Confirmed head Gasket leak Number 3.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Oct 17, 2014 12:56 pm

WolverineFW wrote:

racertracer wrote:

I have a confirmed head gasket leak.

This will be my 3 third time on 2 separate vehicles.

1st head gasket leak occurred on my 2005 CRD Limited at 110,000, It was repaired by the dealer and the OEM TTY bolts were used along with a new head gasket.

2nd head gasket leak occurred at 113,000 miles on the same vehicle and it scheduled for the repair again. But never made it to the shop...... it was totaled when a tractor trailer dropped a 40' cargo tarp on I-95 while traveling just ahead of me. I made it out alive.

3rd head gasket leak occurred on the replacement 2005 CRD Sport that I drive everyday with 80,000 miles on it.

Confirmed Head gasket leak via visual coolant in the reservoir side of the expansion tank and the exhaust gas tester and the one minute pressure under cap test.

So here I go again.

How many leaks occurred with ARP studs installed?

None of the leaks occurred with studs installed, none of the heads had or have studs. The stud conversation on this board hadn't even started yet.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Fri Oct 17, 2014 9:59 pm

geordi wrote:

Greiswig... I'm still unconvinced about this "viton coating" that is supposed to be on the gasket.

Let me give you this confidence however: ANYTHING that you spray or paint onto the top and bottom of the gasket will increase the thickness by a matter of UNMEASURABLE differences. They want you using the factory tool to measure protrusion to 3 decimal places, right? Well, a spray coating or even painted RTV will be SQUASHED by the compressive strength of the studs, and squeezed into 5 decimal places or less of room.

I would have no problem at all with using either one, and to hell with their nanny-ness about using another sealer. Their method DOESN'T LAST based on practical real-world uses. It is the definition of insanity to keep doing it the same way and expecting a different result. We are on our own anyway, might as well make the results better and more reliable, eh?

BTW: The compressive strength of the studs that you are applying? 19,000 PSI. I wouldn't worry about any spray coating. It will be squashed to a few atoms thick, or fill in any imperfections and be trapped in those divots. Spray and play my friend.

If you use ARP studs and torque as recommended (120/130) then you will crush fit the head to the block.

greiswig · **Posted:** Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:27 pm

LMWatBullRun wrote:

If you use ARP studs and torque as recommended (120/130) then you will crush fit the head to the block.

I guess I don't know what that means, or if that is a good thing or not.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Sat Oct 18, 2014 6:50 am

It means that there will not be any gaps between the block and gasket, or the gasket and the head, barring corrosion pits.

It means that there will not be any leaks, assuming you have a good gasket.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 12:52 pm

If any of you have done the ARP stud modification and want to get rid of the two left over studs from the set, then contact me and let know what you want for them.

Thanks

Racertracer

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:36 am

This parrot picked up on my use of bad words while working on the engine.

Mimic d me to the T... have a listen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXYZttxunPw

flman · **Posted:** Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:43 am

racertracer wrote:

This parrot picked up on my use of bad words while working on the engine.

Mimic d me to the T... have a listen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXYZttxunPw

So did you round up enough ARP studs?

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:09 pm

Send a message to irwinr, I just worked on his CRD, he thought he had bad rockers and bought them and the ARP sets. We didn't need them, and he may have been planning to send them back to Corey, but you may be able to work something out for them. Still boxed and new.

RockyMountainYote · **Joined:** Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:32 pm **Posts:** 77

Be absolutely damned certain its a head gasket. Just pulled my head because coolant was blowing out of the back of it. Found no signs of a head gasket blowout on the gasket itself. Upon further inspection, I found a hairline crack on the back of the block which was MUCH more visible when you peak into the engine through the water jacket. FML.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Nov 21, 2014 12:08 am

RockyMountainYote wrote:

Be absolutely damned certain its a head gasket. Just pulled my head because coolant was blowing out of the back of it. Found no signs of a head gasket blowout on the gasket itself. Upon further inspection, I found a hairline crack on the back of the block which was MUCH more visible when you peak into the engine through the water jacket. FML.

How are you planning to fix? That sounds like it could be a candidate for stitch-welding or maybe even JB weld... Although I like stitch welding better as it is a more proper replacement of metal to metal. Moderately low voltage MIG should be enough to deal with that without hurting the block, and you are only trying to retain 16 psi, not combustion pressure, so it should be doable.

What sucks is you most likely have to pull the block to have the access.

flman · **Posted:** Fri Nov 21, 2014 8:31 am

RockyMountainYote wrote:

Be absolutely damned certain its a head gasket. Just pulled my head because coolant was blowing out of the back of it. Found no signs of a head gasket blowout on the gasket itself. Upon further inspection, I found a hairline crack on the back of the block which was MUCH more visible when you peak into the engine through the water jacket. FML.

Most of us have a pressurized cooling system from compression, rather then a leak.

Confirmed head Gasket leak Number 3.

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