Just a bit of clarity not that it's really needed.
1. the viscous heater is not a "water pump". Coolant simply flows thru it's housing on the way to the heater core. Below a certain coolant temp level, don't recall what it is, the clutch engages and IIRC causes 2 metal plates in a silicone fluid bath to rub together (driven by the serp belt) which generates heat that's transferred to the coolant. Once the coolant reaches a certain temp the clutch disengages. It's at best a marginal help in warming up the engine and the cabin in really cold weather but if you can plug the block heater in (set on a timer for say 2hrs before start-up) that does a lot more. My son plugged his viscous back in when temps in Kearney, NE went down to 10F or so and reports that he gets signs of coolant temp rise about 1 mile sooner than with it not plugged in.
2. since the silly thing is activated based on coolant temp it runs at start-up every single time you crank up a cold engine even if the outside ambient temp is N. FL or AZ hot. Lots of parasitic drag for local commuting type driving. Pull the R-36 relay in the power distribution center (black box in front of battery) to disable the viscous heater. I stuck a small block of ethafoam in the hole to keep the contacts clean if I ever reinstall the relay. It will throw a code (B10B3 I think) but will not turn on the CEL/MIL. Whether having that code set matters during an emission inspection where a code reader is used I do not know. If it does and you lack a code reader that can clear the code simply plug the relay back soon enough for like 5 on/off drive cycles before inspection which will clear the code.
3. idparts has the Samco hoses (http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info ... ts_id=3207) at a reasonable price considering their kit includes the really good clamps. When mounting the Samcos a) the ends don't have the witness marks of the OEM hoses so be sure to check hose routing to make sure there are no places where the hose will rub on anything before clamping down in place and b) tighten the clamps snug, just past the fitting flange, but not godzilla snug especially on the plastic intercooler ends and recheck tightness after a few drive cycles.
4. if the turbo inlet hose is solid, not mushy with oil, on the bottom don't bother replacing it but do make it an item to check at every oil change. That hose lasts as long as it lasts. My son's 06 lost that hose to a split at around 30K miles but mine is going strong at like 50K miles. That said when it goes it should be replace soonish so it would not hurt to have a spare on the shelf. idparts has that too and maybe you can save some shipping $s ordering this with your Samco hoses.