The hatch window of my 05' Liberty CRD releases fully from the latch, but will not open beyond a certain point. This point is low enough to not give clearance for the tailgate to open. The vehicle is unlocked, and there appears to be no rust/damage to the hinges. The tailgate itself does disengage. I have tried WD40. Thank you, any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

That's the one. I only replaced the weakest side because people were complaining that with both it was too hard to close. After all this time it is to be expected for these parts to wear out. It is an extremely quick and easy part to replace.

Hexus is right assuming the window can be physically pulled to the fully open position. If not then it's possible one or both of the hydraulic lifts is bound up, try to get to the bottom and detach from the window, or one or both hinges have an issue.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I'll try it! Thank you all, I appreciate the information.

So far I'm not able to open the window enough to fully see how to disconnect the parts from the base. I put some more WD40 on it to see if I can get any more wiggle room out of it. Would it be worth putting a little more elbow grease into prying it open? Or should I not risk any further damage? The question may seem simple, but apart from changing tires, oil, batteries and other basic things, my experience is pretty limited.

it's a gas cylinder -

if the internal pressure has leaked out but the seals are still working - it'll have resistance.

slow steady pressure should open it

nothing hard - no levers - slow pressure.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

If gently but firmly pulling up on BOTH bottom corners at the SAME time does not work consider the following.

Normally when that window is unlatched it will, duh, fully open but if one or both of the gas charged lifts doesn't supply enough lift the window will pop open only about 1-1.5" which is not enough to clear the lift gate. That's what mine does and has done for quite some time. In my case the lifts have just enough "lift" left that I can then manually open the window (it will stay open in contrast to my hood which would not until I replaced the lifts) or in some cases if I pull on the gate latch it will open a slight bit more and let the gate clear.

With the window open 1-1.5" shine a light in at the lower corner. You will see the lower end(s) of the lift cylinder and the "ball" joint where it attaches to the window. Looking closely you will see a ca. 1/4" metal band on the end of the lift aligned with the middle of the "ball" joint. This is a spring "C" clamp that holds the "socket" on the end of the lift to the "ball" on the window. With careful use of a long flat blade screw driver or similar tool you should be able to pry the "C" clamp up (e.g. away from the "ball") enough to pop the ball and socket apart. For what it's worth you might try coming up from the bottom to get to the middle of the "C" clamp as there is usually a small notch there that lets you pry up the "C" clamp easily but I suspect you can accomplish the same thing if you come in from the edge and get the clamp partially pulled out and then work your way around.

See http://www.amazon.com/Lift-Supports-C16 ... 081&sr=1-7 for a picture of the "socket" end.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs