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Turbo Cool Down & 1st oil change
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Author:  cgoodspeed [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 4:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Turbo Cool Down & 1st oil change
Just bought a CRD and was perusing the user manual. They have a large table listing cool-down times for various driving conditions. Most conditions call for a 1 minute cool down (idling engine) prior to turning off the ignition. Does anyone actually sit there and remember to wait a minute prior to shutting off?

One other question being a newbie - how long before 1st oil change, and do you dump synthetic in at this time?

Thanks for the help- averaged 27 mpg driving 'er home from Indiana to NH! Put the cruise on 70 mph and drove all night! I love this thing!

Charlie
Author:  Ugg [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 5:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes, make sure you idle and cool down the turbo. Now as for the oil, (and you are going to get several opinions)...... I did my first oil change at 5K and every 5K since. The CRD comes with synthetic from the factory so make sure only synthetic is used. When you first check the oil you will see it dirty....just think what dino oil would look like.
Author:  IndyCRD [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 5:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hey cgoodspeed:

Where in Indiana did you buy your CRD (what dealership)? I just bought my CRD this past week and while searching found that there were not all that many of them around on the lots. Maybe I test-drove yours!

Chris
IndyCRD
Author:  MOSFET [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 5:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Turbo Cool Down & 1st oil change
cgoodspeed wrote:
Just bought a CRD and was perusing the user manual. They have a large table listing cool-down times for various driving conditions. Most conditions call for a 1 minute cool down (idling engine) prior to turning off the ignition. Does anyone actually sit there and remember to wait a minute prior to shutting off?

One other question being a newbie - how long before 1st oil change, and do you dump synthetic in at this time?

Thanks for the help- averaged 27 mpg driving 'er home from Indiana to NH! Put the cruise on 70 mph and drove all night! I love this thing!

Charlie


I always wait 1-2 minutes for the turbo to cool down. However, if you wait 1 minute at a light a block away from your house, count that as part of the cool down.

The CRD comes with synthetic in it and you should only use synthetic. 6,250 or 12,500 miles are the recommended oil change intervals. I do mine every 6,250.

Check your oil level on the dipstick. It will not be at the full mark. Never fill all the way to the MAX mark. The factory dipstick is mis-marked. After, your next oil change check the level and scratch the dipstick where the oil level is highest. This will be your new MAX mark.
Author:  valkraider [ Thu Apr 27, 2006 5:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Turbo Cool Down & 1st oil change
cgoodspeed wrote:
and do you dump synthetic in at this time?


Yes. The manual specs a minimum of CF rated oil. However, you want a CI-4 PLUS rated oil.

Here's why:

The API Service Ratings
info here:http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_MotorOilGuide_2004.pdf
info here: http://api-ec.api.org/printerformat.cfm?ContentID=99EAFC66-2882-41BB-84BCFB52B25D4CA3

specifically say:

    API CI-4 oils are superior in performance to those meeting API CH-4, CG-4 and CF-4 and may be used in engines calling for those API Service Categories.


That clearly states that CI-4 rated oil meets and exceeds the specs for CF oil.

Now, the CRD is a HIGH PRESSURE turbocharged DIRECT INJECTION diesel engine with an EGR system.

The CF rating is for:
    off-road, indirect- injected and other diesel engines including
    those using fuel with over 0.5% weight sulfur.


The CRD is direct injected, and does not use high sulfur diesel.

The CI rating is:
    For high-speed, four-stroke
    engines designed to meet 2004 exhaust
    emission standards implemented in 2002. CI-4
    oils are formulated to sustain engine durability
    where exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is used
    and are intended for use with diesel fuels
    ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight.


Additionally the service rating for CI states:

    Can be used in place of CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4,
    and CH-4 oils. Some CI-4 oils may also qualify
    for the CI-4 PLUS designation.


The CI-4 PLUS designation is "extra" to the CI-4 rating:
    the “CI-4 PLUS” designation identi-
    fies oils formulated to provide a higher level of protection against soot-related
    viscosity increase and viscosity loss due to shear in diesel engines.category to maintain performance.


