So I noticed some shutter and some odd behaviour my vehicle exhibits. Most common is the shutter I get when braking from 50+ mph and it occurs around the 15-25 mph area. The othwr thing I noticed is when I do brake to a full stop I noticed how it will slow down and just as I begin to let off the break it act like it wants to go foward again. A co-worker said it sounds like the TC but I figured id get the opinions of people who know this vehicle.

Also if it is the TC what's a good replacement that doesn't cost an arm and a leg like the Suncoast does.

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2005 CRD 2.8L
GDE Eco Tuned
Weeks Stage 1+2
Suncoast Torque Converter
2.5" custom OME/JBA lift
Kennedy Lift Pump
Racor 245R122 fuel filter system
Model 001 Thermostat 41603
Iron Rock Tri-link

Typical torque converter shudder occurs under load not while braking but just in case the least expensive good solid torque converter replacement part is the "euro" (OEM TC used after 2006 model year) torque converter 68037142AA now apparently available only as a rebuild RL037142AA and as of 2/13/2013 maybe as R8037142AA.

Sounds more like perhaps a downshift issue, try adding a bit more ATF+4 transmission fluid. I do recall several posts a while back about that sort of lurch forward just before stopping but don't have time right now to look for the discussion(s) perhaps someone else can locate them?

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Add some additional ATF+4 and see if the problem goes away. Low oil level can cause some problems. I run mine about 1/2 inch above the full when hot mark.

As to a torque converter:
These are the Mopar part numbers for the Transmission Torque Converter
Mopar euro torque converter - RL037142AA (was 68037142AA)
Some on this forum have had some success installing the 5.7L Hemi TC in the 545RFE tranny...
Part No.s for it are:
4736587AC New
R4736587AD. (remanned)

Stock Mopar OEM TC is rated for 300 ft. lbs. max (406 Nm)
Mopar Euro TC is rated for 400 ft. lbs. max (~ 542 Nm)
Suncoast CRD-1ES TC is rated for 600 ft. lbs. max (813 Nm)

additional part no.s:
new transmission front pump assembly - 68009879AB
flat transmission filter - 5013470AD
spin-on transmission filter - 5179267AC
WIX transmission filter set with pan gasket - 58843

At a minimum get a euro TC, a 5.7 Hemi TC, or get a Suncoast TC if you got the funds, it is bullet proof and the heaviest built unit of them all and will stand up to anything you can throw at it. It does cost the most though.
Be sure and install a new front pump assembly and a Transgo Kit while you got the tranny out to replace the TC.

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Well when i bought the jeep it had a few mods already done to it and other then those two tranny issues its one of the best shifting autos ive ever been in. I would have to say the previous owner did do some tranny work on it in the past but to what extent i dont know. Given the milage i would have to say the TC in it cant be the orginal and it may have had the transgo installed but i dunno how Libertys normally shift compared to when having the transgo installed. any one know of any ways to identify if the Transgo has been put in?

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2005 CRD 2.8L
GDE Eco Tuned
Weeks Stage 1+2
Suncoast Torque Converter
2.5" custom OME/JBA lift
Kennedy Lift Pump
Racor 245R122 fuel filter system
Model 001 Thermostat 41603
Iron Rock Tri-link

I'd agree too with the TC problem. Your example is not related to the 'shuddering' most are talking about 'in here'. Yours is a TC not releasing, or partially releasing. Either from a balled up clutch pak, or something in the valve body keeping it from releasing. This may be internal, VB, or a bad wire. (tc lockup is achieved by grounding out the circuit) or a bad input is telling the computer to keep it engaged. The shudder you are feeling is a locked up tc, at low speeds, and the engine is 'fighting/lugging'. Just as a manual trans would when you don't push the clutch in, or downshift.

Buddy of mine drove into a parking lot, and circled it 10 times playing with the throttle trying desperately to get it to 'unlock'. I finally yelled at him to 'kick it into neutral'. duh. After tear down, we found it welded/smeared together. This was pure mechanical problem.
Yours could be close to doing this..
When you feel it shudder, look at the tach. If it's pretty low, say 1200 or less (@50 mph) I'd say that is what's happening.
Next time you feel it shudder at 15-20 mph, immediately roll back on the gas. Then try pulling it down into low when it's doing that. (at 15-20 mph) What does it do then?
Check the level and quality of trans fluid first!
I'm going with the hemi TC next spring. Cost, (230 bucks) and it's power rating puts it at the top of the list for 'me'.

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'