Excessive CCV or Engine Blowby

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2016 4:55 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Similarities and differences with our CRD engine:
Our CRD engine doesn't have a throttle plate for producing vacuum. Instead it relies on suction provided by the turbo inlet.
Our engine doesn't have a breather inlet into the crankcase.
Our engine does have a valve in the CCV that functions similarly to a PCV valve.
1 Addition: Our engine has a mechanical vacuum pump that is continuously discharging into the crankcase adding additional flow a and loading to the CCV valve & system.

BTW, the pressure/relief valves in the provent function exactly the same (if not better) than the valve in the CCV. So, if you are using the provent you could remove the little flapper valve and spring inside the CCV.

The last one I will have to respectfully disagree with you on. The flapper in the CCV valve is constantly operating in response to the internal engine pulsations produced by the piston travel along with any vapors being dumped into the crankcase by the mechanical vacuum pump. The valve on the ProVent is a pure over pressure relief valve set to open and relieve any positive pressure in the system, it serves no other function... You can read how it works on ProVents Web page...

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2016 5:40 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Does the f150 have a vacuum pump exhausting continuously into the engine cavity like the VM motor does?
I do not worry so much about the freezing aspect in my part of the country, but I do understand the need for the slightly negative pressure provided by the suction of the turbo inlet on the CCV system. I actually ran an EHM myself for a while early on, but I did not like all the visible smoke vapors coming out of the EHM when I pulled up to a stop at idle (also not good for the environment)... :roll:

I even had one guy point out to me in a parking lot and tell me my car was smoking!!! :ROTFL:

I remember someone on LOST a year a two back reporting their EHM mode hose froze and blew out their rear main engine seal. :shock:

You do not want positive pressure to build up inside the engine block, bad things can happen! A good reason for a pressure relief valve on the ProVent system!

If you want to run an EHM, it's your vehicle, do as you please, it is just not for me and I think there are others on this forum of the same opinion who would advise against it based on all the information we are now aware of!!!
To each his own, you are your own warranty.... :wink:

You know I couldnt tell you for sure about the vacuum pump, but I can tell you that the ecoboost is in boost a pretty significant amount of time seeing as its only 3.5L and is hauling around a 6500 lb truck so it definately has one just not sure where it vents.

I have had similar experiences with the EHM. One thing I have to wonder is if people put a low point somewhere in the EHM hose where stuff can collect, or maybe didnt route it well. Mine goes continuously downward from the point where its crossed over the manifold all the way to the end and I keep it right up against the block the whole way as a source of heat. I also cut slits in the top by the valve to allow it to release pressure if the end were to freeze up.

Its just a really big hose to fully block. there is never more than a little tiny bit of black oily stuff at the very end of the hose.

flash7210 wrote:

I kinda find it hard to believe that a 3/4" ID EHM hose would freeze up.
But what do I know, I live in florida.
And yes, I use a provent.

Gasser engines like the EcoBoost:
Pretty much all gassers has some sort of a PCV system. Usually it consists of a PCV valve somewhere in the V of the block or on the valve cover, and a open breather somewhere.
The PCV hose is connected somewhere on the back side of the throttle plate.
The breather hose is connected somewhere between the air filter and front side of the throttle plate.
Its supposed to be a closed system.
Engine vacuum from the behind the throttle plate pulls the PCV valve open and draws crankcase vapors into the intake manifold.
The breather allows fresh filtered air to be drawn into the crankcase.
Again, its supposed to be a closed system so there should be nowhere for anything to freeze up.
Also, its very common for turbocharged gasoline engines to have lots of vapor pass through the PCV. Its not unique to the ecoboost.

Similarities and differences with our CRD engine:
Our CRD engine doesn't have a throttle plate for producing vacuum. Instead it relies on suction provided by the turbo inlet.
Our engine doesn't have a breather inlet into the crankcase.
Our engine does have a valve in the CCV that functions similarly to a PCV valve.

BTW, the pressure/relief valves in the provent function exactly the same (if not better) than the valve in the CCV. So, if you are using the provent you could remove the little flapper valve and spring inside the CCV.

Problem is the EcoBoost is turbo'd so all the piping post turbos and the manifold are pressurized more often than not. Infact the catch can kits actually relocate the suction side to pre-turbo which is really what makes them successful. Prior to the catch can install there was an outrageous amount of fuel in the oil. I dont know if the PCV does actually function differently that our CCV but people have been starting to delete them and just plumb the outlets pre-turbo to create constant suction whether the truck is in boost or not.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2016 7:21 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

Similarities and differences with our CRD engine:
Our CRD engine doesn't have a throttle plate for producing vacuum. Instead it relies on suction provided by the turbo inlet.
Our engine doesn't have a breather inlet into the crankcase.
Our engine does have a valve in the CCV that functions similarly to a PCV valve.
1 Addition: Our engine has a mechanical vacuum pump that is continuously discharging into the crankcase adding additional flow a and loading to the CCV valve & system.

BTW, the pressure/relief valves in the provent function exactly the same (if not better) than the valve in the CCV. So, if you are using the provent you could remove the little flapper valve and spring inside the CCV.

The last one I will have to respectfully disagree with you on. The flapper in the CCV valve is constantly operating in response to the internal engine pulsations produced by the piston travel along with any vapors being dumped into the crankcase by the mechanical vacuum pump. The valve on the ProVent is a pure over pressure relief valve set to open and relieve any positive pressure in the system, it serves no other function... You can read how it works on ProVents Web page...

The provent has two valves.
The one in the lid they call the saftey valve.
The one in the outlet they call the pressure regulation valve.

minuteman · **Posted:** Sun Oct 02, 2016 8:53 am

So I've read through all of this a few times and while much of it is above me, I've gathered a few points.

1. My EHM that has been venting to atmosphere for 106k miles is bad because it allows positive crankcase pressure. I piped mine to below the passenger seat and it points rearward. I was hoping for a suction effect under highway speeds. But point made.

2. As designed from VM Motori, it would get it's negative pressure from the intake of a naturally aspirated engine but Chrysler said "hey, slap a turbo on that monster 4 banger diesel" and created this problem with oil/debris in the turbo and intercooler.

3. Most are going to the Provent 200 to alleviate this.

So here are my questions,

If the tiny port on the turbo inlet for the CCV is to create suction through the Provent, wouldn't the internal filter in it be negated by the cleaner air filter? I imagine that a tiny amount of oil in the provent filter would create enough resistance that the turbo would draw entirely from the larger air filter and the CCV would still have no negative pressure? Though I have seen the chinese steel filter for the Provent so maybe that's what everyone is using?

If a baffled and filterless catch can is used instead, and the majority of the liquid oil is caught, is there any harm in the vapor going through the turbo and intercooler over long term use?

I've been looking at various CCV system parts for european turbo vehicles and while the designs vary, they are all basically some sort of catch can with a block return feed. Largely hollow plastic with maybe just a baffle in it. The size and location for the placement of the Provent seems odd to me. The hose lengths would be excessive and create a risk of leaking oil on this connectors just below it?

I'm thinking of trying a smaller catch can that be mounted to a bracket and sit almost directly above the CCV puck. IF that were to work, return oil could be tapped right back into the puck.

Thoughts?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 02, 2016 9:37 am

Quote:

Chrysler said "hey, slap a turbo on that monster 4 banger diesel" and created this problem with oil/debris in the turbo and intercooler.

Well, dont blame chrysler for that. It was still VM's design.
And its not unique to the CRD either. Duramax, cummuns, CAT, and others have similar design.

Quote:

If the tiny port on the turbo inlet for the CCV is to create suction through the Provent, wouldn't the internal filter in it be negated by the cleaner air filter? I imagine that a tiny amount of oil in the provent filter would create enough resistance that the turbo would draw entirely from the larger air filter and the CCV would still have no negative pressure? Though I have seen the chinese steel filter for the Provent so maybe that's what everyone is using?

I dont know what the chinese steel filter is. My provent filter is made if synthetic fibers with some sort coating on the outer layer. Steel mesh gives the filter support.
The ccv connection at the turbo inlet acts as a siphon. Low pressure within the turbo inlet hose draws vapors in from the higher pressure ccv. It even works without an air filter.
I dont quite understand how the provent filter works, but it does. Its not perfect either and still allows a very tiny amount of oil to pass through.

Quote:

The size and location for the placement of the Provent seems odd to me. The hose lengths would be excessive and create a risk of leaking oil on this connectors just below it?

Yes, finding a good place to mount the provent is difficult. You just do the best you can. Any kind catch can would be difficut to mount anywhere.
Also, the provent can be as a open configuration without the hose back to the turbo inlet.

I made my own provent like thingy. It wasnt baffled just filtered. It worked but didnt trap enough oil to satisfy me.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:39 am

minuteman wrote:

So I've read through all of this a few times and while much of it is above me, I've gathered a few points.
1. My EHM that has been venting to atmosphere for 106k miles is bad because it allows positive crankcase pressure. I piped mine to below the passenger seat and it points rearward. I was hoping for a suction effect under highway speeds. But point made.
2. As designed from VM Motori, it would get it's negative pressure from the intake of a naturally aspirated engine but Chrysler said "hey, slap a turbo on that monster 4 banger diesel" and created this problem with oil/debris in the turbo and intercooler.
3. Most are going to the Provent 200 to alleviate this.
So here are my questions,
If the tiny port on the turbo inlet for the CCV is to create suction through the Provent, wouldn't the internal filter in it be negated by the cleaner air filter? I imagine that a tiny amount of oil in the provent filter would create enough resistance that the turbo would draw entirely from the larger air filter and the CCV would still have no negative pressure? Though I have seen the chinese steel filter for the Provent so maybe that's what everyone is using?
If a baffled and filterless catch can is used instead, and the majority of the liquid oil is caught, is there any harm in the vapor going through the turbo and intercooler over long term use?
I've been looking at various CCV system parts for european turbo vehicles and while the designs vary, they are all basically some sort of catch can with a block return feed. Largely hollow plastic with maybe just a baffle in it. The size and location for the placement of the Provent seems odd to me. The hose lengths would be excessive and create a risk of leaking oil on this connectors just below it?
I'm thinking of trying a smaller catch can that be mounted to a bracket and sit almost directly above the CCV puck. IF that were to work, return oil could be tapped right back into the puck.
Thoughts?

Open and read this link, I think it will answer most of your questions on the hows and why a ProVent:
>https://industrialfilters.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/kataloge/kataloge-wartungsanleitungen-mann%2Bhummel/kurbelgehauseentlueftung/ProVent_en.pdf

Quote:

I'm thinking of trying a smaller catch can that be mounted to a bracket and sit almost directly above the CCV puck. IF that were to work, return oil could be tapped right back into the puck.

As to the build your own, yes you can, I made and used one early on, but got real concerned about a DIY catch can not having any overpressure safety relief valves. The ProVent 200 has two!

From Website: wrote:

It has 2 relief valves. (most other types have none). One is situated on the inlet side to relieve high pressure, the other on the outlet side to relieve any low pressure. Again, this stops any pressure build up even if the filter becomes blocked from you not cleaning it. It’s a great engine safe guard!

Quote:

The hose lengths would be excessive and create a risk of leaking oil on this connectors just below it?

As to leakage, there is none, use good quality hoses and screw clamp all connections!
Mounting: Not a lot of extra space under the hood of a CRD Liberty; I mounted it using a homemade bracket right next to the turbo vacuum controller. Hose lengths are only a few inches longer than original...

Quote:

If a baffled and filterless catch can is used instead, and the majority of the liquid oil is caught, is there any harm in the vapor going through the turbo and intercooler over long term use?

No, actually a little oil vapor might still make it into the turbo inlet, the ProVent is not 100%, but it does remove and trap probably about 98% of any oil mist coming out of the CCV on top of the engine... Only concern is oil accumulation in the bottom of the intercooler over time...

mass-hole · **Posted:** Tue Oct 04, 2016 12:02 pm

minuteman wrote:

So I've read through all of this a few times and while much of it is above me, I've gathered a few points.

1. My EHM that has been venting to atmosphere for 106k miles is bad because it allows positive crankcase pressure. I piped mine to below the passenger seat and it points rearward. I was hoping for a suction effect under highway speeds. But point made.

2. As designed from VM Motori, it would get it's negative pressure from the intake of a naturally aspirated engine but Chrysler said "hey, slap a turbo on that monster 4 banger diesel" and created this problem with oil/debris in the turbo and intercooler.

3. Most are going to the Provent 200 to alleviate this.

So here are my questions,

If the tiny port on the turbo inlet for the CCV is to create suction through the Provent, wouldn't the internal filter in it be negated by the cleaner air filter? I imagine that a tiny amount of oil in the provent filter would create enough resistance that the turbo would draw entirely from the larger air filter and the CCV would still have no negative pressure? Though I have seen the chinese steel filter for the Provent so maybe that's what everyone is using?

If a baffled and filterless catch can is used instead, and the majority of the liquid oil is caught, is there any harm in the vapor going through the turbo and intercooler over long term use?

I've been looking at various CCV system parts for european turbo vehicles and while the designs vary, they are all basically some sort of catch can with a block return feed. Largely hollow plastic with maybe just a baffle in it. The size and location for the placement of the Provent seems odd to me. The hose lengths would be excessive and create a risk of leaking oil on this connectors just below it?

I'm thinking of trying a smaller catch can that be mounted to a bracket and sit almost directly above the CCV puck. IF that were to work, return oil could be tapped right back into the puck.

Thoughts?

since the provent uses filter media vs just some tiered condensation plates/media like every other can ever, I would mount it in the engine bay.

If you were going to try a more typical catch can, I would think about mounting it behind the grill. I know my catch can on my F150 is SUBSTANTIALLY more effective in the winter when it has cold air blowing across it. It will fill in 500 miles or less in the winter but can go 1500 in the summer.

Does the provent not catch anything besides oil? Not sure why you would want the recovered crap returning to your oil sump unless it was pure oil, but I seriously doubt thats the only thing passing out of the CCV.

minuteman · **Posted:** Sun Oct 16, 2016 2:45 pm

So I got around to installing a catch can on the CRD this weekend but did something a little different. I found a strainer and grease gun clip at Tractor Supply that seems like it'll work. I also grommeted the airbox top to use as an output instead of returning to the already cramped turbo inlet hose area. I''ll put a few hundred miles on it and report back with what the inlet looks like.

I put a pdf on dropbox with pics if anyone is interested.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4klhbn77qvij9j/CRD%20Catch%20Can%20Install.pdf?dl=0

Opinions welcome of course.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 16, 2016 3:31 pm

Do not forget, any return in front of the MAF sensor will contaminate it with oil residue and eventually trip a DTC...
Ask me how I know this! :ROTFL:

minuteman · **Posted:** Sun Oct 16, 2016 3:56 pm

I put 100k in it with the MAF unplugged before I deleted the EGR. I've since plugged it in but will gladly unplug it again if it becomes a problem.

So what will this cause in the long term? Limp mode or just a trouble light?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 16, 2016 8:33 pm

It can trip a DTC light, its not a big deal unless your EGR is still in service (hopefully not) or you are relying on the MAP sensor for rocker arm flow measurement... :roll:

The MAF sensor does not like oil contamination....

minuteman · **Posted:** Mon Oct 17, 2016 6:53 am

WWDiesel wrote:

It can trip a DTC light, its not a big deal unless your EGR is still in service (hopefully not) or you are relying on the MAP sensor for rocker arm flow measurement... :roll:

The MAF sensor does not like oil contamination....

I was under the impression that on this engine, the MAF was useless outside of EGR function. I've deleted the EGR with the Weeks stage 1 kit. Would removing and blocking off the MAF port be a bad idea?

You've lost me with the MAP and rocker arm flow, what does that mean? I though the MAP just helped with fuel metering?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Oct 17, 2016 1:21 pm

minuteman wrote:

I was under the impression that on this engine, the MAF was useless outside of EGR function. I've deleted the EGR with the Weeks stage 1 kit. Would removing and blocking off the MAF port be a bad idea?
You've lost me with the MAP and rocker arm flow, what does that mean? I though the MAP just helped with fuel metering?

Quote:

Would removing and blocking off the MAF port be a bad idea? --- You can, but it will hold a DTC (check engine light) if left unplugged!!! :roll:

It measures air flow into the turbo period! It's signal is feed to the ECM to operate the EGR if you still have one.
Many people simply unplug the MAF to prevent EGR operation prior to blocking off the EGR feed tube or installing the Weeks elbow kit and totally removing all the EGR, FCV crap.
They have to live with the DTC light when doing this!

