FILTER UNDER VACUUM SOLENOID?

shadow63 · **Joined:** Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:04 am **Posts:** 208

Does anyone know what the filter is on the underside of the vacuum solenoid is? Its in clear plastic and seems to have water or some fluid in it. It seem to be missing on my jeep.

gmctd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 30, 2014 4:11 am

If it's missing, why would you think it has liquid in it? Doesn't compute, eh..............

However, that is an air filter on the vent-side of the solenoid-valve for the turbo vane actuator - can use a clear plastic lawnmower in-line gas filter as replacement, mainly 'cause that's what it is, in another life

Also, why not go back and delete your other identical post so I don't have to answer twice?

shadow63 · **Joined:** Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:04 am **Posts:** 208

Sorry for the duplicate post. A couple weeks ago I was cleaning my engine at the car wash and after a code po229 was read. Im gonna try the vacuum solenoid so when I took the old one off I noticed that that filter isn't there and it was there the last time I was under the hood. Im thinking maybe when cleaning the engine I power washed it off. Would love to see how it goes back on and the name of it so I can order a new one. Is it even nessicery to reinstall?

flman · **Posted:** Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:37 am

shadow63 wrote:

Sorry for the duplicate post. A couple weeks ago I was cleaning my engine at the car wash and after a code po229 was read. Im gonna try the vacuum solenoid so when I took the old one off I noticed that that filter isn't there and it was there the last time I was under the hood. Im thinking maybe when cleaning the engine I power washed it off. Would love to see how it goes back on and the name of it so I can order a new one. Is it even nessicery to reinstall?

It should just push on the hose that hangs downward, and you can buy them on IDparts. I am pretty sure you need it, grit inside the vacuum system cant be good.

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=4630

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:13 am

I've said it before but maybe it's time to say it again. "Power" or "pressure" washing the engine bay is an extremely bad idea. Perhaps back about 1965 or so you could get away with doing that as the only critical component that needed protection from water was the distributor and that could be bagged so to speak. Fast forward to post 2000 there are just to darn many critical electric plugs in the engine bay with water seals that may or may not stand up to high pressure water spray.

IMHO if you want to clean that area - warm the engine up slightly; apply a good degreaser all over; let sit; rinse off (shower setting on hose nozzle - maybe higher force at selected areas); immediately drive until you reach engine operating temp. Does an adequate job of cleaning and I've never had a problem with waterlogged engine bay components doing a clean this way although geordi does complain that my engine bay is too clean.

shadow63 · **Joined:** Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:04 am **Posts:** 208

Thanks for the help. Happy new year!

gmctd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 30, 2014 12:37 pm

Long as H2O has reared it's ugly head in the engine bay, here's a New Year's hint for ya:

Your household water heater (it's not a hot water heater - if you got hot water, why would you need a heater?) has a drain at the bottom of the tank, specifically because heating the cold incoming water causes the mineral content to precipitate out (direct contact with the heater), which precipitated minerals always collect in the bottom of the tank, allowing rust to form and propagate - rust-related leakage is the usual failure of water heater tanks, more obvious because the H2O volume is at city-water pressure - that drain spigot is intended to enable flush-out of the mineral bits and pieces at OEM-suggested intervals

I would suggest referring to the instruction pamphlet for drain intervals, but I s'pect it was filed in location #13 shortly before removing the water-heating unit from the shipping container

Us motor-head clean-freaks can therefore clean two birds with one flush: attach your garden hose to that spigot when cleaning mechanical items and the hot water will more easily dislodge and flush greasy\dirty stuff, with added benefit that the heated water evaporates much more quickly than cold water - an initial soak with AUTOZONE engine cleaner in the orange\white container will flush-off as dirty white liquid, such that nosy-nabors won't be referring your name to EPA watchdogs for polluting the drains - the AUTOZONE cleaner with hot-water rinse leaves surfaces squeaky-clean, with no residue

The hot water will not penetrate any of the "weather-pak" sealed connectors in the engine bay, of which there are many and sundry

Cleaning your stuff also flushes the mineral deposits outta the tank, extending the life of your water heater

Enjoy, eh.........

shadow63 · **Joined:** Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:04 am **Posts:** 208

Nice tip!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 30, 2014 2:23 pm

gmctd wrote:

The hot water will not penetrate any of the "weather-pak" sealed connectors in the engine bay, of which there are many and sundry

Cleaning your stuff also flushes the mineral deposits outta the tank, extending the life of your water heater

Enjoy, eh.........

To add to gmctd's great suggestion:
Safety Tip: They make a special 100% rubber hose designed to handle HOT water, most of them are Black and can be bought at ACE or Sears. I have two of them and they work great when using HOT water to wash or rinse greasey motor / truck parts, etc.... :?:

Vinyl hoses are NOT designed to handle HOT water, they can swell up and bust when exposed to high temperature water! :wink:

minisub · **Posted:** Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:51 pm

Yes on the AZ orange and white can!

And if you design a house without a tanked water heater, pex is cheap and it is really handy to have hot water hose bibs strategically placed.

Like near the hot tub, in the garage and near the drive... :rockon:

FILTER UNDER VACUUM SOLENOID?

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