It will be available in less than 2 weeks. I'll be the guinea pig to see how long the turbo will last without a balance on the new wheel, unless I get a wild hair up my bum to have it balanced at Majestic Turbo

How easy/hard is it to get a turbo balanced, and where do you go to get it done?

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Light Khaki 2.8CRD: TJM alloy bumper; Skid Row &Asfir skids;ext. breathers; SAMCO hoses; Grabber At3 235/70/16; Fumoto; Euro TC; Odyssey PC1500;GDE FTEcotune; OME lift; lightforce driving lights;ARB diff cover;nylon fan+Hayden2905;ss vortex exhaust; Airflow snorkel; Frontrunner roofrack; rock rails

I use Majestic turbo http://www.majesticturbo.com/ They usually balance just the turbine wheel and compressor off of the center housing. I usually send them the center housing with the wheels attached and request them to re-assemble it after balancing so there's no error

The theory behind the process that I know about it is that the unit is spun up in a computer mill to some speed (I don't know how fast) and just like a tire balancing, the computer detects the wobble and knows exactly where it is located. The computer then stops the wheel at a specified place, and a milling tip grinds off a small bit of the center hub on the compressor end to change the balance - then it should verify and try again.

I cannot believe that this can be done without the turbine side attached - it would change the way the wheel performs because it changes the weight.

I disagree, I have sold many many of the dieselsite wheels. Many have bought the Riffraff and BD diesel billet wheels. 1000's sold and I have yet to see one failure. And these are on trucks building 40+ lbs of boost. And are much larger wheels, which typically would be even more important for proper balance.

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'05 LIBERY SPORT CRD
ORM AND EHM
OPTIMA REDTOP
AMSOIL
REDNECK EXHAUST MODS
GDE HOT AND ECO FT TUNES
HUSKY MOLDED FLOOR LINERS

'99 F350 CCLB SRW 4X4
AMSOIL
BTS TRANS/TC
6.0L TRANS COOLER
FULL FORCE STAGE II INJECTORS
PHP CUSTOM TUNES 6POS SWITCH
AFE STAGE II CAI
4" SS TURBO BACK EXHAUST
BILSTEINS
X-CODE FRONT LEAF SPRINGS (OEM LEVEL KIT)

The larger the turbo frame size, the lower the bearing rotational speed limit...for the most part. On some of the bigger Detroit Diesel turbos the rotating assembly peaks at 100,000-120,000 rpm. The stock KJ is at 170,000rpm and the GT17 turbo kit we sell is about 200,000rpm. Some of the GT15 units (very small) can reach 230,000rpm. The higher the speed, the more important the balance.

It will be interesting to see if this wheel does anything on the CRD. I always thought this main issue on this turbo was on the turbine side and not the compressor. Regardless of the choice of turbo, the boost has a set point value in the ecm and will only reach the set point and sit there all day. If the compressor wheel can pull more air for a given speed and try to overboost, the vanes on the turbine will compensate and open a bit further to drop the boost back down to the set point.

Turbo matching is very complicated and VM has shown they are not very good at it based on the 2.8l and the new 3.0l engine in the Ram.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
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I've found its more of a compromise, when sizing mine I was going strictly by the numbers. I reached my desired goal but driveability suffered.

I don't care what you say, all the wheels leaving Garrett factory are balanced too, but you still get it balanced as an assembly when it's together. It only costs $50-$100 to do, cheap insurance when a new turbo is $1,000+. Turbos can live a some imbalance but only for so long.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

I think their claim is that by reducing the back pressure created by spinning the turbo slower you will gain HP. Any efficiency mod instead of a Power mod. I have read that people with 7.3L PSD's have actually lost power with this but gain response.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Even if the turbo is operating at the same pressure, flow is increased with the new wheel. My stock Evo turbo made 375hp @24psi. With a larger turbo, 500hp can be achieved at 24psi because of better flow rates. Do I think my Jeep will do wheelies with the new wheel? nah, I'm more or less looking for cooler EGT's

Stuffing more air in at a given pressure is usually the reason for increasing the overall compressor size, at the expense of response time at low boost / turbo RPMs.

