►► 05 CRD, 2 brake calipers overheating (not seized tho)

supak111 · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:04 pm **Posts:** 3

Hey guys my dad has a 05 crd and the two wheels only (front pass, and rear driver) brake comes on by it self as you drive and the brake calipers of course start to overheat unless you pull over. Now I know that brake calipers are NOT seized, i've check which makes me believe its something to do with ABS or ESP stability control system being retarded as I've see it happen on Audi's.

Can't seem to find any info on this, I think taking the fuse out of the ABS system fixes the problem but I'm not 100% sure thats what fixed it one time.

I know Audis and other German cars have a few g-sensors for the stability control does the CRD too? What could be causing this problem? Is there any way to run a diagnostic on the ESP with out expensive equipment? His ESP light does NOT come ON when you first turn the ignition to ON position, shouldn't it?

Any help or suggestions are much appreciated :-)

so thank you in advance

PS he loves the truck and wants to keep it but theres always some little thing acting up.

EDIT: There are no lights on the dash and the ABS light does work, it turn on/off on start up.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:47 pm

Don't really know, but the 2005s didn't have ESP.

supak111 · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:04 pm **Posts:** 3

didn't know that, that eliminates the ESP being the problem.

ABS must be the problem then, I wish there was a way to test for codes but I have a suspicion that it could the the ABS computer since there is no ABS light on the dash.

My dad just told me that the brake paddle gets super hard when the problem is happening, goes back to being soft when nothing is wrong. Few hours ago it happened, he made it home, turned off the car for about 2 hours and when started it back up it was fine again. This happens only like once every 3 weeks.

tZac · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:37 am

It is a common problem on this model. Problem is in brake caliper pin. There is some kind of rubber on it witch block caliper to move and block disk pads which generates heat. The pin sleeves allow the brake caliper to float on the brake pins. when the caliper can't float, the brakes can't release after they have applied. Change that pin with new one or remove rubber from it and lubricate it with special grease high temperature resistant. Fix is very simple. There is a lot of DIY on youtube

No.1 on picture. Pls note that problem is not rubber no. 2, but rubber on pin No. 1. Only upper pin has rubber on it.

Here is repair set:

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:17 am

I had the same issue, I just replaced the calipers so it would never happen again.

supak111 · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:04 pm **Posts:** 3

Thing is my dad knows cars pretty good, he said he replaced the pads and made sure the pins where clean and float fine which they did. He still cleaned them and re-lubricated them so that why I don't get why its still doing it.

I read on just answers that it could be the break booster if all 4 wheels are locking up which I don't think its the case in our case, this is what it said:

"If the brakes are applying on all four wheels then it has to be a booster or master cylinder problem. Applying vacuum to the booster is causing the diaphragm to push on the master cylinder pushrod and apply the brakes."

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:25 pm

OP said "front pass, and rear driver" were the problem ones so it's not the front pin problem. All modern vehicles have a dual master cylinder so if one side goes out you only lose 2 brakes not all 4 and typically the brakes are paired diagonally so if you do lose one set of brakes the remaining pair will stop the vehicle without pulling to one side. Since you are having problems with a diagonal pair I suspect you have a bad master cylinder. Check with any decent brake shop to confirm.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:25 pm

papaindigo wrote:

OP said "front pass, and rear driver" were the problem ones so it's not the front pin problem. All modern vehicles have a dual master cylinder so if one side goes out you only lose 2 brakes not all 4 and typically the brakes are paired diagonally so if you do lose one set of brakes the remaining pair will stop the vehicle without pulling to one side. Since you are having problems with a diagonal pair I suspect you have a bad master cylinder. Check with any decent brake shop to confirm.

???????????????
Master cylinders are sectioned front and rear, never hear of diagonal arrangement, unless that is a ABS logic thing that I don't know about.
And then, one front wheel braking wouldn't work without pulling the steering wheel to the side.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 15, 2014 6:33 am

If that is the case then I have no idea why the issue is "front pass, and rear driver" with a hard pedal.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 15, 2014 9:06 am

Regarding the pins, you should assemble without the anti rattle band. Use plenty of lube and they will not rattle. Your problem is either the calipers or master cylinder. Most likely it is the calipers. If the pistons were difficult to retract when you changed the pads, it is the calipers. We had the same problem. We are on our third pair of front calipers in 130K. The phenolic material expands and the pistons stick. Nobody seems to make stainless pistons.

DOC

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:36 am

Hum DOC4444 makes a good point about the phenolic pistons and I have had them stick and lock brakes. Speculating a bit perhaps what is happening is those pistons are sticking and unsticking and when stuck on the down stroke the brakes drag and the pedal is hard because the piston has been depressed although I could easily be wrong.

I dug around a while back and seem to remember that you could find units with SS pistons but only for 1 pair (fr/rr I forget which) of wheels.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:43 am

Once I took out the rubber anti rattle thingy, I never have had an issue...

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 16, 2014 8:47 am

Sometimes you will get this when the rubber lines collapse internally. However, it goes away after everything cools down. Does anyone remember how much effort it took to retract the pistons?

DOC

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:02 pm

I had several problems like this. I replaced the calipers and the master cylinder. It was ok for around 40k then it happened again.

So I traded it in for a Jetta TDI!! This was the last straw with that CRD.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:33 pm

I just had to overhaul my front brakes, due to a sticking left front brake.
I wondered why I was getting excessive rusty dust on my left alloy wheel.
The inner pad of the left front had gotten cocked and was wearing badly at an angle.
The pad ears were frozen in those stainless clips. Had to beat the old pads out with a hammer.
Upon further investigation, I think the problem was excessive rust in the channels where the clips go forcing them against the pad ears preventing movement.
Winter time road salt sucks. And, I do flush my wheels and brakes often in the winter.
After sandblasting the caliper adapters and refreshing with new hardware and pads and rotors, everything is good.
The calipers were fine and free, I also took the time to pump new fluid through the system.
Now to do the rears before State inspection time this month.

SBrooks · **Joined:** Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:30 pm **Posts:** 85

thermorex wrote:

Once I took out the rubber anti rattle thingy, I never have had an issue...

Are you referring to the rubber sleeve that is on one of the caliper slide pins?

Steve

RockyMountainYote · **Joined:** Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:32 pm **Posts:** 77

What also happens, is the piston's boot will tear when the piston is pushed in too fast during a brake service, because it will get caught on the tool. This allows corrosion to start on the piston. The reason it doesn't seize until it has been driven, is because there is still piston to caliper clearance. Once warm though, the piston expands and gets stuck due to said corrosion. Peel the piston boot back carefully and examine it to check for this, or just examine for tears and replace the caliper anyways!

SBrooks · **Joined:** Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:30 pm **Posts:** 85

SBrooks wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Once I took out the rubber anti rattle thingy, I never have had an issue...

Are you referring to the rubber sleeve that is on one of the caliper slide pins?

Steve

repost of above. Can somebody answer the question?

Steve

tZac · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:03 pm

SBrooks wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Once I took out the rubber anti rattle thingy, I never have had an issue...

Are you referring to the rubber sleeve that is on one of the caliper slide pins?

Steve

repost of above. Can somebody answer the question?

Steve

Correct. Just remove it.

This black rubber

laplaya · **Posted:** Wed Sep 24, 2014 3:44 pm

I too had the anti rattle rubbers causing sticking trouble. Replaced them with liberal amounts of copper never seize.
Been fine since.

►► 05 CRD, 2 brake calipers overheating (not seized tho)

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