could a crimped ehm cause the p0299 code? (low pressure turbo) I don't see how but??? I checked all hoses and they look ok. I removed the small filter under the air cleaner to see if that helps. Jeep is a 05 with ehm other than that stock! new torque converter, pump, filters and shift kit next month. HELP PLEASE. light came on last month but then went out now back on, tried to reset it but back on after 10 miles. How about water in fuel? this seems to happen when fuel is below 1/2 tank I try to keep it full to 1/2 always???? HELP PLEASE you people are the experts!

PS
power is good no change from normal, engine runs smooth and strong.

disconnected battery last night and cel was still on this morning???

As you've been so avoided after a week:
Listed most likely to least likely:
I assume from what you first posted that you've checked for splits in CAC hoses.
Have you checked the MAP for cleanliness/correct function (boost Pressure sensor)?
Air filter for flow/ cleanliness.
Air restriction - and this applies all the way from air intake at the front to the elbow after the Flow Control valve. If she's travelled an appreciable distance this may well be coked up.
Check for blocked Boost Pressure Solenoid Air Filter.....I hope this isn't the one you've removed?
Boost Pressure actuator function.
Turbocharger.
No capacity to regulate the pressures within the crankcase may give some grief.
It does need to eventually vent to atmosphere / or form a closed circuit.
You'd surely notice driveability issues with WIF and if the sensor is connected then you'd be getting a message on the instrument panel.
If WIF is an issue have you considered changing the fuel filter - or draining it into a glass jar to see what comes out?
That will answer that for certain. If any is present keep draining.
Keep draining repeatedly after priming up until none then change the filter.
I would suspect the Boost Pressure Sensor Signal Circuit to be shorted to Voltage as it has repeated or Ground.
Resistance to ground > 10 Ohms - find the cause.
Volts to pin #4 > 1.0 V (see FSM for specific conditions for testing setup) re key on engine off etc and relays in or out.
I could type it out but you should be able to find it.
Also check that the turbo inlet/outlet hoses are connected properly and not blocked.

Also it could be worth checking the wiring integrity to and from the Boost Pressure sensor.
Good luck.

thanks for the suggestions I will work on all of these. Where is the boost sensor located?

Auberon has a lot of good ideas to which I'd add
1. that tiny boost pressure filter that hangs from the vacuum tower can certainly be pulled to check if it's clogged, if so should be visible, but don't run far without it.
2. boost pressure solenoid and bypass see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348
3. to check for sticky turbo variable vanes per GDE "By-passing of the on/off solenoid is very straight forward. Trace the vacuum line output from the black plastic reservoir to the input of the on/off solenoid. Remove this vacuum line and plug it directly into the turbo EVM on the port labeled "VAC". The turbo EVM is the one with the blue rubber isolator and vacuum line running directly to turbo."
4. topan traced a P0299 code to melted vacuum lines inside the silvery heat resistant tubing where those lines run thru the tubing past the exhaust stuff under the coolant tank and behind the engine.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Sorry for slow response.
The boost sensor is also known as the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure). It performs multiple roles (depends on year) and is located on the LHS rocker cover under (almost) the wiring loom support which is quite rigidly held in place. It can be moved aside to allow you to get at it. Most of us call it the MAP. It takes a % mm AF hex to undo the screw. These should be cleaned every 2nd oil change or so although it is not really listed as routine maintenance it must considered be so.
Those numbers for the wiring are for the pins 1 to 4 of the MAP (also called boost P sensor).

That little filter papaindigo drew attention to is well worth considering as a cause of your over boost as often and underboost code will pop up as well after hoses or blockages are fixed. The two sort of go hand in hand. I think the full name for that filter papa is referring to is also called the Boost Pressure Solenoid Air Filter.

These little dodads do get rather filthy and can disrupt boost response dramatically. recently suggested it to a guy here to check giving a no-boost feeling or turbo failed feeling. So his suggested check is a good one but as he said - not for long.

If the ECM records an error in this sensor, the ECM may drop into one of the limp in modes and it can feel as though the turbo has failed. For this code to be recurring, logic circles around the areas we've both identified for you - paying particular attention to the fact that the hoses are not blocked and correctly connected but they always start with the insultingly obvious.
Good luck - hopefully it's just a simple puzzle to logically plod through.

thank you for all your help! I will get to all of this this weekend!