Head Gasket Leak

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 06, 2014 12:18 pm

flman wrote:

funnyman06 wrote:

Hey Guys,

Question for you. As Ive been tearing into things Ive found that I want to bypass the EGR Cooler. Jeep already have GDE Tune on it, but I want to know if most people bypass the cooler or plug the line in the head and get rid of the Y connector at the waterpump? I just purchased the Liberty Intake Elbow kit, hopefully have it by end of week, guess we will see. Also while taking apart the intake elbow i found an gasket leaking oil all over the back side of the intake, and when I pulled the EGR tube off the intake and cooler it was pretty gross inside, not sure yet if that was my issue, hopefully ill know soon enough. Crossing my fingers

I did just that, bypassed cooler, plugged head and got rid of the Y. You need this plug M12x1.5 drain plug with copper washer.

Here is a write up on doing from Catcrd:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=75401&p=792398#p792398

I too, removed the EGR and Cooler and all associated parts, plumbing and hoses. I simply cut and plugged the hose where it comes out of the head and replaced the Y with a straight connector. :BANANA:

That plug is one pain in the rear to get to....
Some on here like Geordi suggest keeping the hose from the head and connect it to the Y bypassing the EGR Cooler to keep additional flow of coolant through the head.
Your choice! :juggle:

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:38 pm

Be sure to scan and see what the code/s may be. You may have something other than the code caused by removing the EGR.

(It is definitely easiest to have Keith reprogram, but anyone who happens to have an SEGR installed [like me] that is disabled with the bypass plug, just reconnect and clear the code. SEGR will keep it from coming back.)

DOC

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

True I should really go back through it and make sure I logged everything back in. It was getting pretty late when I was putting it back together. Could have easily missed something.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Sep 07, 2014 5:26 am

geordi wrote:

As an interesting aside, I think that the CRD that RacerTracer has currently is the one that had the K-seal put in the engine. His leak is actually in the heater core (confirmed by sweet tasting drain tube outflow) rather than in the head gasket. The heater core is actually a much more reasonable place to have a leak, as they are not made to the same tolerances as the head gasket.

The interesting part: His CRD is actually the quietest engine I have ever heard, and he said it became much quieter after the K-seal was used.

I have no explanation for this, other than some interaction between the K-seal and the backsides of the cylinder liners, which are in the water jackets.

I don't know if my TDI is a wet sleeve engine as well, but if K-seal quiets the engine down and makes it run smoother, that might be worth a try in the CRD anyway. Draining the system is easy enough with the drain nipple on the radiator.

I would like to explain why my engine is as you say "the quietest I have ever heard"

1. After the dealer replaced the torque converter and reprogrammed the ECM and the TCM, the engine ran noticeably smoother and softer. I do believe that the new OEM Torque converter and the new TCM programming was the main cause of the reduced noise to my engine.

2. I used K-seal as a possible remedy to seal a heater core leak. Presently the leak is fixed, but the K-Seal had to be left in the system for over a week or more and it didn't clog the radiator as someone mentioned.

I've also experienced a more quieter and smoother engine, even more than before. The K-Seal Rep said that it seals head liners and a smoother running softer sounding engine is noticeable after using K-seal.

You may want to try it, but if you do, remember that it will need to stay in the system for many heating and cooling down cycles.

The K-Seal rep indicated that in difficult cases it would take many heating and cool down cycles in order for the K-Seal to work properly.

It didn't clog up my cooling system, even after 3 months.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

So i just purchased ARP studs, new rockers, and a timing belt from ID parts. $830 later and it should be here Tuesday. I'm ready to get this beast on the road. Ill order the gasket when the head is off. Pretty sure i saw only one hole when I was installing the weeks elbow kit, but i would hate to jump the gun and be wrong.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

Heck yea, go IDparts. Ordered on saturday and here on tuesday. Studs, rockers, and timing belt have arrived.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

So i have after all of this the headgasket was still 100%, however... I have at least 1 cracked liner. Someone please school me on how big of a deal this really is? Im crossing my fingers the pistons are good, at 200+ a piece I'm not really in the mood.

Thanks!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:20 pm

Just because the head gasket looked good does not mean it was not leaking.

Are you absolutely sure you have a cracked liner?
If so, be prepared to pull the engine.
New liner and piston should be replaced as a pair.

greiswig · **Posted:** Wed Dec 17, 2014 1:29 am

flash7210 wrote:

Just because the head gasket looked good does not mean it was not leaking.

