Just wondering what and where I should get the fuel filter. Does the brand make any difference? Any info appreciated.

Thanks,

I get mine from the local Napa store.

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U.S. Army Retired

Napa's filters are made by wix, IMO the best on the market. Carquest sells them(although only for a short time, they are changing) and so does O'riley's/Parts City stores. Some others as well.

Thanks fellas, Just ordered some wix filters Just wanted to make sure i wasnt missing anything

WIX, NAPA gold, MANN

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I like the Amsoil Eao filters. I cross referenced the bigger Wix filter to an Amsoil Ea026 for those that care to know.

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'05 LIBERY SPORT CRD
ORM AND EHM
OPTIMA REDTOP
AMSOIL
REDNECK EXHAUST MODS
GDE HOT AND ECO FT TUNES
HUSKY MOLDED FLOOR LINERS

'99 F350 CCLB SRW 4X4
AMSOIL
BTS TRANS/TC
6.0L TRANS COOLER
FULL FORCE STAGE II INJECTORS
PHP CUSTOM TUNES 6POS SWITCH
AFE STAGE II CAI
4" SS TURBO BACK EXHAUST
BILSTEINS
X-CODE FRONT LEAF SPRINGS (OEM LEVEL KIT)

I think you are talking about oil filters, not fuel?

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I have always used, and have been satisfied with the Mopar brand fuel filters.
But, I just bought two Mopar CRD fuel filters online, a week ago.
They are in fact, now made in China.
Let me know if anyone finds a USA made filter.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

The last NAPA Gold - Made in China.

I'm of the school of thought that believes these engines need final fuel filtration in the order of line 2 microns absolute and I cannot find any of the canisters that fit the stock (Mopar) heads that will do that. That includes Mann, NAPA, or any other branding.
That really leaves changing the fuel head and filter to Racor. Point of note, this was the one they originally fitted to the KJ before the USA model run whereby they changed to that Mopar head (series I) that has given folk so much trouble until they upgraded sadly, the filtration efficiency is still a tad unspecified. The in-house made filter head is cheaper than Racor. Racor is not Chinese made as I understand.

Following is from memory but I can look it up if you want verification. Sure I will have it noted somewhere.
The last Mann filter I purchased was USA made as I recall.
As nearly as I can determine Mann are made either in the USA or Europe.
Caterpillar fuel filters can fit via a little convertor nipple and may go to 2 microns and are USA made as I understand it.
Other than that, manufacturing origins are more consistently Chinese.

Did you or anybody else tried an in-line 2 micron after the stock filter? Just curious on the options and results. Also, how will it perform in the cold?

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

The NAPA OEM replacement filters are made in China; stamped on the filter.
Another option is to add a secondary 2 micron filter as some on this list have done! Everything needed except the bracket can be bought off the web or at a NAPA store including the 2 micron filter, filter head, fittings, hoses, etc...
With lots of very good information on this subject provided by Ranger1 and his advise as to what was needed, I Installed NAPA 2 micron secondary filters on both my Jeep CRD and my Dodge diesel.
This also allowed me to add a pressure gauge line to monitor final fuel pressure feeding the Bosch fuel pump...
Note: I do have the in-tank pump and pressure runs 12-15 psig consistently under all driving conditions.
Instructions are in the Tech section: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139

The OEM filter is 10 micron at best brand new out of the box and degrades from there. It will not protect your expensive injectors!!!!
http://nicktane.com/images/HDT_article_10-10-03.pdf
http://nicktane.com/images/February%20HDT%20Fuel%20Article%20Part%20II.pdf

If anyone needs a bracket, let me know, I can build them...

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

That looks like a nice setup, I like the pfte fittings, even though I think they are a bit overkill, but better overkill that lasts forever.

A question for you, what did you do with the stock wires that go in the oem filter housing? Do you still have a fuel warmer?

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

The OEM filter/water separator is still in place with the OEM fuel head and heater. Fuel goes through the OEM filter (~10 micron pre-filter now) and then through the secondary 2 micron filter before going to the Bosch injection pump.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Got it, thanks a lot. I saw the 2 micron being more towards the front of the engine but didn't see the oem unit.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I think similarly to WWDiesel and Ranger1.
Compliments on your modded fuel system.
Totally support the idea that 10 microns is pre-filter service duty.

I am currently in the process of making my own version of a package that gives me some room to mount extras under the bonnet of this thing. Luckily my first car in the 70's was a Mini Minor so tight spaces are the not new to me.
What I am doing aims at achieving the following:
1 Turning the battery through 90 degrees and beefing up those weak battery terminal connector with a solid fused quality very, very heavy duty connectors.
NOTE: I think this has a lot to do with the electrical a-stability of the ECU and other electronics on the KJ. You only have to do the maths and work out the cross-sectional area of the battery terminal connectors supplied - under high load they are VERY under-rated.

2 Adding a bracket to the filter mount that runs parallel to the C/L of the car which will carry the equivalent to a Provent (but dimensionally smaller - better sized for this motor), a bypass oil filter, a coolant by-pass filter and head and other bits.

3 Possibly some of my added-on electricals (failure indicator fuse boxes).

Of course, (as I think WWDiesel noted) I am installing a pressure gauge on the 2 micron filter also to read the state of filter load.

and a lift pump even though I don't have issues. I think it should have one for obvious reasons as regular forum readers would be aware of. That is sitting in the workshop ready to go when I can get to it.


Just as a note, the Racor filter head bolts straight in.
I had seriously considered doing the same piggy-back arrangement with the Racor filter heads hence, my strong appreciation of what you've done WWdiesel. That last photo by WWDiesel is almost a perfect picture of what I was planning for the dual Racors.

THE QUESTION OF COLD WEATHER.
I'd rather stay out of that but I've included the Racor fuel heaterin my plans to maintain circuitry and for the fact that I sometimes go to what we regard as "cold" parts. Nothing to what you guys have.
The Racor is a straight swap over except for changing to Racor connectors.

I note the comment of protecting injectors - Don't forget the low clearances in that fuel pump and otherwise. Its just aiming for that pristine engine environment in every aspect. LONGEVITY is the aim in every regard and its what I like to do.

Comment before the no photo - didn't happen comments: Serious health issues have put a stop to things for some time but that is being slowly sorted. Frustrating with this 3/4 ready to bolt in and a few other more pressing jobs to finish.

To get the filters you want it's sadly a case of shopping around.
Last Mann filters I got were (I think) from Amazon for a fair price.
I got the Racor parts from a number of suppliers including Sailing suppliers in Maine but am not sure I can help you. Can supply the details if you want them.

I've used 2 micron filters from Racor since nearly new. Only issue I have had with them is the first filter head diaphragm was not viton, so it succumbed to the biodiesel I run in about 40k miles and started leaking air into the system.

Racor makes good stuff. Not cheap, but they are good.

_________________
George Reiswig
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary