Anyone see that FFD released there own electric fan kit for the CRD?

http://ffdynamics.com/products/jeep-libertycrd-stage-4-extreme

Details are few, but I emailed them asking if a 4 x 10" fan setup would be better than the single 16" FFD3600 and they directed me to this kit. I am waiting to here back about the details, like what does a semi shroud mean.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

The guy is saying they have had this kit for 5 years but I swear I have looked on their site and never saw anything. Was the guy selling the kit on eBay part of FFD?

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

The corporate ffd did not have a specific crd fan when I got the ebay one, I'm 100% sure of this. Also, there is no pic, I was hoping to see how the "semi shroud" looks like. Seems that the ebay guy had a deal with ffd. There was no crd kit on ffd corporate either and only the eBay guy had it for sale.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

From the sounds of it, the ebay guy had a contract so I suspect that you have the FFD kit and the "semi" shroud is the one that doesnt full cover the radiator that came in that kit.

I knew I never saw the kit on their site, I am glad I am not crazy.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Is this a pusher or puller kit? The link doesn't specify.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

if its the same one that is on ebay its a puller. It comes with a shroud that mounts on the back side of the radiator and you remove your mechanical fan. As far as I know you retain the factory A/C Fan which acts as a pusher.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Probably a lot more efficient than the GM Mechanical fan setup I just installed

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

I am currently running a custom built shroud and efan setup and removed my A/C fan as well. I have maybe seen 1 mpg improvement, but where it really helps is warm up in the winter. You dont have the mech fan constantly spinning blowing air through the engine bay.

Unfortunately my setup doesnt have enough power to keep my jeep cool during the hot summer months here at altitude so I am either gunna have to build some epic efan setup, get a better radiator, or go back to my mech fan in the summer.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Well 4-5% improvement for a single change isn't bad. Granted, it's not gonna save the world and rescue all the polar bears and baby tigers, but it's measurable, and measurable improvements add up.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

Not sure how hard footed are you, but I haven't had an issue overheating with this fan. If you think about it, at 2k rpm (and any rpm for that reason), this fan puts out (theoretically) more than the mechanical one, which I believe is 5k-ish (if I remember correctly what gde said) at max rpm.

Edit: stock viscous fan has per gde 5400 cfm at 4,000 rpm.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Not hard footed but I have a lot of 5-7% grades I have to climb here in utah and where I have overheat issues is after a couple miles of this where the cooling system gets fully saturated. At first it will hold steady at 95C(HDS Model 01 T stat) but after 2-3 minutes of high load it starts to creep up. Part of it is the bigger tires and lift just causing more load than the average CRD.

I was assuming an electric fan would move more air at lower RPM too. That was why I tired out my current setup but I guess my fan just doesnt cut it.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Since you're into power, you could change gears and solve your cooling problem at the same time. Those 265/70 tires aren't that much taller, but they are heavy and the aggressive tread is adding a lot of load. I ended up with a free set of stock size TKo2's and I really like them with 1.5" wheel spacers, but I still notice the extra heavy C rated tires and the semi aggressive tread. I'm going to quit towing so much with my CRD and run P rated 245/75 duratracs after I regear

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Oh, and then with the regear you could step up to 245/75's if you want more clearance. I know, regear is big money unless you do it yourself, and then you'll HAVE to get lockers also

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I kid you not I put 4.10's, an arb rear locker and DTT front in my cart at JBA last night lol. Made me cringe a little.

my F150 saw almost no mpg or power hit going from Bridgestone duelers, which were basically a sedan tire, to 33" duratracs but I kept them the same width. I may do what you said and go to a narrower tire next time.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

yeah, the width and meat also affects the aerodynamics a little, so I guess it all adds up. That ARB front bumper also hurts a lot over 50mph with air drag, but you'll still get almost twice the mileage of a similarly outfitted wrangler

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I'd rather put a controllable switched locker in front rather than a dtt, Eaton may have some, not sure about arb, but if you go with rear arb, why wouldn't you go with arb front (if available for crd) also? You need a compressor anyways... Also, 4:10 may be a bit too low for 31ish tires, unless you don't care about speed too much.

If you're concerned with overheating, I'd either try the hayden (if cheaper and you have it already) either a very good fan like ffd and some form of shroud. I seriously haven't had an overheating issue even when I got stuck in the snow few years ago and for 20 min I pulled myself out inch by inch...

Don't mind my ramblings, just sharing my thoughts.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Yeah, I'm not all that impressed with my truetrac, and for not much more you can get a Eaton E locker. I'm not an ARB locker fan because the OX is much more trail or home repairable, and it has a drive away feature. I'm going ox e-locker in the rear, and probably the Eaton in the front. I haven't watched reviews of the Eaton yet. But, there's a great you tube review on the Ox that shows how it is immensely more simple and less likely to fail.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I've heard ox are dope... Like really good. They make e lockers with manual override, not sure if for 8 1/4 but they do have them. I'm contemplating... I already have a dtt for rear, should I get the axle tools and install it myself, or just get an ox E locker and install it at a shop... Big dilema, Lol. I'm not a fan of arb, even though I admit they make great products. But there's nothing like a good ol' "made in the US of A".

I wouldn't like any locker that is not switchable in front, would drive me nuts when turning, especially in the winter.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I believe eaton is the OEM for the Elocker in the JKs.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

I was under the impression the D30a was week and a locker that binds in corners would possibly damage it.

I did the math, a 4.10 brings a 31" tire slightly shorter than stock, and a 32" is exactly stock in terms of RPM vs speed. I find it odd that with all the torque these motors supposedly make they have trouble turning a 31" tire. My F150 rated at 420 ft-lbs(2500rpm), weighs 6400 lbs without me in it and has 33" duratracs with 3.73 gear is far more powerful at 2000 rpms.

I've got a hayden on my mech fan that I will be putting back in once things warm up. The electric fan does ok in the winter and I even run a grill blanket but in the summer pulling hills with the A/C blasting, I am pretty sure the air that reaches the radiator is practically as hot as the coolant. I have seen IAT's at 180-190F, post intercooler.



I didnt even know an e-locker was an option!! I would absolutely go e-locker over an arb.

it looks like they have a D30 Locker, but will that not fit the D30a? What I have heard about the Eaton is that they are not quite as good because they require certain amount of rotation to engage. My F150 has a factory e-locker in the rear and I am pretty sure its an Eaton and has worked fine for me but the truck is not ever used for anything serious.



I thought the DTT's were great in the front. The Ford Raptor uses one(Not specifically a DTT but a torsen of some kind) and the WRX Sti's use helical LSD's front and rear. I almost did a swap into my Legacy GT since it would do a one wheel peel coming out of corners on the throttle.

EDIT:

Looks like eaton has their mail in rebates going on again. I missed it a few years ago but its back.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs