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Help! http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=79165 |
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Author: | mtnmed71 [ Fri May 23, 2014 1:36 pm ] |
Post subject: | Help! |
DTC retrieval problems: It is almost impossible to get codes off of this thing unless you have a shop diagnostic machine; been like that since I bought it in 2006. I read through several threads on here regarding this, but I don't have a clear idea of what I should use. I did see the Emissions Recall 31, but I can't take it in for that flash until I get the other issues fixed. Trying to troubleshoot issues with this thing, is a PITA! Could somebody direct me to something I can purchase and put on my laptop. I read through several threads, but I am just as confused now as to what actually works. I don't have an Android phone, or I would try that Torque Pro app. Current Issue: The jeep is running rough from idle and evens out at about 2,000 RPM. I don't hear any mechanical noise present; no smoke. The EGR is new and I have the MAF disconnected. The turbo spools up at RPM. I got it back from my X and it had an air leak issue with the fuel head so I replaced it as well as the in-tank lift pump modification. It ran fine for about 600 miles and passed emissions with the MAF plugged in. I was driving 45mph, and it all of a sudden started running rough and lost power at 1,600 RPM. The fuel head prime is perfect. I am concerned about the injector pump. It would be nice if I could actually see the fuel rail pressure. Any help would be apprectiated. I am going to pull the FCV tonight and see if something is jacked with the butterfly sticking closed. |
Author: | geordi [ Fri May 23, 2014 4:16 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Help! |
While you have the FCV out - Remove the butterfly entirely. It won't hurt anything, and has no other purpose beyond creating even more EGR flow. Consider also the Weeks101 elbow kit, that is a great mod to eliminate any possible problems with the EGR system. GDE can sell you the engine scanner (conveniently comes with a nice tune option!) that can pull codes, but will also fully eliminate the EGR code from the computer. Let me think about the rough running some more, I'm about to start driving so I probably shouldn't be on an ipad on a forum while in traffic. ![]() Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD |
Author: | ebbnflow [ Fri May 23, 2014 4:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Help! |
Sounds like you may have blown a boost or CAC hose. They are prone to getting saturated with oil and splitting under pressure. I recommend taking both out of the vehicle and examining them for splits or holes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Author: | geordi [ Fri May 23, 2014 11:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Help! |
ebbnflow wrote: Sounds like you may have blown a boost or CAC hose. They are prone to getting saturated with oil and splitting under pressure. I recommend taking both out of the vehicle and examining them for splits or holes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk This is good advice, it does seem like either an air supply or fuel supply instability. If you have smoke, then you have not enough air for the fuel / boost that the computer is expecting. If you have no smoke, but poor operation / stumbling, then that usually is still a fuel delivery problem. I have only heard of one injector pump failure, so I would tend to think they are fairly solid performers in this application. They use the same pump on much larger engines than this, so bear that in mind. |
Author: | WWDiesel [ Sat May 24, 2014 10:17 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Help! |
Things to check that come to mind:
Try the bypassing the turbo boost control solenoid test described on this forum. Check your air filter and make sure it has not collapsed into the intake pipe. Remove the air box and intake pipe going to the turbo and inspect for collapse. While you have the intake boot out, inspect the turbo vanes for any debris. Should be NONE! Check turbo for any excess shaft movement while you have the boot off. Should be minimal Manually move the turbo vane controller rod and watch and make sure the vanes move freely and are not sticking. ![]() WWDiesel ![]() |
Author: | mtnmed71 [ Tue May 27, 2014 4:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Help! |
Thanks for the replies. Sorry I didn't respond, ligtning took out my phone and DSL. The problem was really weird; the local shop agreed to put it on the shop diagnostic tool. I went home to get it and it ran fine. It had a misfire code on the #1 cylinder, which I am guessing was caused by some unknown condition with the fuel injector. I cleared the codes and I have about 250 miles since the problem happened; runs fine now. I do have the MAF plugged in, and will probably just keep that way until I can buy the tune. I might replace the #1 injector here at some point because it makes me nervous; hate for it to stick open. I only have about 30,000 miles on the SAMCOs; already went through the split hose once. I am getting the intake kit, the thermostat, and the GDE tune as money permits. Thanks |
Author: | DOC4444 [ Tue May 27, 2014 9:17 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Help! |
Reverse order. GDE tune should be first. DOC |
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