A viscous heater elimination kit that includes a bracket, idler pulley, and something for blocking off the eliminated heater hoses.

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U.S. Army Retired

Does the heater not do anything or can you just get away with it because you live in FL? Mine takes half my commute to warm up in the winter.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I was thinking, they could sell a set of 18 ARP studs, and save everyone the hassle of what to do with the 2 extras.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

The viscous heater (PN55037539AA) is a rather pricey part if it fails which has been known to happen. If the bearing fails it can be replaced (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60567) but the clutch apparently cannot be replaced. If the unit fails such that the entire unit must be replaced it's pretty pricey for the little benefit it provides which in FL is essential none. That said my son stoutdog is now in Kearney, NE and has run with/without the viscous heater relay plugged in and reports that if the vehicle is NOT plugged in (plugging in is worth way more than a functional viscous heater) that the vehicle starts to warm up ca. 1 mile sooner with a function viscous heater - that's on a vehicle parked outdoors overnight with high winds and ambient temps in the 10F or so range.

Bottom line is it might be nice to have a simple bracket and idler replacement for a totally bad viscous heater although I don't see a really high demand. For those of us with a functional viscous heater simply unplugging the relay essentially puts its idler pulley in free wheel as far as I know.

If weeks101 wants to do something a I don't think any hose block off is needed. Current hose routing is a sort of twisty short hose to the viscous and a regular piece of heater hose from the viscous to the hard pipe heater core inflow. I'm pretty sure one could use a regular piece of heater hose directly from the tstat outflow (where that twisty hose fits) directly to the heater core inflow hard pipe.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

+ 1 to flash, I'd love just a pulley w/o the viscous, same as Cherokees 4.0 has for replacing the ac compressor.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.