2005 Liberty Diesel Problems (codes)

Dale Reed · **Joined:** Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:32 am **Posts:** 14

My 05 Liberty CRD is throwing the following codes:
P1251, P0562, P0069, P0146, P2295, P0091, P2141, P0489, P0047, P0725, P0670
My wife was driving, all interior lights came on and it died. It will turn over, but not start. I made sure it has fuel, and bleed the line.
I am not a mechanic but can fix/replace some things.
Can anyone point me to one or two things that might be causing this? From the codes, it appears to be an electrical issue. Thanks in advance.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Oct 09, 2014 11:05 am

My initial thought is you have a bunch of bogus codes related to a bad battery and/or bad alternator that's not charging the battery. First step is remove battery and get it load tested or if you have access to a good battery swap that in and see what happens.

Dale Reed · **Joined:** Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:32 am **Posts:** 14

I placed a new battery in the vehicle. I bled the fuel line once again and primed. The vehicle will not start. It cranks, but won't start. Any ideas with the previous codes mentioned?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:50 pm

P1251 P1251-VACUUM RESERVOIR SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND.
P0562 P0562-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW .
P0069, P0069-BOOST KEY-ON RATIONALITY
P0146, not on the list
P2295, P2295-FUEL PRESSURE SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND.
P0091, P0091-FUEL QUANTITY SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND .
P2141, P2141-EGR AIR FLOW CONTROL VALVE SHORT TO GROUND.
P0489, P0489-EGR SOLENOID CIRCUIT SHORT CIRCUIT.
P0047, P0047-TURBOCHARGER BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND.
P0725, P0725-ENGINE SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
P0670 P0670-GLOW PLUG CONTROLLER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION .

I'd vote for an accidental short to ground somewhere, could be anywhere in the circuit.
places to start looking would be anything that's been worked on or moved recently- could damage a wire
a bundle of wires next to the fuel head - more of an issue on 06's but not impossible on an 05.
wire going through a firewall?
a lot of looking for stuff that doesn't look right.

Billwill · **Posted:** Tue Oct 14, 2014 9:12 am

A lot of the items listed in the codes have one thing in common...the ASD relay.

First check all fuses inside the cabin and under the hood are good then try swapping over the ASD relay in the fuse box under the hood (PDC) with an identical one nearby.....you can also try removing the ASD relay and jumper out pins 30 and 87.... for a short period.....inside the ASD relay socket and see what happens.

Do you have any cluster lights ON while turning over the engine such as the SKIS anti-theft light?

Could be an ECM problem or the Front Control Module which I believe is under the PDC on the Left Front Inner fender and is prone to getting splashed with water/mud etc.

Otherwise as stated you may have shorted wires somewhere and you would need to do some major fault finding using the circuit diagrams. :shock:

Auberon · **Posted:** Tue Oct 14, 2014 10:11 am

I don't discount what the chaps have suggested by any means - ALL good suggestions but I just have an impression from your post that:
Despite the preponderance of possible electrical phantoms in this list of codes - they may well be Furphy's.
I'd be inclined to follow the flow of thinking that:
1 if it cranks and
2 you have done the fuel filter bleed - then
3 If it has fuel and air and the ECM is functioning then
it leaves either:
Crank Position Sensor or Camshaft Position sensor for a no start condition with a new battery and strong cranking.

It could well have been the end of the battery that caused the reaction you describe in your OP and this could've resulted in the Cam and/or crank sensors just not making the grade any longer.
Perhaps testing their properties if you are so inclined might be another valid pursuit.
Good luck with it.
If you need sensor test info please post.

Dale Reed · **Joined:** Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:32 am **Posts:** 14

I have found out that the 2 year old battery that the dealership put in the jeep when my daughter was away for college is a standard battery for the gasoline Liberty's. The battery tests good, but will not turn over the jeep any longer. I've learned the battery that should go in the Jeep is a turbo battery, ie. optima red top. I haven't replaced with a battery yet but wondered if the battery could still be my problem with not starting and throwing the codes? Anyone recommend a different battery than the red top? The Jeep dealership locally said they can't find any MOPAR batteries for the diesel.

greiswig · **Posted:** Wed Oct 15, 2014 8:10 pm

No such thing as a "turbo battery." Equivalent sized diesels need more cranking power thank gas counterparts because of higher compression ratios, but amps are amps.

Check elsewhere in this very thread for some recommendations on good batteries. Is that your whole problem? Hard to say, but if you know it needs replacing anyway...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 15, 2014 8:30 pm

I went with an Exide AGM "blue top" last winter, and it spins it up super quick!
Any good 800+ CCA AGM battery by a name brand manufacturer Like Exide, Sears, or Odyssey would be a good replacement for a diesel Jeep... :wink:

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:10 pm

Sears Platinum P1

This Exide at 770 CCA isn't bad for the price:

http://www.amazon.com/Exide-FP-AGM34-Sealed-Automotive-Battery/dp/B0083C6M9U/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1413421743&sr=1-4&keywords=group+34+battery

Really, any group 34 battery you feel comfortable with that is in your price range should be fine.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Oct 16, 2014 9:49 am

See my post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=79776&p=840420&hilit=battery#p840420

Dale Reed · **Joined:** Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:32 am **Posts:** 14

Ok, I replaced the battery with a X2 AGM battery, 880 CCA's. I also found a blown fuse under the hood. The blown fuse was #16 (ASD Feed). I replaced the fuse and cleared the codes. Vehicle started and ran for about 1 block. The ASD Feed fuse (15A) keeps blowing.

What causes this fuse to blow? What is the ASD? Thank you in advance.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Oct 17, 2014 3:47 pm

Auto ShutDown but why it's blowing I cannot say. Could be as simple as a bad ASD Relay

Billwill · **Posted:** Sat Oct 18, 2014 6:17 am

Dale Reed wrote:

Ok, I replaced the battery with a X2 AGM battery, 880 CCA's. I also found a blown fuse under the hood. The blown fuse was #16 (ASD Feed). I replaced the fuse and cleared the codes. Vehicle started and ran for about 1 block. The ASD Feed fuse (15A) keeps blowing.

What causes this fuse to blow? What is the ASD? Thank you in advance.

This fuse does not actually feed the ASD relay but rather passes power to various components listed below when the ASD Relay energizes...

This fuse 16 feeds the Front Control Module....which is why the engine dies when the fuse blows....it is possible there is a fault with the Front Control Module but this fuse also supplies power to the air-con clutch relay coil, cabin heater relay coil, low speed fan relay coil and high speed fan relay coil. These relays are all mounted on the PDC where they get their feed from fuse #16 so I doubt there is a short there but it is worth pulling these relays out in case one of them has a shorted coil.
What is more likely to be blowing the fuse is where the wire from the fuse, a Brown/Pink wire, leaves the PDC it is picking up a short.
When this wire leaves the PDC it goes to the Front Control Module below the PDC on the left front fender, to the EGR solenoid, the EGR Flow Control Solenoid, the ECM, the Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid, the Boost Pressure Solenoid and finally the Glow Plug Module.

The circuitry is shown on pages 8w-10-19 and 8w-10-20 of the 2005 KJ Service Manual circuit diagram which you can download here: http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

You will need a Digital Multimeter to check this Brown/Pink wires' continuity to chassis......disconnect the battery first....assuming there is a short or virtual short then pull out all of the connectors to the above listed components to see if the short suddenly dissapears. Disconnecting connector C105/C114 as shown on 8w-10-20 will isolate some of the components and some of the wire run...the circuit diagrams will show you the location of the various connectors.

If you are very unlucky, you may find that even after pulling the connectors to all of the components listed and removing the relays listed you still get a continuity reading on this Brown/Pink wire to chassis then it means that this wire is being pinched somewhere down to chassis or to some other random wire.....I have been there, done that and got the T Shirt about 6 times with the wiring on my 2005 Export CRD after the harness got damaged somewhere up front after a front collision with a tree. I do not know about the LHD models but on my RHD KJ the wire harness does not take the shortest route point-to-point but runs around the complete engine bay like the Washington DC Beltway! :shock:

Edit to add:

The fact that you could drive for about a block before the fuse blew again would tend to indicate that there is not a firm short to chassis of this Brown/Pink wire but rather as one of the solenoids on the circuit gets energized then too much current gets drawn, unless there is only a wire shorting when you go over a bump or something. When you are testing the resistance of the complete circuit as above you may be lucky that you will pick up that one of the solenoids has an internal short to chassis...pulling the connector off that solenoid will enable you to measure the resistance from its male pins to chassis....there should show complete open circuit to chassis while between the two pins there should not be less than about 2 Ohms; 2 Ohms would mean that that solenoid by itself will draw about 6 amps already, 1 Ohm would be 12 amps or almost the rating of the fuse.
You could try driving with some of the solenoids disconnected....should get a CEL but hopefully you could drive for a while without the fuse blowing. The negative side of all these solenoids/relays gets its ground from the ECM/Front Control Module when running....usualy this ground is in a pulsed form (Pulse Width Modulation) to vary the power of the solenoid. You can test the solenoids by briefly applying voltage directly across the exposed, disconnected male pins which is best done by using the Multimeter in "Fused 10 Amp" mode in series with the + side of the battery and the positive pin of the solenoid and add a temporary ground to the ground pin of the solenoid. This will show you how many amps the solenoid is drawing...more than 10 amps will blow the fuse in your meter which to me would indicate a bad solenoid!

So download this 2005 KJ Service Manual and have a look at the circuitry and with the correct logic pages in front of you I can try help you with any further questions. :wink:

Dale Reed · **Joined:** Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:32 am **Posts:** 14

BillWill
Thanks for the information. I did what I could and took it to a dealership who has some experience with this vehicle. They ran ohm tests and tracked to a potential problem. On the back of the Front Control Module where the wiring plugs in, it appears to have melting on the back side housing where both harnesses plug in to. The harnesses look fine. They told me that when they grab the FCM plastic housing and apply pressure or try to wiggle, it blows the fuse every time. They are indicating that it appears to be the issue, but no guarantees. They say it is a $900 job for the FCM and reprogramming. Does this sound legit? Does anyone know where I can get a reasonable priced FCM?

gmctd · **Posted:** Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:49 am

Just read thru this from your FCM post - do not plug the harness connectors into the FCM B4 you test the wiring and the components on the other end of the wiring.

The FCM's position beneath the batt subjects it to weather and any battery acid spillage, which can cause havoc within the connector(s) and the FCM, but eliminate any other failure(s) first - they made only ~10000 USA KJ CRD's, and the rest of us are just as keen on keeping them running - 'nuther words, KJ CRD parts are relatively scarce and can be few and far between, like when replacing all the modules after a lightning strike.................................

Billwill · **Posted:** Tue Oct 21, 2014 3:39 am

[quote="Dale Reed"]BillWill
Thanks for the information. I did what I could and took it to a dealership who has some experience with this vehicle. They ran ohm tests and tracked to a potential problem. On the back of the Front Control Module where the wiring plugs in, it appears to have melting on the back side housing where both harnesses plug in to. The harnesses look fine. They told me that when they grab the FCM plastic housing and apply pressure or try to wiggle, it blows the fuse every time. They are indicating that it appears to be the issue, but no guarantees. They say it is a $900 job for the FCM and reprogramming. Does this sound legit? Does anyone know where I can get a reasonable priced FCM?[/

First open up the connector attached to the harness and look for bad insulation etc.

Then open up the FCM and have a good look at how things look at the input connector....probably some loose wiring or melted insulation that you may be able to fix up yourself; it may also need a good cleaning inside as it can get water and mud etc. inside! If it looks like a component failure somewhere inside the FCM then see if you can source one from a Breaker, E-Bay etc. It is unlikely a component inside has failed to the extent that it can blow a fuse as there are no actual drivers inside the module...problem is most likely at the connector connections inside the connector or from the connector to the logic board. My 2002 Export CRd does not have as many electronic Nannies fitted as the later CRDs so I do not have one of these FCMs fitted that I can have a look at myself!

The Service Manual merely states that you remove the module by disconnecting battery, remove CAC hose in the way, unclip the connectors and screw out the fasteners. Replacing the module is the reverse....they make no mention of having to re-programm the new module. :wink:

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

I thought they came ready to plug in your vehicle if ordered online. $900 is a good soaking you will not soon forget.

Get one online and plug it in yourself, it may not be an issue. If not, visit another dealer and ask for a module update, this is about $100 if the dealer is worth any salt.

Dale Reed · **Joined:** Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:32 am **Posts:** 14

Ended up buying a new FCM. Had it installed and as of right now no problems. It appears the old one was blowing the fuse. On the old one, the epoxy on the backside of the plastic housing, where the harness plugs in to, was weathered and deteriorated. Looks like that was causing the short. Hopefully no more issues will arise.

2005 Liberty Diesel Problems (codes)

Who is online