What to look for in a TEST DRIVE

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 9:19 am

I'm about to go test drive a 2005 CRD with 83k miles on it.

What should I look for during the test drive? What should I look for in an initial inspection?

I'm looking for quick and dirty advice such as:

If you were to see XXXXXX or experience XXXXXXX during a test drive, you would not buy the truck.

Thanks guys. Looking forward to joining the CRD crew.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 9:49 am

Usual vehicle stuff plus
1. pop air filter cover and see if clean
2. pump fuel filter primer to see if solid, should be almost immediately. Look for driver side bright blue fuel filter heater plug as sign of 2n gen filter head. If not figure ca. $125 to replace yourself but it does come with a new fuel filter
3. if you can see/feel underside of airbox to turbo hose check for tear on bottom just in front of turbo
4. check both CAC hoses especially if black stock ones. If soggy with oil get Samcos $250
5. during drive does coolant temp gauge get essentially vertical or stop a few tics left of vertical. If the latter tstat is shot and needs replacement, ca. $150 or maybe consider in line
6. proof of fluid changes with correct spec fluids (antifreeze, tranny)
7. at that age and miles a timing belt job is essentially and immediate need (idparts has kit). Consider cost of materials and getting it done if you are not doing it yourself.
8. is it peppy off the line with only slight turbo lag once engine is warmed up.
9. at idle look down serpentine belt (may have to remove plastic engine cover) and see if belt tensioner is barely wiggling, if wiggling a lot alternator clutch pulley is shot.
10. check AC temp function with thermometer per readings in FSM

All I can think of right now.

PS where are you? Maybe there is a nearby member that can come along

PPS does it have a GDE tune

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

Check for ball joint play which is easy you can feel it when you come to a stop. If usually feels and sounds like metal moving. Make sure the 4 wheel drive works and goes in and out of the different modes. Plus that stuff in the above post.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 1:17 pm

I heard clunking during the test drive. None of your noob upgrades have been done. It's in rough shape.

What do ball joints and stuff cost?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 1:51 pm

I'll repeat, where are you?

What type of clunking? Could be motor mounts, a bit of a pain but not expensive. Could be drive shaft "U" joints, also a pain but cheap. Could be front drive axles (probably about the cost of any "CV" joint) or front suspension parts (not much different from a gasser, heavier springs IIRC, or any other vehicle).

Rough shape does not sound good but might be ok depending on what rough means, what the price is, and how handy you or other nearby members are.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 2:19 pm

Sorry. I was at the dealership getting my hands dirty. I'm in Dallas TX closer to Denton. Handiness level high.

My initial list:
Oil is dirty, Filter is old. Not serviced according to advertisement.
Air filter is dirty
Fuel filter is old
Thermostat is shot
Transmission service unknown
Brake rear hose twisted
Ball joints and alignment needed
Cruise control not working
Wiper blades old
Windshield cracked
Engine is dirty up top
Power train is dirty on bottom
Pass side door body damage
Headlight housing damaged
Front bumper and pass side turn signal
Pass rear fender split
Drivers door bad body work/paint
No service records or receipts

I offered what I thought was fair money for the condition. They came off a little from their listed price but not enough to get my business.

So I'm looking and I can be very patient. Wanting one with no rust, straight body. Limited preferred but not required.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:41 pm

Yikes. Sounds like they should have paid you to take it off their hands given the amount of work needed.

Just curious, what $s were they asking?

Just looking at parts cost, you do the work, including a timing belt job and excluding windshield and body stuff I see on the order of $2,000 out of pocket right up front. Normally I'd say don't worry about "dirty" oil as diesel oil is normally that way a few hundred miles after a change but given the other items I wouldn't bet that they used the right spec oil or anything resembling a proper change interval.

For what it's worth there is an 06 Limited at Ron Carter Clear Lake Cadillac Hyundai for right about $12,000 that has a good looking CarFax service record that you might could get for like $10,500 given that it needs a TB job or at least get them to knock it down by the cost of the parts plus a bit.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 4:25 pm

Listed in Irving by Autonation.

$9395 plus TTL of $1k.

I offered $7k out the door and they turned me down. I told them I'd have to put $2k in it to bring it up to good condition, not counting body damage. Looking for a sucker, I suppose.

I am interested in the one in Friendswood and I'll give them a call to feel them out.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:48 pm

I got one!! Silver Limited with sunroof and heated leather seats. Good maintenance reported on CarFax. She's got a few more miles on her that I wanted but I figured sometimes you have to take what you can get. 133522.

Pictures to follow. Stay tuned.

I think this one might already have the generation 2 fuel filter head. Roof mounted mpg report for the last 25 highway miles is showing 30.7.

I'll be doing an oil service tonight. Air filter looks good.

I'm leaning towards a set of motor mounts and shocks already.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:03 am

Congratulations!

I'm assuming the TB has already been replaced?

Read and follow the noob guide.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:13 am

I suspect that it is. But I will re-read the guide and post these findings.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:45 am

I would not assume the timing belt has been done rather absent proof (CarFax entry, receipts, something concrete) I'd assume it has not been done.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 11, 2014 11:09 am

Fully agree and intend to investigate further. Replace if needed.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Wed Jun 11, 2014 12:01 pm

Too late but I'll add these just in case it helps someone else:

- Check for codes regardless of the state of the CEL
- Check MAF

What to look for in a TEST DRIVE

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