As I am laying under my CRD, replacing the failed/cooked Crank position sensor, it occurred to me that Jeep and VMM did a Great Job of ensuring that many of the heat sensitive parts get the most possible heat. My theory is that the people who have not had to replace these parts live in rural areas and have not had to drive in city-style stop-and-go rush-hour traffic during the summer so their CPS, etc.. never sees the heat ours do in the city.

So my question is - can we cool things down enough to prevent these failures?
The one step I took was to loosen the turbo outlet pipe clamp and change the angle of the down pipe to give the CPS another 1 to 1-1/2" of clearance. Then I had to adjust the forward exhaust hanger (adjust=bent to a new angle) to keep the muffler from rubbing on the frame. It puts more pressure on the flex pipe but should be OK.

I also removed the engine cover. I'm considering removing the sound dampening material that sits on top of the skid plate, or at the minimum, cutting holes in the dampening material to correspond to the openings to allow more air flow.

What else have all of you done? How do we cool it down enough? I'm thinking the cam position sensor is another candidate for a cooling (which is why I pulled the engine cover off). What else?

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
Thule AerobarARB53 Load Bars mounted to factory side rails via Thule Rapid Crossroad 450R
GDE Ecotune
Airtex E7181M In-tank Lift pump
123K miles as of 7/9

Your signature doesn't state where you live.
For me living in the Northeast.
I'm more concerned with holding heat in around the engine.
At least for nine months out of the year.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

With the stock heat shields in place my son's 06 crank sensor did fine in Tempe, AZ 115F+ city traffic for the 4 years he was there for whatever that is worth.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I just changed out my CPS also. It was the culprit to intermitant no start.
Although a double shield came to mind as a heat solution, I believe the location is the problem.
The CPS is sandwiched in such a way that it gets heat from both sides, albeit more from the turbo downpipe.
I don't really see an effective way to cool down the area without cooling down parts that should stay warm.

One solution that has come to mind is to wrap the downpipe. Keep the heat off the surrounding surfaces and keep the heat in the pipe.
It works well on the long tube headers on the race car so it should work here too.

I'm going to try this unless anyone here knows of a reason why I shouldn't, please chime in.

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06 CRD LIMITED- Factory Belly Armor, Hooks.
EHM, MagnaFlow SS Cat Back, FS-2500, HDS 001 TStat, Some Gauges, PML Trans Pan, PML Diff Cover, Marinco Mod, FIA Blanket, Cooper Discoverer ATR 225/75, CTS 245/70, Front-JBA 2.25" C/Os, Rear-OME HD, JBA UCA, SS Brake Lines.

I'm thinking a wrap is a good idea, too. I know there is one that posted that they wrapped the turbo exhaust outlet but I don't know how well it worked out.
It's running significantly better since replacing the crank position sensor but still runs rough when the outside temps are higher than 90 degrees which is why I am also leaning toward replacing my cam position sensor.

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
Thule AerobarARB53 Load Bars mounted to factory side rails via Thule Rapid Crossroad 450R
GDE Ecotune
Airtex E7181M In-tank Lift pump
123K miles as of 7/9