VM.1085

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:56 am

The elusive VM.1085...

Cheapest I can find it for retail purchase is $680.

This is rediculous.

If I had the specs, or a blueprint, or one of these things, I could have it made for less than that... probably less than $200 honestly.

I have found links to where these used to retail for $230, and I would gladly pay that for this tool, but $680, and some places like handsontool.com are selling them for $1089.21.

REDICULOUS!!!

It makes me _SO_ angry...

I've also found auctions where Miller Kit 9599 (All of the CRD tools, which I know some here have) have sold for less than $300, moreless $680 for this thing....

Anyone else share my frustration here?

I'm actively seeking one to own forever and ever, amen.

cevans · **Joined:** Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:48 pm **Posts:** 278

Equally frustrated but I use something different.

The cam locking pins take care of aligning the camshafts, so what is needed is a way to counter-hold the sprockets so you can loosen/torque down the camshaft bolt. I use a torque bar/counterholding tool to do this - its the way we've been doing it on the TDIs for over a decade. You can pick up a counterhold bar for less than $50 bucks.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 21, 2012 12:11 pm

It's a pretty little tool if horribly over priced. That said folks have used a VW gear holder tool or fabricated alternatives out of angle iron or plate iron with bolts. The only purpose of this tool is to hold the cam gears in place while the cam nuts are removed/torqued down during a water pump replacement as the cam shaft pins won't stand the torque. Hence anything that can "hold" the cam gears in place while dealing with those nuts will work just fine.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Dec 21, 2012 12:55 pm

cevans wrote:

Equally frustrated but I use something different.

The cam locking pins take care of aligning the camshafts, so what is needed is a way to counter-hold the sprockets so you can loosen/torque down the camshaft bolt. I use a torque bar/counterholding tool to do this - its the way we've been doing it on the TDIs for over a decade. You can pick up a counterhold bar for less than $50 bucks.

Agree with cevans, VW has been using a counterholding tool for years with no issue. I made mine. The most important thing is that you use some type of holding tool and ALLWAYS loosen the Sprockets, even when just replacing the belt. No short cuts.

cevans · **Joined:** Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:48 pm **Posts:** 278

kjjet wrote:

cevans wrote:

Equally frustrated but I use something different.

The cam locking pins take care of aligning the camshafts, so what is needed is a way to counter-hold the sprockets so you can loosen/torque down the camshaft bolt. I use a torque bar/counterholding tool to do this - its the way we've been doing it on the TDIs for over a decade. You can pick up a counterhold bar for less than $50 bucks.

Agree with cevans, VW has been using a counterholding tool for years with no issue. I made mine. The most important thing is that you use some type of holding tool and ALLWAYS loosen the Sprockets, even when just replacing the belt. No short cuts.

+1 for that advice.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 21, 2012 6:22 pm

I have the 1085, and while it is a nice tool, I didn't and wouldn't spend that kind of money on one. Anything that will take the strain off the alignment pins will do.

I have never owned or worked on a TDI, but I have a question for those who have. Are they dual overhead cam engines? Are the pulleys on the cam(s) keyed to the cam, or are they adjustable like our VM?

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Fri Dec 21, 2012 8:30 pm

Goglio704 wrote:

I have the 1085, and while it is a nice tool, I didn't and wouldn't spend that kind of money on one. Anything that will take the strain off the alignment pins will do.

I have never owned or worked on a TDI, but I have a question for those who have. Are they dual overhead cam engines? Are the pulleys on the cam(s) keyed to the cam, or are they adjustable like our VM?

The D24, which is a stretched VW D16 engine( 6 instead of 4 cyls) is a SOHC design; the timing belt pulley is tapered but not keyed, and the cam is held in position with a rather robust fixture that goes in a cross slot machined into the rear of the camshaft. It was easy for me to fabricate my own holding jigs for that pulley and the rear one you need to adjust the pump timing. I am cheap, and I like to make things myself, but I spent the bucks on getting the 1085, and was especially glad that I had since the pulleys are flat machined and only held by bolt torque. Also, given the length of the pins, and the resulting moment arm, it strikes me that it would be very easy to bend one, with all sorts of bad results. Now, I would not spend $600 for one either; mine was under $200, and it makes the job EASY. I am sure that people can and will do the job without this tool, and I hope it works out well, but I will use the 1085. It's supposed to be a free country so suit yourself.

