Slow Leak when cold

k5robnp · **Joined:** Tue May 28, 2013 10:10 am **Posts:** 47

Hey yall,

The wife's liberty crd just recently has started leaving a small puddle in the driveway in the mornings when its cold out right after she starts it up to warm up. A little background on the jeep: It just rolled 80,000 miles, I did the timing belt, water pump at around 70,000 miles. Its had a GDE eco tune on it ever since about 10,000 miles or so. Doesn't loose much coolant just a small drip and it only seems to be in the cold at start up. Coolant is clean as a whistle. Any suggestions? I havent had a chance to look at it yet as I just noticed it this morning as she left for work. Was about 33 deg out.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:58 am

It's probably just a loose hose clamp that needs to be tightened or replaced.
Happens to me too. I've replaced 4 clamps so far this winter.

k5robnp · **Joined:** Tue May 28, 2013 10:10 am **Posts:** 47

Thanks thats what I am hoping. Its on the passenger side kinda at the back of the engine, I guess that means under the coolant reservoir.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Dec 18, 2014 1:09 pm

Things that come to mind hoses to/from coolant tank; crack in coolant tank; coolant tank level sensor loose; heater core hoses; doesn't sound like it but drain tube from heater core housing exits firewall somewhere under coolant tank

Further forward but same side tstat hoses; viscous heater hoses; water pump hose; forward portion of heater core hoses; oil cooler hoses.

If it's not obvious you may have to try UV dye in the coolant.

Those silly spring loaded hose clamps do lose their tension over time.

k5robnp · **Joined:** Tue May 28, 2013 10:10 am **Posts:** 47

Found the leak. Like I was hoping it was just some loose spring type hose clamps. Replaced 4 of them with reg worm gear clamps. The main offender was here:

Also, its seems like this thing has a separate clutched water pump just for the heater core? is that correct? I have never seen a water pump separate from the main engine water pump just to drive the heater core?

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Dec 19, 2014 10:12 am

Yes, that's the viscous heater. Many of us unplug the relay to save on some fuel. I did not notice any cabin heat disadvantage, you should try this and see if you like it.

k5robnp · **Joined:** Tue May 28, 2013 10:10 am **Posts:** 47

Gotcha, Does it throw any codes if you unplug? What is its intended purpose? Just to circulate the coolant better?

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Dec 19, 2014 11:09 am

It does, but it's not check engine, so you won't see anything unless you attach an obd2 and scan for codes. I believe it's a bcm code telling you that's something wrong with the viscous.

It's purpose is mainly to heat up the cabin faster when engine is colder, and a side benefit would be a bit faster engine warmup. I one don't have issues with heating the engine. There were people saying that without viscous their engine doesn't warm up, and as I believe it could be possible in -10*F, I more think there were different other issues such as a thermostat that doesn't close completely.

k5robnp · **Joined:** Tue May 28, 2013 10:10 am **Posts:** 47

Gotcha, I also noticed that the turbo intercooler hose has a pretty deep wear mark in it. Where is the best place to get Samco Hoses? I Also would like to replace the turbo inlet hose.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Dec 19, 2014 11:19 am

The airbox to turbo you can get from any online Mopar dealer, I use parts.com and moparpartsamerica.com. Part # is 53013104AE. Samco has a website you can order from but you may get a deal on eBay or Amazon, depending on how lucky you are.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 19, 2014 4:16 pm

