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 Post subject: Trans slow to go into gear.
PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 10:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 4:43 pm
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Location: Victoria BC,Canada EH!
06 CRD with 133KM NOT MILES.
So the first start of the day/morning when I put the jeep in D or R it seems to hesitate and takes a few seconds before it goes into gear.
Any real reason for this? Fluid seems to be at the right level when I checked it.
Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Trans slow to go into gear.
PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 11:01 am 
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Assume you have done your timing belt job. If not park it until it's done IMHO; I know it's a bit early by miles but it's past due by age which IMHO is not much more than 6 years.

As to your tranny that's is the well known issue of transmission fluid drain back that DCJ vehicles have had for decades. Solution(s)
1. live with it - at first startup after being parked for 6+ hrs crank up, shift to neutral, hold high idle (1200-1500rpm), shift into gear and drive. If it still hesitates on any given start repeat. You don't always have to do this as the problem can be intermittent; if so whenever you get the hesitation do the idle step.
2. hope the issue is the tranny filter drain back valve, which it often is - service tranny with name brand filters (both of them) and ATF+4 fluid. Problem may go away per an old TSB on the subject.
3. might be transmission pump leakdown due to wear - long term solution is to replace with upgraded pump but that means pulling tranny which I wouldn't bother to do unless replacing torque converter. So if 1 doesn't do it 3 sure will but before going that far do 1 while you collect $s.

I lived with 1 for ca. 20k miles until SunCoast did a torque converter and Transgo kit install. No problems since

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 Post subject: Re: Trans slow to go into gear.
PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 11:07 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
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Location: Green Cove Springs FL
Its just one of those wierd quirks that can be classified as "normal."
It happens to me too.

It seems that after being parked for a while, all the fluid drains out of the case and into the pan.
Which means some check valve somewhere isnt working.
Many have had this problem and a few have tried to fix it, but as far as I know, no one has
been successfull.

The only solution I know that works is, before you drive off, put the trans in N and let it idle for
a min to allow fluid to be pumped back up into the case. Then put into D or R and everything
should work fine.

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 Post subject: Re: Trans slow to go into gear.
PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:11 pm 
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Location: Victoria BC,Canada EH!
Great thanks for the tips, just wanted to make sure that I wasn't hurting anything or going to kill the trans.
Oh and yes will be doing a TB soon, before summers end.


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 Post subject: Re: Trans slow to go into gear.
PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:59 pm 
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The shift to neutral trick at first startup does work! Another trick is to slightly overfill the tyranny with ATF+4 so the level is slightly above the full mark when cold. This seems to help the hesitation at first startup after setting for awhile.....
It seems to be a common problem with these transmission in all Chrysler products....
:SOMBRERO:

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 Post subject: Re: Trans slow to go into gear.
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 2:53 am 
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Drop pan and replace both filters. Refill with fresh fluid and your problem should go away. Drainback issue or cracked at seam flat filter not uncommon.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=72451


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 Post subject: Re: Trans slow to go into gear.
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 10:08 am 
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Drewd wrote:
Drop pan and replace both filters. Refill with fresh fluid and your problem should go away. Drainback issue or cracked at seam flat filter not uncommon.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=72451


x3. Make sure you get the newest Mopar units for the filters. Mine had this issue a few fluid changes ago and it seemed to correspond to the period during which I had done my own filter change with some "OEM spec" filters I bought online. Also, whether you do it or you pay a shop, make sure they use actual Mopar (or valvoline, as it's the OEM) for ATF+4. It really does work better than the no-name ATF+4 and it's not that much more expensive every 48280 ks (see what I did there :)

Apparently when you pay for the Mopar label, you're paying for the lack of drainback :wink:

Dan

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