Hi guys- Love my CRD and have been learning a lot searching through the forum. I have owned my sweet liberty 2006 CRD since mile 6 of her life. Done all I was supposed to do (I think, I mean, I asked the mechanic and paid them to do those things...) on her per manufacturer book recommendation.

But she failed me. She died. Flat out died, no power, after smoothly hitting about 65 mph, went about a mile. Engine stayed on, no warning lights on the dash until oil pressure warning. Not even fully to temp. Just started coasting like I had just taken my foot off the gas pedal.

I pulled over, shut her off immediately, no signs of anything leaking, no rat-tat-tatting, no rough running, no smoke, nothing. Suspected a computer problem so we let her chill for a few minutes and tried restarting. No joy. Turns over fine just does not fire. Seems no fuel getting where it needs to go. STILL no start 24 hours later. The nondiesel mechanic guys got her to start with "Diesel approved starter fluid" (EEK!)

Fuel filter freshly changed some 500 miles ago. Air filter, oil and oil filter changed roughly 3k miles ago. New tranny fluid and coolant within 100 miles. trailer Ebrake controller installed 600 miles or so ago, seems fine but they had problems finding the 'should have been prewired' wire so they ran another one for the brake controller.

Tows my 2000lb camper like a champ, just did with no problems. Was running power service diesel cetane boost stuff in the three fill ups before this last one. She had a nearly full tank of fuel that was certainly taken out of the diesel pump.

She only has 78k miles on her. Timing belt was in the future but had not been done. Inspection of the belt says all is fine there.

ONLY problems I have every had were from my own naive neglect (newbie diesel owner, did not realize I need to change the fuel filter, she went some 35,000 miles on the factory installed one before she let me know it by running real rough, scared the bajeezus out of me!.) and ghost ABS/ EBS/ Trac control lights on after a rain or driving in slushy snow. Mechanics have looked for the cause of the problem with no luck, thought we got it with a replaced wire but it came back. Throws a code for a sensor that has been repeatedly replaced and swapped with the other side rear speed sensor.

Anyone have any thoughts on the source of my sweet CRD's current "no-go" troubles?

Yes, sounds like a fuel supply problem.
Could be that you got a bad tank of fuel and it crapped up your filter. It happened to me.
Could also be a air in fuel problem. Push the plunger on top of your fuel filter. If you are able to pump it easily you have air in the fuel system. A new upgraded fuel filter head assembly is available from the dealer.
Adding a lift pump to the fuel system couldn't hurt either.

Of course, if you check engine light is on, have the codes read and let us know what they are.

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U.S. Army Retired

2006 dash lights, probably the harness for the rear wheel speed sensors.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, SAMCO CAC Hoses, GDE Eco Tune

Yes check for air in the fuel filter...pump the plunger a few times....ideally get a newer Racor Filter Head fitted....read SAMS NOOB Guide here for more info!

You say it turns over fine but does not start....any lights on the cluster such as the Red SKIS anti-theft on the left of the cluster.?

Check all fuses....inside the cabin and also the fuse box under the hood.

Any Trailer Tow package may cause problems so maybe you need to disconnect it for a while?

Try swapping over the Auto Shut Down (ASD) relay as you see marked on the lid of the fuse/relay box under the hood. There are other identical relays next to it you can swap out with. You can try briefly jumpering pins 30 to 87 inside the ASD Relay Socket to see if this fires it up.

You will need to get codes read out by someone with a good code reader.

One very bad problem with the USA 2006 CRD is that there is a good chance that the cable harness under the fuel head mounting bracket may be getting clamped down to to the chassis underneath the mounting bracket...you need to pull off this fuel head mounting bracket and look for damaged wires in that area!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Do you have the updated fuel filter head assembly?

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sold...05 CRD Limited, GDE Hot Tune, Euro TC, ARP Head Studs, Intake Elbow Kit, Samco CAC Hoses, Etecno 7v glow plugs, OME 790 and Bilstein 916 up front, OME 948 and OME N132L rear, JBA Upper A-Arms, 245/75/16 Duratracs on Moabs, Renegade roof lights, Curt Front Hitch, BTF Kryptonite Diff Cover, JCR Stage 2 Rock Rails, Skid Row Skid Plates

whoa.. so, mechanic is telling me fuel injection pump failure. Need to replace at a cost of $ridiculous. does this sound right guys? This is a big part cost and I am struggling to see how this pump could just flat out fail. But what do I know?!?

Jeep is stock, no modifications made.

i am going to get the codes and talk about these items you all brought up. I am trying really hard to understand. I see the Mopar/ Bosch numbers (thanks CMPFIT) and that might save me a few thousand.

thanks guys. hard pill to swallow...

