Used CRD

mjaegs · **Joined:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 11:17 am **Posts:** 2

Hello all,
Sorry if this is in the wrong place, I searched for the topic and came up empty.

I am going to look at a 05 Liberty CRD next week w/ 108k mi. Being new to the platform and relatively new to diesel motors I was wondering if there was anything in particular I should check for when looking at the car. I have asked if the timing belt was replaced at 100k and am waiting on an answer.

I am hoping to use the car as a sort of work horse daily driver that I can rack up miles on. It may be my diesel ignorance but I am thinking that the motor should be able handle high mileage and last a long time with good preventative maintenance. I also pull a small trailer with 2 atvs that is well under 2 tons.

Please correct me if any of my thinking is wrong and save me $6000 and a 2000 mi road trip.

Thanks in advance for any help!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 12:18 pm

See chat at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=79307&p=835217&hilit=used#p835217 and viewtopic.php?f=5&t=75105&p=787565&hilit=used#p787565 .

Get VIN number and go online at https://www.moparownerconnect.com/oc/US ... Login.aspx scroll down and look for Recall Search in bottom left. Key in VIN to see if there are any out standing recalls; will likely have the recent hitch recall

If there is no absolute proof in writing (receipts and such - "we checked it and it's ok" is not acceptable and is a LIE) the price should be discounted at least $1,500 to cover the timing belt job that will need to be done.

Other than that the normal wear items - brakes, tires, battery, etc.

PS some less than honest previous owners or used car dealers have been known to fiddle (electrical tape, black paint, break the LED) with instrument cluster lights to hide things especially the system warning lights (ex. MIL/CEL) in the dash. Check the function of all the gauges and lights by holding the trip odometer button while turning the ignition on. It will cycle through all bulbs and gauges. This is an actual function test that's separate from check light test that's run every time you switch the ignition on. I cannot find a nice simple summary of what it does in sequence but the 2006 FSM, which refers to this as the Instrument Cluster Self Test, (beginning on page 8J-65 and scattered thru various pages to 8J-87) does discuss what the test is supposed to do with respect to various lights and gauges on the dash. For 2005 owners the FSM, which refers to this as the Instrument Cluster Actuator Test, does not provide the same level of detail but the procedure is briefly outlined beginning on page 8J-8. Oddly the separate 2005 KJ Body manual does have more detail and refers to the test as the Instrument Cluster Self Test. Go figure. Per lgoodbar the analog gauge needle postions in this test are:
• Fuel: E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, F
• Temp: C, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, F
• Speedometer: 0, 30, 60, 90, 120
• Tachometer: 0, 1000, 3000, 5000

FYI if any of the cluster LEDs are not functional (i.e. broken) DCJ will say $700 for a new cluster plus labor please. DIY involves a $2 LED and a bit of solder once the cluster is pulled. I have instructions.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

With all due respect, I recommend you look for another vehicle. A high mileage CRD will probably cause you severe thinning of your wallet and lots of headaches.

My neighbor's wonder why my wife and I have 4 vehicles (no kids) and the truth is that we each have backups for our diesel Jeeps!

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 7:21 pm

This is NOT the vehicle for you to use as a daily driver, especially if you don't have a spare vehicle to use when it is down for repairs.

Chrysler did some things right with this platform, but they did far more WRONG with it.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 7:59 pm

Preventative maintenance on this vehicle includes correcting all the Chrysler factory installed problems. Such as:
Blocking or disabling the EGR valve
Installing the newer fuel filter assembly
Installing a lift pump
Replacing the turbo boost hoses
Replacing the head bolts with studs
And possibly installing a upgraded torque converter

Of course it's also possible that the crd you buy will never develop any problems and all you will ever have to do regular fluid changes and scheduled maintenance.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:17 pm

If your are not a fairly good mechanic that can perform your own repairs and maintenance and you do not mind spending a bunch of money on this vehicle, a Jeep CRD is not for you! Plan on doubling your investment costs after purchasing, we know, as some of us have been there and done that! :banghead:

Items right after purchase that will need attention are replacing the cam belt and water pump if it has not been done, and this is not an easy job unless you have a lot of mechanical experience replacing cam belts.
Other items that will need attention ASAP:
Getting the crankcase ventilation out of the turbo intake hose, know as elephant hose mod (EHM)
Disabling the ERG valve or removing it completely and the ERG cooler from the motor
Removing the FCV (flow control valve) and replacing it with a Weeks101 elbow kit
Removing the CAT and muffler and replacing it with a free flowing muffler
Replacing the boost hoses to & from the intercooler
Replacing the turbo inlet hose from the air filter box to the turbo
Adding a a lift pump in the tank
Replacing the filter head if it does not have the second generation one already installed
Install a 2 micron secondary fuel filter to protect the injection pump and injectors
Replacing the head studs with VW type and Head gasket if coolant is disappearing
Rocker arm replacement if they have a lot wear on them
Springs and shocks all the way round to replace the ageing and sagging OEM ones
Replacing the glow plugs if it still has the OEM ceramic ones in place
Change thermostat if temperature is not coming up to just below 1/2 (not cheap either)
Window regulators; they go bad a lot on these Jeeps
Change the oil and filter several times to get the oil and engine cleaned out (soot)
Re flashing the computer to get more power and /or fuel mileage
Replacing the Torque Converter with a high dollar one that will hold the torque
Replacing the front pump assemble while you got the transmission out to replace the torque converter (wear item)

Lets see, I probably missed something else???? :cry:

After you get all this done, you got yourself a pretty good little Jeep!!!! :ROTFL:

mjaegs · **Joined:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 11:17 am **Posts:** 2

Thank you everyone for the replies! Apparently I am not very good with the search because I completely missed those 2 threads.

I do have another vehicle, it's a 2014 Ford Focus ST. It's fantastic to drive and I truly love it but I've already racked up 15k mi in just 5 months of ownership because I have to travel back and forth between offices a few times per week. I was hoping to park the FoST during the winter, and drive a different vehicle during the winter. While there are far worse places to drive than Cincinnati when winter hits, we do get some occasional bad snow and ice. I've only heard good things about the 4wd in the CRD and that was my thinking. Great car for snow, good daily driver rest of year.

I am very familiar with turbocharged vehicles having spent a lot of time under the hood and am a decent mechanic, but this would be my first time OWNING a diesel. While I love working on cars and trucks I prefer to not have to too much on daily drivers. Looks like I will rethink my choice of vehicle to get me through winter and take over the heavy mileage from my Focus.

I really appreciate everyone's help and saving me from possible future headaches.

camo · **Posted:** Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:10 pm

Personal experience.
I used to have a sport and a limited CRDs. The sport is gone because wife wanted a patriot but never had an issue other than maintenance and the rear window electric motor before we sold it. I still have the limited and have not had a single major issue in 50k + miles of ownership. however, that said you will need to address the issue with the EGR immediately along with the turbo hoses. The torque converter is not a problem with all CRDs but some do need replacement and at 100k miles your CRD either has no converter issues or it has been resolved.
I think if you are religious with maintenance, know how to use tools, and can read procedural texts you should be OK and happy with it as many of us in this site are.
Unfortunately the nay sayers are the ones that always showing up first.
:JEEPIN:

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