Just a bit of clarity not that it's really needed.
1. the viscous heater is not a "water pump". Coolant simply flows thru it's housing on the way to the heater core. Below a certain coolant temp level, don't recall what it is, the clutch engages and IIRC causes 2 metal plates in a silicone fluid bath to rub together (driven by the serp belt) which generates heat that's transferred to the coolant. Once the coolant reaches a certain temp the clutch disengages. It's at best a marginal help in warming up the engine and the cabin in really cold weather but if you can plug the block heater in (set on a timer for say 2hrs before start-up) that does a lot more. My son plugged his viscous back in when temps in Kearney, NE went down to 10F or so and reports that he gets signs of coolant temp rise about 1 mile sooner than with it not plugged in.
2. since the silly thing is activated based on coolant temp it runs at start-up every single time you crank up a cold engine even if the outside ambient temp is N. FL or AZ hot. Lots of parasitic drag for local commuting type driving. Pull the R-36 relay in the power distribution center (black box in front of battery) to disable the viscous heater. I stuck a small block of ethafoam in the hole to keep the contacts clean if I ever reinstall the relay. It will throw a code (B10B3 I think) but will not turn on the CEL/MIL. Whether having that code set matters during an emission inspection where a code reader is used I do not know. If it does and you lack a code reader that can clear the code simply plug the relay back soon enough for like 5 on/off drive cycles before inspection which will clear the code.
3. idparts has the Samco hoses (http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info ... ts_id=3207) at a reasonable price considering their kit includes the really good clamps. When mounting the Samcos a) the ends don't have the witness marks of the OEM hoses so be sure to check hose routing to make sure there are no places where the hose will rub on anything before clamping down in place and b) tighten the clamps snug, just past the fitting flange, but not godzilla snug especially on the plastic intercooler ends and recheck tightness after a few drive cycles.
4. if the turbo inlet hose is solid, not mushy with oil, on the bottom don't bother replacing it but do make it an item to check at every oil change. That hose lasts as long as it lasts. My son's 06 lost that hose to a split at around 30K miles but mine is going strong at like 50K miles. That said when it goes it should be replace soonish so it would not hurt to have a spare on the shelf. idparts has that too and maybe you can save some shipping $s ordering this with your Samco hoses.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Dec 19, 2014 5:55 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Just a bit of clarity not that it's really needed.
1. the viscous heater is not a "water pump". Coolant simply flows thru it's housing on the way to the heater core. Below a certain coolant temp level, don't recall what it is, the clutch engages and IIRC causes 2 metal plates in a silicone fluid bath to rub together (driven by the serp belt) which generates heat that's transferred to the coolant. Once the coolant reaches a certain temp the clutch disengages. It's at best a marginal help in warming up the engine and the cabin in really cold weather but if you can plug the block heater in (set on a timer for say 2hrs before start-up) that does a lot more. My son plugged his viscous back in when temps in Kearney, NE went down to 10F or so and reports that he gets signs of coolant temp rise about 1 mile sooner than with it not plugged in.
2. since the silly thing is activated based on coolant temp it runs at start-up every single time you crank up a cold engine even if the outside ambient temp is N. FL or AZ hot. Lots of parasitic drag for local commuting type driving. Pull the R-36 relay in the power distribution center (black box in front of battery) to disable the viscous heater. I stuck a small block of ethafoam in the hole to keep the contacts clean if I ever reinstall the relay. It will throw a code (B10B3 I think) but will not turn on the CEL/MIL. Whether having that code set matters during an emission inspection where a code reader is used I do not know. If it does and you lack a code reader that can clear the code simply plug the relay back soon enough for like 5 on/off drive cycles before inspection which will clear the code.
3. idparts has the Samco hoses (http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info ... ts_id=3207) at a reasonable price considering their kit includes the really good clamps. When mounting the Samcos a) the ends don't have the witness marks of the OEM hoses so be sure to check hose routing to make sure there are no places where the hose will rub on anything before clamping down in place and b) tighten the clamps snug, just past the fitting flange, but not godzilla snug especially on the plastic intercooler ends and recheck tightness after a few drive cycles.
4. if the turbo inlet hose is solid, not mushy with oil, on the bottom don't bother replacing it but do make it an item to check at every oil change. That hose lasts as long as it lasts. My son's 06 lost that hose to a split at around 30K miles but mine is going strong at like 50K miles. That said when it goes it should be replace soonish so it would not hurt to have a spare on the shelf. idparts has that too and maybe you can save some shipping $s ordering this with your Samco hoses.

Man, those idparts guys have everything, good to know. The code from the viscous relay can't be cleared unless the relay is reinstalled back, as I remember.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:51 pm

A code reader like the GDE one can "see" the code and once the relay is plugged back in can immediately clear the code. As I noted absent a code reader I'm reasonably sure the code will clear on its own within 5 or so drive cycles after the relay is plugged back in; at least I know for a fact that some codes clear that way.

Slow Leak when cold

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