***Correction and codes****
Further investigation and we have a bad fuel pressure solenoid- throwing a history code of P0093- FUEL RAIL PRESSURE
MALFUNCTION POSITIVE PRESSURE DEVIATION.

No other codes.

First question, where are you located?
Next, I doubt very seriously that you have lost an injection pump, they just very rarely go bad unless there is a major fuel problem.
Your problem like others have said on here is probably a lack of fuel supply to the injection pump or an electrical issue.
Pump up the fuel head on the fuel filter till it is very tight. Try bleeding it to make sure there is no air in the supply side of things then pump it up again till it is tight and try and start motor. If no codes are present, you most likely got air in your fuel supply to the injection pump??? Could be a bad fuel head if you have not replaced it with the second generation version!
Keep us posted, lots of very helpful members on this forum who are willing to help and advise!

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

thanks for the reply- I am located in Colorado, Boulder specifically and I am working with some good guys that are honestly helping me. but given the rare nature of this beastie, I want to be informed.

Primed fuel, opened bleed, no air.

and ps- this forum is AMAZING. I am reading reading reading reading and then some more reading. At 78k miles I am aware I am out of my grace period on this engine and my negligence is coming back to get me.

I don't know this place but it was in the mechanics list



might be worth a call

and Billy's been on here- a bit down the road

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

1st Guess: I'm betting on air in the system and/or a clogged fuel filter. However, seeing that you are from Boulder, have you been running used vegetable oil or biodiesel for fuel? Could their be granola clogging the airfilter?

2nd Guess: Crank Position Sensor


Good luck!

As BillWill said. Check the harness that goes under and behind the fuel filter head mounting bracket.

They don't get pinched but instead rub on a sharp edge of the bracket.
It seems on the 06 model year they raised the bracket to clear the abs pump that has traction control and the harness is no longer located where the bracket has a section folded out for it.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

The high pressure fuel pumps do go bad, I know for a fact they do... You need to have the rail pressure tested to see for sure. Should be at least 4-5k PSI while cranking. If not, the injectors won't fire and no start.

Thoughts:
1. PM or email Sir Sam who IIRC is in Fort Collins
2. clogged fuel filter - replace
3. air in fuel - bleed
4. bad crank position solenoid - can be tested with a volt/ohm meter and a hair dryer
5. there are a couple of solenoids on the fuel rail that can prevent fuel pressure from building particularly the one that dumps excess fuel back to the tank which can stick open in which case the fuel pump effectively just recycles fuel back to the tank directly
6. could be plugged at the fuel tank end - might try pumping a fair amount of fuel out of the filter head or carefully crack the fuel line (check with geordi) IIRC to the #4 injector and bump the starter to see if fuel flows that far.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Status update??

Hey guys.

Status update brings no good news.

Fuel pressure solenoid arrived and changed. Now some fuel is getting through the rail but not nearly enough for the injectors.

I keep stressing the electrical but am repeatedly assured it is the high pressure fuel pump. Which returns us to a ridiculous part to fail and a ridiculous price to just swap for the sake of no other idea. But nicktb had it happen, it seems.

It is headed to the dealer tomorrow for a second opinion, on the current shops charge, so I figure that can't hurt.

Thanks for the update. If they are so sure that it is the HPFP (Bosch CP3), then have them put their money where their mouth is and guarantee it or you pay nothing if replacing the HPFP doesn't fix your issue.

I had similar problem and mine turned out to be a clogged fuel filter. I had a bad batch of diesel and it clogged 3 filters. I borrowed parts from Sir Sam to rule out the fuel pressure solenoid and other items.

The CP3 HPFP in your CRD is pretty reliable and shouldn't fail this early unless you consistently run fuel with lots of water and poor lubricity or run tank dry more than once.

Please contact Sir Sam. He is a CRD expert and does something that few dealerships/mechanics can do: Diagnose and fix it right at a reasonable price.

Thanks Drewd for the reply and continued advise- Sir Sam is helping me out as well in the background. I appreciate y'alls thoughts.

Hey guys,

Todays update after going to the dealer is that the other shop only replaced two of the three sensors (solenoids?) in the fuel rail. Replacing the third (ALL of them there) is what was required and they say has fixed the issue.

Note- the dealer mechanic said all three go at once- like one faults and that always seems to take down the other two. These are fairly expensive parts through mopar... but I hear my car is running again! i dare not believe it until I peacefully drive it away... and nothing bad happens... fingers crossed.

thanks-Tracey

Glad to hear they sorted it out for ya. Will keep fingers and toes crossed she's running right.

Cool! Sensors cheaper than CP3 pump replacement.