05 CRD died?

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Sep 07, 2014 12:39 pm

I wouldn't waste the energy checking the alternator at this point - the battery was full at 13 volts, so either the alternator is working fine (and it isn't the source of this problem anyway) or you have a magic CRD that doesn't need power to run.

MIL stands for Malfunction Indicator Lamp... Main idiot light is the other description. It is the "check engine" light on the dash that lights up when there is a problem and also when the key is on but the engine is not.

An OBDII scanner *should* be able to pull the codes, but some have had problems. Give it a try and see, only way to know for sure.

dslranger · **Posted:** Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:19 am

geordi, just for giggles I checked fuse 14 yesterday & it is blown. Looks like I won't get things put back together until wednesday. I'll let you guys know how it works out.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Sep 08, 2014 10:08 am

That would certainly explain dieing and no start. Try replacing the fuse and seeing if it holds. If it's an 06 carefully inspect the wiring harness behind the fuel filter head where it is known to chaff due to slight change in location from 05 to 06 model year.

dslranger · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:30 pm

I put the alternator back in last night after work. Blew 3 fuses back to back tonight when I got home. Starter barely turns the motor then the fuse blows. As the title of my poste says it's an 05.

greiswig · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:35 pm

Has the wiring harness behind your fuel filter chafed and shorted to ground? Pain in the butt, but you have to find out where the big current draw is going on that #14 fuse circuit. I assume that's the fuse you blew 3 times?

dslranger · **Posted:** Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:28 am

Yes that's correct # 14 fuse. I'll look the fuel filter head over tomorrow. I may have disturbed something when I changed the filter about 3 weeks ago.

dslranger · **Posted:** Wed Sep 10, 2014 4:41 pm

You guys were absolutely right. I found a worn spot in the wiring harness behind the fuel filter, pulled the harness away from the bracket & she fired right up. Thank you very much everyone.

greiswig · **Posted:** Wed Sep 10, 2014 5:32 pm

dslranger wrote:

You guys were absolutely right. I found a worn spot in the wiring harness behind the fuel filter, pulled the harness away from the bracket & she fired right up. Thank you very much everyone.

Good news! And that means also that it is in a not-too-difficult place to repair the harness.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Sep 11, 2014 1:09 am

The group wins again, and another gremlin is dispatched to never never land. Glad it is fixed.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Sep 11, 2014 12:58 pm

Odd for wear there for an 05 in contrast to an 06 where such wear is apparently not uncommon.

dslranger · **Posted:** Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:41 pm

Yesterday I squeezed a small bead of RTV into the worn spot in the wiring harness to make up for the small loss of wire insulation & let it cure for 24 hours. Today I wrapped a layer of electrical tape then another layer of friction tape around it. I even put a small patch of ensolite pad between the harness & the fuel filter bracket as I was buttoning everything up. I'll check the condition of the pad every time I do any service work under the hood. Drove it around the block; all is good.... I can't thank you guys enough, you're the greatest!

greiswig · **Posted:** Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:05 pm

Just FYI, you typically shouldn't use RTV as insulation. As it cures, unless it is a specific formula it will produce acetic acid, which will corrode the copper. Better to use dedicated electrical vinyl or just electrical tape.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Sep 12, 2014 12:53 pm

FYI: RTV with silicone, such as GE 25-year, will work, long as it is not used to cover large areas, particularly so on raw aluminum - I have always used PERMATEX black engine sealer on bared wiring, even in crimped connections - the crimping pressure displaces the sealer at the wire-to-copper interface in the connector, which then becomes weather- and engine-liquids-sealed - no danger of internal corrosion in the crimp, even if exposed to out-gassing that can occur near the battery

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:28 pm

Personally I wouldn't use the silicone on the wiring BEFORE it is crimped into its fittings, but squeezing it in and around the end of the fitting after is just great.

I'm also a big fan of the Permatex line for automotive uses. I used some RTV red and a piece of aluminum roof flashing to cover and seal a hole that had been punched in a non-pressure section of the transmission casing on my VW. Worked great, kept the fluid from leaking out anymore.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Sep 12, 2014 5:14 pm

I use a T&B upset-type crimptool, not the deforming-type usually found in automotive\hardware stores which would not provide adequate pressure to displace the sealant - I also recently acquired the hydraulic crimptool set from HARBOR FREIGHT which uses hex-deforming jaws and placing extreme 360* pressure on the inserted wire - it is also useful for repairing\creating steel control\brake\clutch cables, employing similar method as oem cable manufacturers

05 CRD died?

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