard)
Stopped got fuel and I thought it cranked a little slow. Got on the road and the little lightning bolt light turned on as well as the battery light but kept running. Got up to highway speed and battery light went out, but lightning bolt stayed blinking until I got home.
Got home, turned off the jeep, then tried starting it up which it did. Tried again 15 seconds later and nothing. Pulled the codes and got a 560 code which from what I have read is a voltage code. My thought was the battery.
Pulled the battery and put it on the charger and was fairly close to dead. Let it charge all the way up, installed and nothing. Okay, bad battery
Bought a new 850 cca battery installed and still nothing. No clicks no nothing...
What is the best way to chase this down? I have mediocre skills, but given time I think i can do most anything with instructions. Thanks for the help!!

Ken

Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
The negative battery cable going to chassis must be clean and tight both ends.
The grounding strap grounding the engine to chassis must be clean and tight both ends.

Check connections on Starter Solenoid/Starter Motor are clean and tight.

Check if it cranks when in "Neutral" instead of "Park"

Check fuse #8 (40 A) in the Relay/Fuse Box (Power Distribution Center..PDC) under the hood is not blown. Also check fuse #28 (15 A) in the PDC.

Swap over the Starter Relay in PDC with an identical one nearby...do likewise with the ASD Relay.

Make sure the Jeep is in Park or Neutral so you do not run anybody over.
Remove the Starter Relay and identify the Female pins 30 and 87 inside the Relay Socket.
Briefly jumper these pins 30 and 87 together inside the Relay Socket...engine should turn over and if ignition is turned ON may start and you can run like this for a while.

This above procedure bypasses the ignition switch, the Ignition Pin Actuator Assembly, the Starter Relay and the Park/Neutral Sensor inside the transmission (Range Sensor).

Then to see if the Actuator Pin Assembly....rotates the ignition switch to Start when ignition key is turned to Start.....is broken..which is a common problem...do the following. Re-insert Starter Relay.

Obtain a Multimeter if you do not already have one....a cheap Chinese Digital meter is accurate enough for your purposes.

Check Starter Relay Pin 86 gets +12 volts when ignition switch is turned to Start...you can measure this +12 volts on both sides of fuse #28. If +12 Volts is not there then the ignition switch or the Actuator Pin Assembly is faulty....more on this later.

If +12 Volts is there...check if Pin 85 on the Starter Relay...Dark Green/Orange wire...goes down to ground with respect to the Positive Terminal on the battery....failure to do so means there is a problem on the Park/Neutral interlock inside the Transmission. You can temporary ground this Dark Green/Orange wire to see if it then turns over...make sure you are in Park/Neutral. If it does crank then the Range Sensor inside the transmission is possibly faulty or there is a wiring problem or bad connection at the ECM or TCM.

With battery disconnected....unplug/replug the connections on the ECM/TCM a few times in case of a bad connection.

To get back to the Actuator Pin Assembly...there are lots of posts on this issue to search on but basically:
Remove the plastic covers over the steering column...two Female Torx screws.
Remove the Ignition Switch from the Actuator Pin Assembly....smaller female Torx screw. This will be a Security Screw ie. it requires a Male Torx Bit with a hole down its center to remove the screw.

When you pull the ignition switch from the actuator pin...see if bits of plastic/metal fall off. This means the Actuator Pin Assembly tip has broken and you need to buy a new assembly at Dorman or other suppliers...Dealers do not carry it...see the Post below by Dgideon Help, Stranded etc. about where to get this Actuator Pin Assm!

In the meantime you can turn the ignition key using a small flat screwdriver...if ignition key is inside its normal slot to Enable SKIS and to disengage steering lock...it should start and run like this.

Download the 2006 KJ Service Manual here...includes Wiring Diagrams:

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

Bear in mind that the LHD 2006 CRD has a known problem where the wire harness goes behind the Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket and can get clamped to chassis which causes wires to chafe to chassis...if you do not find the problem with the above procedures then remove this bracket and check for damaged wires behind it! :wink:

Dgideon · **Posted:** Sat Jul 23, 2016 8:38 am

Yes, by all means check for a broken / failed Ignition Actuator. My 2005 Libby CRD had 139,000 miles when the tip of the Actuator broke off (two small metal pieces fell out).

Autozone #295435 Ignition Actuator DORMAN 924-704 $40.99. Autozone in Salida CO only had one (1) in stock.

If you like to carry spares for your Libby, I highly recommend having the DORMAN 924-704 on hand. :pepper:

mtbdemon wrote:

So, this has me stumped (which isn't hard)
Stopped got fuel and I thought it cranked a little slow. Got on the road and the little lightning bolt light turned on as well as the battery light but kept running. Got up to highway speed and battery light went out, but lightning bolt stayed blinking until I got home.
Got home, turned off the jeep, then tried starting it up which it did. Tried again 15 seconds later and nothing. Pulled the codes and got a 560 code which from what I have read is a voltage code. My thought was the battery.
Pulled the battery and put it on the charger and was fairly close to dead. Let it charge all the way up, installed and nothing. Okay, bad battery
Bought a new 850 cca battery installed and still nothing. No clicks no nothing...
What is the best way to chase this down? I have mediocre skills, but given time I think i can do most anything with instructions. Thanks for the help!!

Ken

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Thank you!!
Would a broken actuator pin cause a under volt code and cause those two warning lights to light up? Thanks!!

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jul 23, 2016 11:40 am

No, the actuator pin is a physical failure. The undervolt sounds very much like your alternator clutched pulley has failed and you were driving on the battery power until it drained the battery completely. The computers don't much like low voltage, and then trying to crank the engine would draw far more amperage as the voltage drops, which could easily over-amp any involved fuses. Follow Billwill's instructions, they are very good and I think you will find the answer somewhere in there.

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

I should also add....
Park or neutral, no cranking....
All lights and system seem to work fine, just no cranking.....

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Briefly jumper these pins 30 and 87 together inside the Relay Socket...engine should turn over and if ignition is turned ON may start and you can run like this for a while.

So far, no joy. Probably a very stupid question but how do I determine which is pin 30 and 87?

peteyz24 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 23, 2016 6:09 pm

Typically the pin out diagram is on the relay somewhere.

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Billwill wrote:

mtbdemon wrote:

So, this has me stumped (which isn't hard)
Stopped got fuel and I thought it cranked a little slow. Got on the road and the little lightning bolt light turned on as well as the battery light but kept running. Got up to highway speed and battery light went out, but lightning bolt stayed blinking until I got home.
Got home, turned off the jeep, then tried starting it up which it did. Tried again 15 seconds later and nothing. Pulled the codes and got a 560 code which from what I have read is a voltage code. My thought was the battery.
Pulled the battery and put it on the charger and was fairly close to dead. Let it charge all the way up, installed and nothing. Okay, bad battery
Bought a new 850 cca battery installed and still nothing. No clicks no nothing...
What is the best way to chase this down? I have mediocre skills, but given time I think i can do most anything with instructions. Thanks for the help!!

Ken

Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
The negative battery cable going to chassis must be clean and tight both ends.
The grounding strap grounding the engine to chassis must be clean and tight both ends.

Check connections on Starter Solenoid/Starter Motor are clean and tight.

Check if it cranks when in "Neutral" instead of "Park"

Check fuse #8 (40 A) in the Relay/Fuse Box (Power Distribution Center..PDC) under the hood is not blown. Also check fuse #28 (15 A) in the PDC.

Swap over the Starter Relay in PDC with an identical one nearby...do likewise with the ASD Relay.

Make sure the Jeep is in Park or Neutral so you do not run anybody over.
Remove the Starter Relay and identify the Female pins 30 and 87 inside the Relay Socket.
Briefly jumper these pins 30 and 87 together inside the Relay Socket...engine should turn over and if ignition is turned ON may start and you can run like this for a while.

This above procedure bypasses the ignition switch, the Ignition Pin Actuator Assembly, the Starter Relay and the Park/Neutral Sensor inside the transmission (Range Sensor).

Then to see if the Actuator Pin Assembly....rotates the ignition switch to Start when ignition key is turned to Start.....is broken..which is a common problem...do the following. Re-insert Starter Relay.

Obtain a Multimeter if you do not already have one....a cheap Chinese Digital meter is accurate enough for your purposes.

Check Starter Relay Pin 86 gets +12 volts when ignition switch is turned to Start...you can measure this +12 volts on both sides of fuse #28. If +12 Volts is not there then the ignition switch or the Actuator Pin Assembly is faulty....more on this later.

If +12 Volts is there...check if Pin 85 on the Starter Relay...Dark Green/Orange wire...goes down to ground with respect to the Positive Terminal on the battery....failure to do so means there is a problem on the Park/Neutral interlock inside the Transmission. You can temporary ground this Dark Green/Orange wire to see if it then turns over...make sure you are in Park/Neutral. If it does crank then the Range Sensor inside the transmission is possibly faulty or there is a wiring problem or bad connection at the ECM or TCM.

With battery disconnected....unplug/replug the connections on the ECM/TCM a few times in case of a bad connection.

To get back to the Actuator Pin Assembly...there are lots of posts on this issue to search on but basically:
Remove the plastic covers over the steering column...two Female Torx screws.
Remove the Ignition Switch from the Actuator Pin Assembly....smaller female Torx screw. This will be a Security Screw ie. it requires a Male Torx Bit with a hole down its center to remove the screw.

When you pull the ignition switch from the actuator pin...see if bits of plastic/metal fall off. This means the Actuator Pin Assembly tip has broken and you need to buy a new assembly at Dorman or other suppliers...Dealers do not carry it...see the Post below by Dgideon Help, Stranded etc. about where to get this Actuator Pin Assm!

In the meantime you can turn the ignition key using a small flat screwdriver...if ignition key is inside its normal slot to Enable SKIS and to disengage steering lock...it should start and run like this.

Download the 2006 KJ Service Manual here...includes Wiring Diagrams:

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

Bear in mind that the LHD 2006 CRD has a known problem where the wire harness goes behind the Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket and can get clamped to chassis which causes wires to chafe to chassis...if you do not find the problem with the above procedures then remove this bracket and check for damaged wires behind it! :wink:

Okay, so it will run if I use a jumper wire on 30 and 87 and I get no voltage at fuse #28. If I read your post correctly, it sounds like a bad ignition or actuator pin.
I need to go to the local tool store for the correct torx bit...thank you for all the help!!

Amended-I have been bothered by the under volt, so when I got the jeep running, I put a meter on the battery and it read 11.3 volts!! I then hooked up my battery charger which also tests the altinator and it confirm the low voltage by say "bad alternator"
So, the altinator will be replaced as well, but don't understand the no starting....another item I noticed when running is the AC fan was running although the AC was not on. Is this because the relay was removed?

Billwill · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 5:40 am

mtbdemon wrote:

Billwill wrote:

mtbdemon wrote:

So, this has me stumped (which isn't hard)
Stopped got fuel and I thought it cranked a little slow. Got on the road and the little lightning bolt light turned on as well as the battery light but kept running. Got up to highway speed and battery light went out, but lightning bolt stayed blinking until I got home.
Got home, turned off the jeep, then tried starting it up which it did. Tried again 15 seconds later and nothing. Pulled the codes and got a 560 code which from what I have read is a voltage code. My thought was the battery.
Pulled the battery and put it on the charger and was fairly close to dead. Let it charge all the way up, installed and nothing. Okay, bad battery
Bought a new 850 cca battery installed and still nothing. No clicks no nothing...
What is the best way to chase this down? I have mediocre skills, but given time I think i can do most anything with instructions. Thanks for the help!!

Ken

Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
The negative battery cable going to chassis must be clean and tight both ends.
The grounding strap grounding the engine to chassis must be clean and tight both ends.

Check connections on Starter Solenoid/Starter Motor are clean and tight.

Check if it cranks when in "Neutral" instead of "Park"

Check fuse #8 (40 A) in the Relay/Fuse Box (Power Distribution Center..PDC) under the hood is not blown. Also check fuse #28 (15 A) in the PDC.

Swap over the Starter Relay in PDC with an identical one nearby...do likewise with the ASD Relay.

Make sure the Jeep is in Park or Neutral so you do not run anybody over.
Remove the Starter Relay and identify the Female pins 30 and 87 inside the Relay Socket.
Briefly jumper these pins 30 and 87 together inside the Relay Socket...engine should turn over and if ignition is turned ON may start and you can run like this for a while.

This above procedure bypasses the ignition switch, the Ignition Pin Actuator Assembly, the Starter Relay and the Park/Neutral Sensor inside the transmission (Range Sensor).

Then to see if the Actuator Pin Assembly....rotates the ignition switch to Start when ignition key is turned to Start.....is broken..which is a common problem...do the following. Re-insert Starter Relay.

Obtain a Multimeter if you do not already have one....a cheap Chinese Digital meter is accurate enough for your purposes.

Check Starter Relay Pin 86 gets +12 volts when ignition switch is turned to Start...you can measure this +12 volts on both sides of fuse #28. If +12 Volts is not there then the ignition switch or the Actuator Pin Assembly is faulty....more on this later.

If +12 Volts is there...check if Pin 85 on the Starter Relay...Dark Green/Orange wire...goes down to ground with respect to the Positive Terminal on the battery....failure to do so means there is a problem on the Park/Neutral interlock inside the Transmission. You can temporary ground this Dark Green/Orange wire to see if it then turns over...make sure you are in Park/Neutral. If it does crank then the Range Sensor inside the transmission is possibly faulty or there is a wiring problem or bad connection at the ECM or TCM.

With battery disconnected....unplug/replug the connections on the ECM/TCM a few times in case of a bad connection.

To get back to the Actuator Pin Assembly...there are lots of posts on this issue to search on but basically:
Remove the plastic covers over the steering column...two Female Torx screws.
Remove the Ignition Switch from the Actuator Pin Assembly....smaller female Torx screw. This will be a Security Screw ie. it requires a Male Torx Bit with a hole down its center to remove the screw.

When you pull the ignition switch from the actuator pin...see if bits of plastic/metal fall off. This means the Actuator Pin Assembly tip has broken and you need to buy a new assembly at Dorman or other suppliers...Dealers do not carry it...see the Post below by Dgideon Help, Stranded etc. about where to get this Actuator Pin Assm!

In the meantime you can turn the ignition key using a small flat screwdriver...if ignition key is inside its normal slot to Enable SKIS and to disengage steering lock...it should start and run like this.

Download the 2006 KJ Service Manual here...includes Wiring Diagrams:

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

Bear in mind that the LHD 2006 CRD has a known problem where the wire harness goes behind the Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket and can get clamped to chassis which causes wires to chafe to chassis...if you do not find the problem with the above procedures then remove this bracket and check for damaged wires behind it! :wink:

Okay, so it will run if I use a jumper wire on 30 and 87 and I get no voltage at fuse #28. If I read your post correctly, it sounds like a bad ignition or actuator pin.
I need to go to the local tool store for the correct torx bit...thank you for all the help!!

Amended-I have been bothered by the under volt, so when I got the jeep running, I put a meter on the battery and it read 11.3 volts!! I then hooked up my battery charger which also tests the altinator and it confirm the low voltage by say "bad alternator"
So, the altinator will be replaced as well, but don't understand the no starting....another item I noticed when running is the AC fan was running although the AC was not on. Is this because the relay was removed?

The alternator may not be bad....as stated it could be the Alternator Decoupler which can go faulty....this is a one-way clutch that tends to fail....there are lots of posts about how to replace this Decoupler....the sealed and greased "Litens" decoupler lasts longer. You need special tools to replace this item but you can make some up....may be best to replace the alternator with the decoupler already fitted!