If this wheel can retain the responsive spooling time for a smaller turbo, but stuff the air of a larger unit, that is great - The computer will still limit the overall boost pressure, and that is fine.

I'd now be concerned that peak cylinder pressures might become an issue from too MUCH air going in and being compressed by the pistons, and the attendant fueling that must also be increased for power. Lower EGT is from leaning out the mix, so if x amount of fuel currently would still be injected (without changing the computer) based on the boost pressure, if there is now (example) 30% more air... The power should be the same, but how much lower could the EGT be? Will the drop be a linear ratio - add 20% more air at given boost, drop EGT by 20% from stock?

Completely agree Keith. The turbos don't cost me near $1000. But I'm not a site sponsor so I can't divulge that info.

What you described Keith is why when my turbo does start to go, I'll be getting rid of the VGT and going to a standard wastegated turbo. Cheaper, more reliable, and 99.9% flow more air. When this happens, I'll be sure to contact you to get her dialed in.

Most of the trucks (light duty) Dmax and the newer VGT powerstrokes get rid of the VGT because of restrictions, unless I'm dealing with a pulling truck that is confined to work stock class and we had to highly modify the VGT turbo.

Another thing I agree with Keith is the turbine side really is the main culprit of drive pressures and pushing the compressor to build boost. This is one area that Garret lacks significantly compared to Borg Warner.

Just for example an s468fmw, even though the compressor side is smaller than a GTX4294R Garret, the BW is by far a better overall turbo, builds more boost, more reliable, and flows significantly more air by volume. Plus its half the price.

_________________
'05 LIBERY SPORT CRD
ORM AND EHM
OPTIMA REDTOP
AMSOIL
REDNECK EXHAUST MODS
GDE HOT AND ECO FT TUNES
HUSKY MOLDED FLOOR LINERS

'99 F350 CCLB SRW 4X4
AMSOIL
BTS TRANS/TC
6.0L TRANS COOLER
FULL FORCE STAGE II INJECTORS
PHP CUSTOM TUNES 6POS SWITCH
AFE STAGE II CAI
4" SS TURBO BACK EXHAUST
BILSTEINS
X-CODE FRONT LEAF SPRINGS (OEM LEVEL KIT)

How do you increase flow without increasing pressure? Pressure is created by the resistance to flow, if you had a perfectly frictionless system then you would never have pressure and could flow as much as you want. When you change a turbo you are still feeding the same 2.8L engine, through the same intercooler and manifold with the same restrictions as before. It has to increase in pressure. Since our engine controls boost I dont think you can get more flow for the same PSI.

Did the evo make 375hp and 500hp at the same RPM?

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I see Dieselsite is selling a full cartridge replacement with the wicked wheel for about $500 bucks, eliminating the need for rebalance (assuming their manufacturing is good). I'm considering it as an option on a turbo with vane damage on the intake. Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this as an alternative to a $1000+ oem?

http://www.dieselsite.com/JeepCRDcentercartridge.aspx

That's an interesting alternative. Could disassemble and clean the vanes etc. While in there. I'm not sure what's all involved?? Something to look into.

Should just be a drop in after removing the old assembly cartridge, unless I am missing something. I don't especially care about a performance upgrade (and at any rate don't understand why a wheel would make a difference on a vvt...I'd think the control system would just feather the boost back down?), just looking for a work around on the price of a new turbo. I've seen cheapo looking aftermarket versions before, but might take the Dieselsite plunge.

Peak boost is only one feature of a turbocharger system, VVT or not. There are other factors. Does the wheel produce a set boost with lower outlet temperature rise or less power into the turbine side? These things will contribute to power and efficiency. Unfortunately there are no numbers or even vague claims on their product page.

Gorgeous wheel though.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Talked to them and from what I gather they are just installing their wheels on aftermarket—probably Chinese or European—assemblies. So, alas, not the holy grail of actual Garrett rebuild parts and, for my purposes, no better than just taking a chance on a $200 Chinese CHRA.