If you have the Weeks elbow kit and NO EGR & FCV anymore, then it will still measure and furnish an air flow signal the ECM.
I also have the Weeks kit and a performance tune; if I unplug the MAF it will trigger a P0101 DTC!
I tried a K&N (oiled) air filter early on; it kept causing a MAF DTC and I would have to take it out and clean it good with MAF spray cleaner.
I went back to a stock paper element due to the oil contamination issue on the MAF and it solved the problem..

According to several knowledgeable persons on this forum, the air flow measurement signal generated by the MAF at idle can be used to assess the wear condition of the rocker arms.
Worn rockers will not open the valves (valve lift) as much and therefore there is less air flow entering the combustion chamber...

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

I like the idea. Does the catch can unscrew at the bottom to drain the oil?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 12:17 pm

joelukex4 wrote:

I like the idea. Does the catch can unscrew at the bottom to drain the oil?

The ProVent has a hose connection at the bottom so you can install a drain hose with a valve at the end to drain at your desired location! :wink:

minuteman · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 5:33 pm

joelukex4 wrote:

I like the idea. Does the catch can unscrew at the bottom to drain the oil?

Which idea? The catch can or the Provent? I believe the lid comes off the Provent for filter access. The catch can I purchased does unscrew from the bottom. Here's a link to an online pic of the same thing, just a different color.
https://cdn3.volusion.com/zbeh9.m5kqn/v/vspfiles/photos/3350-0132-2T.jpg
My intention was to block off the MAF sensor until I removed it and realized it wasn't that simple. Too many contours. So I've heeded WWDiesel's warning and plugged the airbox hole with a rear diff plug and piped the catch can back to the turbo inlet.

I've put 106k miles with nothing but an EHM piped out (piped with 1/2" pvc to below the passenger seat) and the turbo and intercooler hoses are still fine. No ill effects that I've ever been able to tell. I just hate the looks I get at stop lights with the smoking.

I'll be driving 300 miles round trip this weekend so it'll be a decent test. If everything is oily and mucked up, I'll run the EHM until the tires fall off it.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2016 6:36 pm

Is it possible that too much boost could create excessive crankcase pressure and blow out the rear main seal?

I have a definite RMS leak and am wondering what could have brought this about.
Other than normal wear and tear of course :roll:

Ive had my provent installed for about a year now and have collected about a quart of oil from it.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2016 11:54 pm

minuteman wrote:

joelukex4 wrote:

I like the idea. Does the catch can unscrew at the bottom to drain the oil?

Which idea? The catch can or the Provent? I believe the lid comes off the Provent for filter access. The catch can I purchased does unscrew from the bottom. Here's a link to an online pic of the same thing, just a different color.
https://cdn3.volusion.com/zbeh9.m5kqn/v/vspfiles/photos/3350-0132-2T.jpg
My intention was to block off the MAF sensor until I removed it and realized it wasn't that simple. Too many contours. So I've heeded WWDiesel's warning and plugged the airbox hole with a rear diff plug and piped the catch can back to the turbo inlet.

I've put 106k miles with nothing but an EHM piped out (piped with 1/2" pvc to below the passenger seat) and the turbo and intercooler hoses are still fine. No ill effects that I've ever been able to tell. I just hate the looks I get at stop lights with the smoking.

I'll be driving 300 miles round trip this weekend so it'll be a decent test. If everything is oily and mucked up, I'll run the EHM until the tires fall off it.

FWIW: I bought my CRD with 164k miles and an EHM already installed, it had the EHM for about 15k miles with no plugging of any kind, but the main seal failed anyhow. I've seen about 3 failed main seals, and heard of more related to the EHM, and I don't think any of them had ice, or debris clogging them. I think our main seals really need that negative pressure, and replacing the main seal sucks bad. My only other thought for failed main seals may be related to the engine and transmission getting hot, but who knows.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:59 am

minuteman wrote:

I'll be driving 300 miles round trip this weekend so it'll be a decent test. If everything is oily and mucked up, I'll run the EHM until the tires fall off it.