Are you absolutely sure you have a cracked liner?
If so, be prepared to pull the engine.
New liner and piston should be replaced as a pair.

Assuming everything else is in top shape and he wanted to get by, couldn't he just replace liner and rings, not the whole piston?

Still, by the time you're in that far, replacing all rings, all sleeves or honing sleeves, plus all bearings and seals down there would be very tempting. But I've done low-end rebuilds using the old pistons.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

Plan of attack is pull engine, pull liners and see where we are. If the block and pistons look good, itll get new rings & liners and will go back together.

One thing that was brought up, and ive done a little research into this before but didnt really get anywhere. We are looking at deleting the EGR system completely and blocking it off at the exhaust manifold. Do i need to an SEGR to keep from getting a code? I already have the GDE eco tune (which requires an update to get rid of the check engine light for the FCV missing).

flman · **Posted:** Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:50 pm

funnyman06 wrote:

Plan of attack is pull engine, pull liners and see where we are. If the block and pistons look good, itll get new rings & liners and will go back together.

One thing that was brought up, and ive done a little research into this before but didnt really get anywhere. We are looking at deleting the EGR system completely and blocking it off at the exhaust manifold. Do i need to an SEGR to keep from getting a code? I already have the GDE eco tune (which requires an update to get rid of the check engine light for the FCV missing).

I cut the end of the stainless steel tube that goes to the exhaust manifold, pinched it and welded it shut.

When my FCV went bad I just unplugged it with the GDE tune, no update needed?

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

I specifically mean getting a code for no longer having the EGR valve in place. Its taking up space and currently does nothing for me. I want to pull it off the block and gain all that room to work on it if needed.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:08 pm

With a correct tune, and there are several available, you can get rid of the the EGR, EGR cooler, and all associated plumbing and the FCV if you have a Weeks elbow kit to install to replace the FCV. Ask me how; been there and done that well over a year ago! I have no EGR, FCV, or any associated plumbing and NO DTC! (check engine light)
Want more info, just ask....
There are several tunes available on this forum if you are willing to do-it-yourself and save a bunch of $$ that you can use for other things... :BANANA:

For Tunes, read this thread:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

flman · **Posted:** Fri Dec 19, 2014 7:48 am

funnyman06 wrote:

I specifically mean getting a code for no longer having the EGR valve in place. Its taking up space and currently does nothing for me. I want to pull it off the block and gain all that room to work on it if needed.

You already have the GDE tune, so you should not have any CEL.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

so the head is cracked between cylinders 2 & 3. Does anyone know the best place to get a new head for the Jeep or does anyone have one lying around.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jan 05, 2015 6:16 pm

Not cheap but good http://idparts.com/catalog/index.php?cP ... 16299e888e

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

Yeah, so far ID parts is my plan. Unfortunately i have to buy a new head because my head is not a good core

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

So its currently the last week in February and I still don't have my jeep back, it's been 4 months since it left my hands. At this point I am just about ready to take the jeep back and finish it myself. However I had a few technical questions for those who have some experience. I currently have no idea what state the engine is in. My plan is to stop by the shop tomorrow to check it out and see whats what. For planning purposes im going to assume the old sleeves are out and all of my new parts are sitting in their respective boxes still.

For this project I need to replace all 4 cylinder liners, add new rings and bearings to the pistons/connecting rods. Then reassemble the rest of the block. While im pretty sure Ill have no issues from the head up, I do have some concerns about setting the bottom end up. Specifically getting the liners in and protrusion set properly, then verifying the correct head gasket for the engine. The engine was previously a 1 hole head gasket, however with the new liners I'm hoping this stays true. I have looked through the FSM and have an idea of what is needed, but are there any gotchas or special tools that are needed to get the job done.

If it all looks good, I might be ready Monday to bring it home.

Thanks!

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

So I've just about had it with this engine... I want to give up and burn the thing to the ground. I just received word that my new rings don't fit my pistons... Knowing I purchased everything from idparts I go over to the site and find a disturbing note.

The rings for my 2005 2.8L are no longer available, the new rings only fit new style pistons. You must get new pistons if you have the old style. At the tune of $250.00 a piston. Plus the new rings. This engine build has cost over $5000 in parts alone. It's insane.

So I'd like to ask if anyone has new old style rings in stock or something, I'd just about give a kidney to get them from you. Or if you have good, new style pistons I'd be interested in making a deal with you.

Thanks

Head Gasket Leak

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