I have a 06 CRD that gives me a p0299 under boost code and no other codes. It is very doggy and blows blk smoke till i reach 2300rpm then kinda builds boost for a moment. I have checked the common things first. I have checked the vac lines by the turbo, tried the vac solenoid bypass (periodic buzzing on pass side) and inspected the cac and found nothing wrong. I thought it might be EGR related but I installed a GDE full tq eco tune and it helped a touch but not anywhere near the performance of even a well running stock CRD.
I did pull the vac line off the vac module on the turbo and it has vac at the line, but the rod did not drop when unplugged. It does not move up the 1/2" it should when plugged in at idle either. I am however able to move the rod by hand. I hook up an hand vac pump to the vac module on the turbo and it moves the rod briefly when i squeeze the handle but fades very quickly. It bleeds off so quickly that i cant build any vac past 5-7in/hg. Is this vac module my culprit? I called the stealership and they said they dont sell parts of the turbo.

So does anyone know if this rod moves the vanes on the turbo or just a valve? Can I order a replacement vac module if this is my issue and from where?

Thank you for any input
Jim

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06 CRD buildt trans GDE full tq eco
98 Grand 1ton w/42's
4seat buggy on the table
04 Duramax sas w/bags on 40s

Well first off the stealership is apparently staffed with incompetent, lazy, lying, SOB, nitwits - where in the "he double hockey sticks" do they find these people. I'll give them credit that parts of the turbo are not for sale but then I'll give them an infinite number of demerits for being so stupid, not to mention too lazy to look at the parts fiche, as to not know that the vacuum assembly is, drum roll, NOT part of the turbo. In fact the vacuum tower (PN52129285AA - figure 14-630 in the 06 parts fiche) is like a $25 part. Here endith the rant.

Anyway. Your code and symptoms are likely low boost. As I understand it 1) trying the boost solenoid bypass (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348) did not improve things; 2) you have inspected both CAC hoses (NOTE this must be done off the vehicle as hole, including pin holes, typically are on the bottom of the hose(s)); 3) you do have vacuum at the tower which implies the vacuum line that runs along the firewall under the coolant tank may be ok (it's been know to collapse due to heat); 4) when you pulled the vacuum line the turbo vane rod did not drop 1/2" nor does it come up that much when plugged back in; and 5) not sure where you are hooking up the hand vac but when used it does move the rod (you don't mention how much but I assume less than 1/2") and you quickly lose vacuum.

With respect to the latter it doesn't sound like the tower itself is bad (it's pretty solid plastic) - sounds more like a leaky hose or, regardless of your solenoid bypass test, possibly a bad solenoid (as I understand it the purpose of the solenoid is to hold the vacuum in the tower. So check for leaky hoses.

Moving on you have underboost and over fueling hence no power and black smoke. Based on all of the above I think the variable vanes are stuck or at least partially stuck (they are moved directly by the rod). You can try to unstick them with an "Italian tuneup" get the engine up to operating temp - do several fully throttle acceleration runs up a slope similar to an Interstate on ramp which may generate enough exhaust heat past the vanes to burn off the soot that's causing them to stick. If that doesn't work then you will need to dig into the turbo far enough to clean and free up the vanes. Not a hard job. If your location of "cralorado" = Colorado there are several members who work on CRDs in various places along the front range between the Springs and Ft. Collins so help should be nearby.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I want to make sure I understand what you're talking about: the round, metal-encased vacuum diaphragm that directly controls the linkage rod to the turbocharger vanes and is attached physically to the turbocharger, which is attached to the engine?? Is that what you are applying vacuum to, and then seeing it leak from?

If so, it sounds like you have a hole in the diaphragm. Unless you are re-using the same piece of vacuum line for the test and the line has a leak.


Or are you talking about some other part of the system, as I think gmctd seems to think? (I think the piece he's describing is attached to the fender well)



Again, important to clarify what component you're talking about. If it is the linkage that I described above, yes, that varies the angle on the vanes. As for parts availability for that specific part, I don't know; I believe it is calibrated against the rest of the turbocharger, so it may not be available separately.

Be warned: moving that linkage by hand can fool you. There is a fair amount of play in it, that may make you feel like things are free when they are not. But you need to get the vacuum thing sorted first, it sounds like.

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George Reiswig
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary

I think the vac solenoid is acting ok, but have heard some buzzing occasionly. Your coerect that is a $25 part and the stealer ship has it, but I am talking about the vacuum module bolted to the turbo that has the rod conecting it to the turbo vanes. That is where I checked with the hand vac and it did move the rod up briefly. It is in a metal case.

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06 CRD buildt trans GDE full tq eco
98 Grand 1ton w/42's
4seat buggy on the table
04 Duramax sas w/bags on 40s

Lost junkie, yes I am talking about the vac diaphragm on the turbo. I did use the hose supplied with the hand vac pump. There is suction at the vac line that normaly is hooked to it while running so I think the diaphragm does have a pin hole in it. Any idea on how to calibrate a new one or just get a new turbo. And if new turbo, where is most people buying them for decent price?

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06 CRD buildt trans GDE full tq eco
98 Grand 1ton w/42's
4seat buggy on the table
04 Duramax sas w/bags on 40s

I think this is directed at me, although I am not "lost junkie." I'm lost, not a junkie.

I suspect you could not get that part alone from a dealership. I doubt there is a published method for calibrating it, but you might get lucky if you called Garrett and sobbed on the right shoulder. Who knows, they might even sell you that one part. But I kind of doubt it.

I believe the positive pressure side of that diaphragm is exposed. If it can't be bought separately, and if it were me, being cheap and with nothing to lose, I might start looking for a way to patch the pinhole. For example, flexible silicone conformal coating, or even the green Slime used to patch inner tubes. You might get lucky, especially with the conformal coating.

Start making some other phone calls, to Garrett and maybe some turbo shops.

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George Reiswig
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary

the 'Lost Newbie' 'Lost Junkie' is a function of the number of posts - until you signed up for the 'lifetime'

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Sorry greiswig i just glanced at your post and missed your profile name. Yes the vac diaphragm I believe is the culprit. I do believe it is crimp sealed together so i might have to search for a new one or new turbo.

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06 CRD buildt trans GDE full tq eco
98 Grand 1ton w/42's
4seat buggy on the table
04 Duramax sas w/bags on 40s

Call GDE sometime today, I should have a couple diaphragms available off older turbos. Most likely about $50 shipped. Don't pull off the old one yet, you need to take some pictures first. Put a vacuum pump directly to the turbo actuator, it is does not hold vacuum, then the unit is failed.

There is a lock nut to hold the control rod length constant. You will want to measure this length and then compare to a functional part.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Keith, thanks for your response on the diaphragm. I will take measurements before I remove it off the turbo. I will let you know early next week if I need one.

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06 CRD buildt trans GDE full tq eco
98 Grand 1ton w/42's
4seat buggy on the table
04 Duramax sas w/bags on 40s