You definitely should get +12 volts on both side of fuse 28 which is located in the PDC ie. the box under the hood when the key is turned to "Start"......looks like a broken Actuator Pin Assembly or bad ignition switch.....you should see broken pieces if the Actuator assembly has broken and if it turns over using a small flat screwdriver in the ignition switch it confirms that the ignition switch is OK but the Pin has broken.

AC switches ON/OFF even when AC is not switched ON....to maintain humidity. :wink:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 12:29 pm

Be sure and also check the fusible link no. A11. If this link is blown then the alternator cannot supply any voltage back to the battery!
It is a link between the alternator and the power distribution center.
Check the voltage on the back of the alternator with the engine off. It should read the same as the votage at the battery. If it does not then the link is blown!

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Thank you! I have confirmed that I do have power to the alternator so the link is not blown.

This is a relatively new alternator with a lifetime warranty, so I will pull it and get it replaced.

The only thing I'm not clear on is sticking a flat blade screw driver in the ignition. Do you simply get a vet small screw driver and stick in the slot and don't turn the ignition as you would with a key?
Is there a way to see i the ignition is good or bad before pulling it all apart?

Thanks for all the help!!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 4:58 pm

mtbdemon wrote:

Thank you! I have confirmed that I do have power to the alternator so the link is not blown.

This is a relatively new alternator with a lifetime warranty, so I will pull it and get it replaced.

The only thing I'm not clear on is sticking a flat blade screw driver in the ignition. Do you simply get a vet small screw driver and stick in the slot and don't turn the ignition as you would with a key?
Is there a way to see i the ignition is good or bad before pulling it all apart?

Thanks for all the help!!

Remove the bottom cover on the steering column to view the actuator rod on the actuator mechanism...
Dorman OE Solutions - Actuator Line: DOR | Part # 924-704
View this video from O'reilly Auto Parts on how to replace the part. It is on a PT Cruiser but very, very similar to our Jeep CRD's!
http://video.oreillyauto.com/v/1745822896/dorman-instalation-924-704-mp4-dormanr-solutionstm-pin/

Billwill · **Posted:** Mon Jul 25, 2016 3:46 am

mtbdemon wrote:

Thank you! I have confirmed that I do have power to the alternator so the link is not blown.

This is a relatively new alternator with a lifetime warranty, so I will pull it and get it replaced.

The only thing I'm not clear on is sticking a flat blade screw driver in the ignition. Do you simply get a vet small screw driver and stick in the slot and don't turn the ignition as you would with a key?
Is there a way to see i the ignition is good or bad before pulling it all apart?

Thanks for all the help!!

The actuator pin assembly tends to start breaking slowly at its tip....you can turn on ignition or the accesory position fine but that last spring-loaded turn to the Start position is a bit too far for the end of the actuator pin to achieve. So you should expect to feel this "spring" resistance on the key when you turn to the Start position...if it is not there then the actuator pin is definitely broken but sometimes the spring resistance is there with a broken pin.

Once you have removed the Security Torx screw and pulled the ignition switch off of the actuator pin...you will see bits of plastic/metal falling out from the end of the actuator assembly....some are made from plastic and some are made from cast zinc-alloy. This actuator assembly is a long rectangular assembly that fits into a corresponding slot in the ignition switch so you can place a small flat screwdriver into this slot and turn it as you would turn it by using the ignition key.

You will notice that this actuator pin assembly is hollow inside and has a long thin plastic "sliver" protuding from it. This "sliver" gets pushed forward by the ignition switch being fully inserted in its slot and the sliver then pushes on a seperate switch contact inside the ignition switch....this cause the "beep" when you open a door with the ignition key all the way in the ignition. I mention this because some owners have had a problem when replacing this actuator pin assembly in that sometimes this "sliver" protrudes too far and causes the switch contact to be pressed down even when the key is fully removed so it "beeps" all the time. The solution here is to carefully trim off a small section of this sliver at its end.