Shell Rotella T Synthetic, Mobil 1 Truck & SUV (or whatever it is called now), and Mobil Delvac 1 all are CI-4 PLUS rated, and not only may be used in place of the required CH rating as stated in the manual, they exceed the performance of the CH rated oils - and are specifically designed for the type of motor that the CRD is.
Author:  jinstall [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 2:30 am ]
Post subject: 
OK has does this translate to ULSF like I use everyday here? The dealer here told me the best to use is the MB Syn but it is $25 a liter. I run Castrol 0W40 Race in my race car and it works great. Always comes out clean when I change every 3000 miles. There are a ton of DIFFERENT oils avalible here. SHell Rotella is not one of them. Also it ain't cheap, the Castrol for 5 liters runs me $60. The dealer also told me that 15W40 is NOT recomended for the CRD.
Author:  Guest [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 7:30 am ]
Post subject: 
IndyCRD wrote:
Hey cgoodspeed:

Where in Indiana did you buy your CRD (what dealership)? I just bought my CRD this past week and while searching found that there were not all that many of them around on the lots. Maybe I test-drove yours!

Chris
IndyCRD


FYI: I bought mine at McGonigal in Kokomo, IN. Last year they had 8 of the 2005 models on the lot in late September. Right now, they have 11 of the 2006 CRDs on the lot! (although they seem to be lower option models to keep the price down) They really roll them out! Check inventory on the first dealer in this Jeep link:

http://www-5.jeep.com/vehsuite/DealerSe ... id=u&rid=u
Author:  Guest [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 7:38 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Turbo Cool Down & 1st oil change
cgoodspeed wrote:
Just bought a CRD and was perusing the user manual. They have a large table listing cool-down times for various driving conditions. Most conditions call for a 1 minute cool down (idling engine) prior to turning off the ignition. Does anyone actually sit there and remember to wait a minute prior to shutting off?

One other question being a newbie - how long before 1st oil change, and do you dump synthetic in at this time?

Thanks for the help- averaged 27 mpg driving 'er home from Indiana to NH! Put the cruise on 70 mph and drove all night! I love this thing!

Charlie


Yes. I always look at the clock and wait for another 1-2 minutes to click by. Do this and your oil cooled turbo will last a long, long time.

For oil - dump the 0W-40 oil ASAP and put in a CI-4 PLUS rated synthetic 5W-40 oil. I did mine at 1,746 miles (when I figured out the 0W40 oil did not meet requirements for a closed diesel engine system). I would drive at least 500 miles though to take out all the metal crap from manufacturing, then drain and replace oil and filter.
Author:  naturist [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:47 am ]
Post subject:  oils & cool-downs
You have a couple options on oil, but I second Valkraider's appraisal of the 0w-40 CF vs the 5w-40 CI oils. The former are losers in this application and I'm baffled by DC's recommendation of them, the latter are the way to go. And in Wiesbaden or elsewhere, 15w-40 is a bad idea.

The turbo cool-down is a function of how hard it has been driven up to shut down, and if you roar into a rest area right off a hard-charge down the interstate, you better give it a couple minutes to cool down. But if you putter gently down the street for a couple blocks or a couple miles, and circle the parking lot a couple times looking for a space before shut down, it shouldn't be an issue.

If this cramps your style, you could install a "turbo-timer," a device to keep the engine idling for a while after you pull the key, lock up, and walk away.

Finally, I highly recommend NOT using cruise control for the first couple thousand miles. For the early initial breakin, you want engine speeds to vary as much as possible. This insures good performance later.
Author:  oldnavy [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:12 am ]
Post subject:  Re: oils & cool-downs
naturist wrote:
You have a couple options on oil, but I second Valkraider's appraisal of the 0w-40 CF vs the 5w-40 CI oils. The former are losers in this application and I'm baffled by DC's recommendation of them, the latter are the way to go. And in Wiesbaden or elsewhere, 15w-40 is a bad idea.

The turbo cool-down is a function of how hard it has been driven up to shut down, and if you roar into a rest area right off a hard-charge down the interstate, you better give it a couple minutes to cool down. But if you putter gently down the street for a couple blocks or a couple miles, and circle the parking lot a couple times looking for a space before shut down, it shouldn't be an issue.

If this cramps your style, you could install a "turbo-timer," a device to keep the engine idling for a while after you pull the key, lock up, and walk away.

