2006 CRD only reaches 3000 rpm

rotordriver · **Joined:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:35 pm **Posts:** 44

Any idea's on why I can only get 3000 rpm. If I punch it from the start it will bog down at 3000.

mtnmed71 · **Joined:** Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:17 pm **Posts:** 20

Sounds like what mine did when I had a split in my driver's side intake hose.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

You need to read the stored fault codes. It is in limp-home mode and could have many different causes.

Billwill · **Posted:** Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:12 am

mtnmed71 wrote:

Sounds like what mine did when I had a split in my driver's side intake hose.

Yep I had this with one of my CAC hoses splitting and then some months later one of the hoses popped off with the same result. Worth checking this first and then get codes read. :wink:

rotordriver · **Joined:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:35 pm **Posts:** 44

Even in park or neutral full throttle is only 3000 rpm.

rotordriver · **Joined:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:35 pm **Posts:** 44

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

You need to read the stored fault codes. It is in limp-home mode and could have many different causes.

Who has the best code reader? Oreilly's doesn't seem to work.

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:53 am

Green Diesel Engineering.

Usually your local Stealership will scan it for free.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:29 am

Just a reminder that the GDE scanner will read codes stored in the ECU not other places such as the transmission control module (except the generic P0700 ECU code that just means the TCM has stored codes) and the same is true of many/most other readers. DCJ readers will read all codes as will some higher end after market readers.

You might want to pull both CAC hoses and check for splits/leakage and try the boost pressure solenoid bypass first though as both are quick an easy and free.

click23 · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 9:22 am **Posts:** 308

papaindigo wrote:

You might want to pull both CAC hoses and check for splits/leakage and try the boost pressure solenoid bypass first though as both are quick an easy and free.

And that little short hose that goes from the air box to the turbo. It needs to be completely removed from the turbo, the failure tends to be under the clamp. If this hose has not been replaced, it should be checked as it is a high failure % part.

rotordriver · **Joined:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:35 pm **Posts:** 44

Can someone tell me where the "boost pressure solenoid bypass" is

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:19 pm

rotordriver wrote:

Can someone tell me where the "boost pressure solenoid bypass" is

It is a test procedure to bypass the solenoid to see if it is bad: :roll:

view at: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348

rotordriver · **Joined:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:35 pm **Posts:** 44

no difference with the boost pressure solenoid bypass

rotordriver · **Joined:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:35 pm **Posts:** 44

This thing runs just fine right up to 3000 rpm where it acts like it hits a rev limiter.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:16 pm

Have you checked the other sensor on your air filter box below the MAF sensor? If it gets loose it has been known to cause issues.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2014 3:54 pm

Meh, it barely makes any extra power above 3k anyways so you dont need that last 1k rpm.

rotordriver · **Joined:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:35 pm **Posts:** 44

Also if you floor the throttle it will go to 3000 rpm but will not shift until you let off the throttle.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:12 am

rotordriver wrote:

Also if you floor the throttle it will go to 3000 rpm but will not shift until you let off the throttle.

Is that starting from a dead stop?
How fast are driving when at 3000 rpm?
Are you using a Ram Hemi TCM or GDE transmission tune?

How long have you had your CRD?
Has it always behaved this way?
What was it like before you noticed these problems?

Head413 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 25, 2014 10:46 am

I'm having the same issues as the original poster.

Right off start it will run fine for a bit. Once it warms up it starts doing the 3000rpm thing.

Shop said its throwing a EGR stuck open code. Options?

It was running fine. I had just gotten it back after the timing belt/water pump/thermostat service.

Maybe now that it can actually reach operating temp its chocking on the EGR crap.??

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:19 am

Head413 wrote:

I'm having the same issues as the original poster.

Right off start it will run fine for a bit. Once it warms up it starts doing the 3000rpm thing.

Shop said its throwing a EGR stuck open code. Options?

It was running fine. I had just gotten it back after the timing belt/water pump/thermostat service.

Maybe now that it can actually reach operating temp its chocking on the EGR crap.??

Block the EGR with a plate? I dont think the engine would self limit because the EGR is stuck open, maybe its just suffocating because the amount of exhaust recirculating into the intake if it truly is stuck.

rotordriver · **Joined:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:35 pm **Posts:** 44

flash7210 wrote:

rotordriver wrote:

Also if you floor the throttle it will go to 3000 rpm but will not shift until you let off the throttle.

Is that starting from a dead stop?
How fast are driving when at 3000 rpm?
Are you using a Ram Hemi TCM or GDE transmission tune?

How long have you had your CRD?
Has it always behaved this way?
What was it like before you noticed these problems?

You can have the vehicle in park and rev the motor and it still stops at 3000 rpm.
Stock motor, no tunes
Owned since new
has done this since tbelt replacement
before tbelt sometimes it would do this while driving and all of a sudden "bam" it would work like brand new. Like something would pop.

2006 CRD only reaches 3000 rpm

Who is online