Another problem that some owners have had is that the rotational orientation of the ignition switch to the actuator pin is some times off a degree or two..this can cause the switch to not be able to rotate all the way to make contact or maybe it starts off rotated a bit too much.

My Manual 2002 CRD picked up an issue after a few years with this orientation...must have been on the border line at manufacture because I did not have to actually replace the actuator pin assembly. On the Manual transmission the engine will not crank unless you have the clutch pedal fully depressed. On my Jeep I would turn ON the ignition, wait a few seconds for the Glow Plugs to heat up, depress the clutch pedal and turn ignition to Start.
Suddenly what happened was that I would turn ON the ignition, wait a few seconds, press the clutch pedal and at that instance the engine would crank over and start ie. the switch was already so far rotated that it was in the Start position. I fixed this by elongating the hole where the Torx screw fits through...rotated the switch a bit forward and tightened up the screw.

Some owners have had similar problem where the switch is too far advanced or retarded in relation to the orientation of the actuator pin. The fix is to either do what I did or elongate a mounting tab slot on the switch itself..my early KJ did not have this slot. I have not had a broken actuator pin yet...I think the breakage is more dependent on if you do a lot of short trips and are using the key more often....I have not done a lot of mileage and most of this mileage has been accrued over long distances. I carry a full set of tools with me including a good Mutimeter, 2002 KJ Service Manuals on my Samsung Pad, spare wiring etc. so if I do get a breakage I will be able to get home....difficult to find non-OEM Jeep parts here in SA! :wink:

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Update- replaced the alternator (a bit of a chore for one person trying to get the belt on the pulley with one hand and the other on the bolt for the tightener pulley) anyway, I have 14.2 volts at the battery when the jeep is started.
Started on the actuator pin/ignition, but so far no evidence of plastic bits or metal. I'm a bit nervous having the steering column so far apart, but I will keep at it until I get the pin fully out.
I can't seem to separate the pin actuator assembly from the black electronics module. It seems somewhat delicate and don't want to screw that up. Should it simply separate??

Thanks for all of your help out there!!!

Billwill · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 4:01 am

mtbdemon wrote:

Update- replaced the alternator (a bit of a chore for one person trying to get the belt on the pulley with one hand and the other on the bolt for the tightner pulley) anyway, I have 14.2 volts at the battery when the jeep is started.
Started on the actuator pin/ignition, but so far no evidence of plastic bits or metal. I'm a bit nervous having the steering colum so far apart, but I will keep at it until I get the pin fully out.
I can't seem to separate the pin actuator assembly from the black electronics module. It seems somewhat delicate and don't want to screw that up. Should it simply separate??

Thanks for all of your help out there!!!

You should at this stage only have removed the two plastic covers surrounding the steering column.
You should see on the LHS the ignition switch... with its connector plugged on it with colored wires coming of it..on the end of the actuator assembly. Once you have removed the small Security Torx screw then the ignition switch unclips and pulls off the end of the actuator assembly in a straight line. Nothing really sensitive in that area as long as you do not twist or bend the switch/actuator assembly.

I have driven with those covers off trying to locate a rattle in that area! :wink:

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

I know I'm making this much too hard, but I cannot reattach the actuator pin assembly to the black unit. (See my picture in previous post) I thought I had this figured out but I'm stumped.
I have looked at the old part from every angle and no mater what I do, I cannot connect the new. No matter how I rotate the shaft. If I take it apart and only have the pin and shaft, it inserts fine. I have tried all angles and no luck. As I said, I'm sure I'm making this harder then it should be.
Oh, and the old metal shaft was broken, but not the plastic pin

Thank you for the continued help!!

Update-I was making it too difficult and I was being too gentle. Popped it back together with a new alternator, battery and ignition and all is good.
Now, I will be keeping a jump wire in the jeep for such an occasion.
Thank you all soooooo much for all the help!!!

2006 crd wont crank

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