Finally, I highly recommend NOT using cruise control for the first couple thousand miles. For the early initial breakin, you want engine speeds to vary as much as possible. This insures good performance later.
The reason for the 0w-40 MB 1 use is with ULSD it works well in 6500 mile oil changes and aids in cold weather starting and MPG's, in high sulfur fuell we still use in US it is marginal but should do ok at 6500 mile changes. That said the Mobil 1 5w-40 oil is a MUCH better oil for diesel useage and carries the soot much better. I use the Mobil 1 5w-40 in my CRD so I can do the 10,000 mile oil changes and have an oil that can handle the soot. No way I would use the CF oil for 10k mile oil change.
Author:  Rick Miley [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 10:38 am ]
Post subject: 
jinstall wrote:
OK has does this translate to ULSF like I use everyday here? The dealer here told me the best to use is the MB Syn but it is $25 a liter. I run Castrol 0W40 Race in my race car and it works great. Always comes out clean when I change every 3000 miles. There are a ton of DIFFERENT oils avalible here. SHell Rotella is not one of them. Also it ain't cheap, the Castrol for 5 liters runs me $60. The dealer also told me that 15W40 is NOT recomended for the CRD.

In Germany you should be able to get Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5W-40 or Liqui Moly Vollsynthese 5W-40.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productd ... Id=7009125

http://www.liquimoly.de/web/lmhomeus.ns ... ysynthetic
Author:  cgoodspeed [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 11:53 am ]
Post subject:  thanks all for the advice.
I bought the CRD at McGonigal in Kokomo. The only crooked thing they did was to slap on body pinstripes and nail me for $150 right before I flew out. The original pics they sent had no stripes. I think they were looking for a few extra $$.

Will cool down turbo. The passat I sold didn't require it.

Mobil1 sounds like the ticket as well.

Thanks for the help-

Charlie
Author:  kj lad [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 12:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
Owned turbo diesels for 20 years and had 2 go past 150,000 miles and never let the turbo cool down!

Ian
Author:  oldnavy [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 12:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
kj lad wrote:
Owned turbo diesels for 20 years and had 2 go past 150,000 miles and never let the turbo cool down!

Ian
With the weather in jolly English Isles you should never need a cool down. :wink: Actually you probably did a cool down as a lot here do without realizing they have, by slowing down for driving into the neighborhood. Normal around town should not need a cool down unless you are hotroding the thing.
Author:  grywlfbg [ Fri Apr 28, 2006 2:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yep. Unless you live RIGHT off the highway or you're towing, you'll be fine. I had a '94 RX-7 for 65K miles and never did a cool down. I would just drive it like a trucker for the last couple blocks before home. I had a boost gauge so that made it easier. As long as I kept it at negative boost I figured it was cooling down.

For the Jeep I just don't hot-rod it for the last couple miles before home.

As for oil, change to a 5W-40 ASAP. I'm running Amsoil %w-30 diesel oil but will switch to 5W-40 European car formula at the next change.

Congrats on the new Jeep!
Author:  jinstall [ Sat Apr 29, 2006 4:23 am ]
Post subject: 
I live in a small village and it takes a few minutes to putter through town to get home. I normally get off the autobahn after doing 90-110 mph so it gives it jujust the right amount of time to cool down. I have notice a big difference in fuels here as what is in the US. When I pup fuel (gas or diesel) in the US it STINKS! Here it does not stink. Also it the price is going up like crazy right now. $.15 in 2 weeks and climbing. Might see $7.50 a gallon by June.
Author:  kj lad [ Sat Apr 29, 2006 11:54 am ]
Post subject: 
You could be right Oldnavy!

Jinstall, I'm with you. In the UK we are just waiting for the £1 per litre price to come. It's currently sat at 98.9p pre litre! OUCH

Don't mean to sound condesending but for you US guys, there are about 3.8 litres in a US gallon, which means we're paying $6.86 a gallon :( This is why Europeans need diesel 4x4's! :?

Ian
Author:  Goglio704 [ Sat Apr 29, 2006 12:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
If one had an EGT gauge, would it be a good indication of turbo temp? Could a person simply idle until a certain temp was reached? Seems like there would be a correlation between EGT and turbo temp.
Author:  jinstall [ Sat Apr 29, 2006 1:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
1,159 a liter

1,1159x3.8x1,22=$6.04 gallon.

www.clever-tanken.de
Author:  oldnavy [ Sat Apr 29, 2006 1:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
jinstall wrote:
1,159 a liter

1,1159x3.8x1,22=$6.04 gallon.

www.clever-tanken.de
darn and my buddy this morning was pissing and moaning about $2.85 for gal of regular gas. And some in Washington want to cut the federal tax on fuel (about $0.20) or give us a $100, don't know which insults me worse.
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