First oil change, GIANT drain bolt. Is this normal?

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:58 am

I performed an oil change this week and I have a concern about the oil pan. I wonder if the pan had been tapped for a larger drain plug to correct a leak.

It appears that the factory maintenance and repairs records indicate that the oil pan was either repaired or replaced.

The drain plug bolt is pretty big. It took an 18mm socket, I believe. QUESTION: Is that what you guys have?

My intent is to replace the plug with a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve. But if it's been tapped, that might complicate things.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:31 pm

Mine needs a 22mm socket to remove. I went back to the stock drain plug after my fumoto f102 started leaking. I imagine if they replaced your oil pan, then you have an oem drain plug.

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Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:12 am

Indeed the hex sizes of 18 and 22 are common. It's a surface area thing with the seal.
I won't go with the Fumoto but I intend to replace my drain plug with an internal hex drive plug - lower profile making it less obvious to rocks and vandals letting the oil out - nasty sods.
I can't see the stripping problem some have had if your a bit heavy handed hold the spanner shorter or use a stubby series if your "feel" is not so well honed.
A new fibre crush washer every couple of times is a good insurance as I really object to the idea of Aluminium crush washers on an aluminium pan. That's all the take-up you need.
Lends itself to readily to a friction bind-up.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 2:37 am

Using a fiberglass gasket is a smart idea. But I dont understand why you guys don't like the fumoto valve... I had at least 10 oil changes with that valve and it's still as new, no drips and hassle free.

Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 5:26 am

As has been said in the thread already:
They CAN leak - do a search and read the tails of woe (other than on their site) and they can be released by a crazy who has it in for you sans tools. You may not even know what you've done wrong and lose a motor over it.
Yes, they are designed well and will operate satisfactorily in secure situations.
However, the main point is made well in the Fumoto promotional video where the chap does a full system drain with his bare hands. Try that with some road rage maniac who will follow you until you park and leave the vehicle unattended. Then drive 200 yards down the road and you have a dead motor. I do not like that at all.

At least with a set-screw they need to find a spanner. If I did any more off road driving than I already do I'd be cross-drilling and wiring the thing as well. If I feel a need to make or buy security nuts for my driving lights I also feel the need to secure my oil.

In my view - and this is my insignificant little view (and I am the only one who gives a darn about it), they are too easy to damage off road on these engines. They are right on the bottom of the sump, close enough to centre - not well off to the side or anywhere that might afford some degree of protection. For a car used off-road car and on public carriageways give me a washer any day.

I'm not averse to modifications to make work flow better on this car and have made numerous changes to this end but the Fumoto valve is one I just will not do but who cares what I think except me.
As a job it is not that hard in the first place even gimped and I could never understand a hand sufficiently lacking in sensitivity to strip these threads. They are well formed from the get-go.

My work notes and side-bars in my manuals list the particular tools for a given job that make it flow more easily - even sump plug sizes in AF - as well making setup and tool layout extremely logical and sequential.
This is an add-on that is not needed IMHO.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:11 pm

to DFW's original question

stock was an Allen head (forgotten the size -I've got the Fumuto) -but there were dealer replacements that were large hex heads.

stripping the oil drain plug was/is extremely common -

there's a copper washer and if you lose it and tighten the plug - it strips the first thread -

and there were only about 3 threads holding the plug in.

to replace the oil pan - you have to pull the engine and the pan is not cheap - it might be done under warranty - but I doubt an individual would.

so there are a lot of tap/replace kits sold- only way to be sure is measure.

First oil change, GIANT drain bolt. Is this normal?

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