SC RIGGR · **Posted:** Sat Dec 22, 2012 10:41 am

When I recently changed the TB. I replicated the TDI sprocket tool using a 4' length of Pre-drilled angle and three bolts. I cut the angle in half, joined the two pieces at one end with one short bolt and a washer between the pieces to allow it to hinge. On the free ends the other bolts went into a hole close to the end and were left to protrude from the sides in the same plane as the hinge. These long bolts fit into the holes on the cam sprocket to hold while loosening or torqueing. The crucial thing to remember is too apply force between wrench and holding tool only. DO NOT rest tool against something as a stop, I wrapped my hands around both tool and wrench to apply force. This and two Bolts, (a la http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html) I turned down using a wood lathe and files, to make the cam pins, were the only special tools I needed for a successful TB change. A hex wrench worked great for the flywheel. Just make sure the pins move freely after all is torqued down. GOOD LUCK!

LIBERTYinLIBERTY · **Posted:** Sat Dec 22, 2012 3:23 pm

Pics of you your fabricated tools would be nice to see.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Sat Dec 22, 2012 5:35 pm

I ordered the metal nerd sprocket buster tool shown in the beesville farms write up. It was only $40 and seems like it will do the job just fine. I will be doing my belt in the next month or so as I just hit 93k in my CRD.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sat Jun 22, 2013 10:41 pm

missed this http://www.westauction.com/auction/712/item/37292

Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:41 am

I went with the Gates one. It seems to be adequate - allowing versatility for other marques too.
Indeed, the 1085 is not so versatile and far too expensive and specialised for the kind of money they ask.

R2.0 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 28, 2013 2:43 pm

Keep in mind that VW does *not* use locating pins as LMW pointed out. The sprocket buster tool is fine, buy it's only as rigid as the person holding it. With the cam pins installed the user must hold the sprocket buster ABSOLUTELY MOTIONLESS in relation to the engine, or else it will apply excessive bending moment on the cam pins.

I do agree there ought to be a better way; I'm thinking something like the factory tool but using blocks with short lengths of old timing belt glued on to engage the sprockets.

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Fri Jun 28, 2013 4:02 pm

I found a universal cam sprocket holder on ebay for $49.95 that work fine for me. It was sold by el paso tools on ebay. I can try to find the model number if you like....

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:17 pm

The company for the cam sprocket holder is Baum Tools Unlimited Inc and the model number is B4500 UNIVERSAL TWIN QUAD CAMSHAFT LOCK/GAS AND DIESEL. $49.00 off ebay with $11.25 shipping and handling. Worked great for me.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:01 pm

SargeIndustries wrote:

The company for the cam sprocket holder is Baum Tools Unlimited Inc and the model number is B4500 UNIVERSAL TWIN QUAD CAMSHAFT LOCK/GAS AND DIESEL. $49.00 off ebay with $11.25 shipping and handling. Worked great for me.

Thank you very much

Tree Catcher · **Posted:** Sat Jun 29, 2013 7:06 pm

Does anyone have one that they are willing to loan me for a few days. I can make up a print off of one, mail it back. I am getting close to the TB change on my jeep and If it helps, I do work in a machine shop. I will provide shipping and when I am done we can have a print of the part so we can put it up for others to build off of it.

Sean

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sun Jun 30, 2013 8:43 am

Tree Catcher wrote:

Does anyone have one that they are willing to loan me for a few days. I can make up a print off of one, mail it back. I am getting close to the TB change on my jeep and If it helps, I do work in a machine shop. I will provide shipping and when I am done we can have a print of the part so we can put it up for others to build off of it.

Sean

Where are you located. I haven't received mine yet. But it is on it's way.

Mine might not be available in time for you.

atsiauto · **Joined:** Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:55 pm **Posts:** 30

If I buy this tool , can anyone here actually copy it ? I would like to see one in every box for you guys on the cheap , or in any event offer it up for rental on the cheap after I get through the 3 CRD Libs I have here to fix . I believe I can get it for 605.00

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sun Jul 14, 2013 10:50 pm

Tree Catcher wrote:

Does anyone have one that they are willing to loan me for a few days. I can make up a print off of one, mail it back. I am getting close to the TB change on my jeep and If it helps, I do work in a machine shop. I will provide shipping and when I am done we can have a print of the part so we can put it up for others to build off of it.

Sean

Would you be interested in cranking out any of the thermostat housings?

As soon as I get done with my timing tools I would be willing to work something out with you

VM.1085

Who is online