Keep in mind, the catch can you pictured is not a ProVent type coalescing filter with a built-in pressure safety vent; I would not use it, way too many opportunities with this type of catch can to cause undesired problems including engine seal leakage...
Operating your engine with NO negative pressure on the CCV system is not a good idea nor is it good for engine seals! (Read below)

Reasons why NOT to use or run the EHM from the first page of this thread in case you have not already read them:

Page 1 of this thread wrote:

More good information to consider on CCV mods:
from a pm discussion on the merits of installing a ProVent and venting to atmosphere:
[b]Be sure and read the last statement, it is profound especially if you are running a EHM![/b]

So the ProVent must be connected to the turbo inlet hose to function correctly???? Are you saying the ProVent has to have some vacuum on the outlet side to keep the relief valve from opening???

Yes to the above. Also it needs some vacuum to efficiently remove oil vapor from the input gas stream.

If I install it and just let it vent to atmosphere like my current setup, the relief valve would be subject to operate anytime the engine is at higher boost loads where more blowby would be produced.

Yes, exactly. It will also vent at idle if the filter is never cleaned or replaced. Racor gives some valuable data in one of their pdf's - they quote 1X blowby gas at idle, up to 4X times as much blowby gas at peak power levels, on a new engine. On a worn engine, it is 2X at idle, up to 8x the amount of blowby gas at full power due to worn rings.

Or, does this engine produce more blowby at idle?

No, less at idle. However, if you remove the oil cap with the Provent connected in close loop, and raise the idle speed, the blow by gas coming out of the oil cap pipe disappears, looking like it's less. It's actually the increased vacuum the Provent is pulling on the crankcase. The blowby gas disappears with the idle speed raised by a tiny amount, even 900 rpm does it.

Also, with your statement, that means the EHM that many of us have done and are currently running is really not the best setup for the engine due to the lack of any negative pressure supplied by the turbo inlet pipe when the turbo is at higher speeds providing boost????

Exactly. Without the regulated vacuum on the crankcase, it's going to run at slight positive pressure at idle to much higher pressure at speed or especially towing. Racor also stated that just using a closed loop system without a regulator on the vacuum to the crankcase is as bad for the engine seals as not having a relief valve. Both Mann and Racor state that the crankcase must run in a narrow range of vacuum, with the *numbers below. Both vent to atmosphere at much less than +1 psig. Racor further stated that excess crankcase pressure can damage head gaskets in extreme cases.

*Racor-working crankcase vacuum of -0.14 psig(-4 inches of H20), relief valve pressure of positive 0.14 psi(4.0 INWG)
*Provent-working crankcase vacuum of -0.072 psig(-4.96 millibars), relief valve pressure of positive 0.72 psig (50 millibars)

If you didn't connect to the turbo inlet hose the crankcase pressure could rise to a maximum pressure of .72 psi, the relief valve setting on the Provent because of the blow by and no regulated vacuum to the crankcase to eliminate the pressure. The relief valve on the Provent is on the input side, so any pressure differential between the input and an open output line greater than .72 psi will vent inside the engine bay and coat it with oily residue. Not good!

Things have changed from the old days when engines were designed to run with a vent pipe down the side. Man have they changed. I'm beginning to see why several LOST members have lost rear main seals - they run a EHM and tow. It's starting to add up now, since I found that information on the desired range of vacuum for modern diesel engines. Racor and Mann Hubbel should know about this since they sell a lot of CCV's on a lot of diesel engines. If they get it wrong, they're going to be sued out of business.

This also explains why VM Motori put several pressure sensors on the new 3.0L V6 diesel in the Ram and GC vehicles. They have both pressure, vacuum and flow sensors, which trip MIL lights and codes if the hoses are removed. I see why now, it can cause major engine repairs on a tow vehicle if the crankcase pressure goes much above 1 psi.

:shock:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2016 1:23 pm

I've been a very happy user of the provent. It works and I have no complaints.
But there is one thing that has always bugged my about it...

The flow path and filter position.
CCV vapors enter the canister from the top port. Flow down through the filter. And out the bottom port. The filter traps the oil along the path.
But, in order for the trapped oil to drain out of the filter, it has to pass through the filter:?
So what exactly keeps the oil from going back out the bottom port?

I get it, it works, but I dont get it.

Excessive CCV or Engine Blowby

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