Coolant Leak

amslube · **Posted:** Thu Jan 22, 2015 7:03 pm

I'm going to try BG Sealant for cooling systems. Have a buddy that can get this for me. https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/cooling-system/bg-universal-cooling-system-sealer/ If that doesn't work then head gasket time!!! flman...I will keep an eye on the oil...so far it looks good.

flman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 22, 2015 7:19 pm

amslube wrote:

I'm going to try BG Sealant for cooling systems. Have a buddy that can get this for me. https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/cooling-system/bg-universal-cooling-system-sealer/ If that doesn't work then head gasket time!!! flman...I will keep an eye on the oil...so far it looks good.

That might work out, considering it is not a compression leak?

amslube · **Posted:** Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:39 pm

Got a good picture of my leak a week or so ago. About in the center of the head at the rear near the EGR crossover pipe support bracket. Haven't received the BG Sealant yet but should this week. Leaking about a pint in 70 miles now. Still no indication of a compression leak into the coolant or coolant in the oil. Borrowed a scope from my nephew yesterday to find the size ID for the head geaket...it's a 1 hole. Sort of planning out this job because I feel it is the only permanent solution even if the sealer works. Will install ARP studs if and when I do the HG. While looking for the coolant leak underneath, discovered the right front axle seal was leaking. Replaced the seal today.

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:20 pm

Finally got the BG Sealant today. It is installed...now to see if it works. Have a parts list made up if I end up doing the HG replacement.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 9:06 pm

I have seen fantastic results with a product called "K-Seal". However, if you are having the problem most of us are, namely loss of head bolt torque, you will ultimately to address it with ARP studs.

DOC

amslube · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 9:56 pm

I tried the K-Seal right after I noticed the leak....leak just got progressively worse. I've only put on about 50 miles on since the BG Sealant and it's still leaking but too early for me to tell if it's less or the same. Should know more by the end of next week.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Feb 08, 2015 10:49 am

I experienced the same thing when I used K-Seal.... the leak got worse.

The leak returned with a vengeance. The K-seal solution only worsened the problem and here is what I think the reason is:

I believe that the aluminum head moves like an accordion soon after the bolts have stretched. in an upward and downward motion during the cooling and heating cycles.

The sealing solution dries up during the cold cycle sealing the leak and then the seal is broken again when the engine warms up to operating temperature, when the pressure pushes the head upwards and lower during the stop and go at the stretched bolts area and creating an even larger leak.

The hardened K-seal solution will hold its mound like shape creating larger leak pockets the next time the engine is in operation.

But it may seal small cracks in the block as it did so in a Land Cruiser discovery I know of and also, according to the K-Seal tech support person I spoke to, has been known to lock liners in place. But who knows unless there is documented proof.

So, I am skeptical about the B&G solution working or any other sealer working for that matter..... but let's see what happens after Amslube reports back.

:2cents:

amslube · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:53 am

About 250 miles on the CRD since installing the BG Sealant....still leaking. Didn't seem to even slow the leak any. I'm not really that surprised. Parts ordered and will be doing the HG job most likely next week.
I picked up one of those digital torque adapters as mentioned in the thread for head bolt torque data primarily to check the reading of that device against the setting on my click type torque wrench...was within 1 ft/lb from 50-130 ft/lb. Also will use this to gather data when removing the head bolts.

amslube · **Posted:** Thu Feb 12, 2015 6:30 pm

All the parts are here including the ARP studs. I also bought a set of Etecno glow plugs. Figured the old ones are much easier to remove with the head removed. Originals work fine but they're 10 years old.

amslube · **Posted:** Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:52 pm

Head gasket job finished on Friday. 26 hours of work over 3 days. Didn't see anything unusual with the original head gasket. Head looked fine, no visible cracks, couldn't get a .003" feeler gauge under a straight edge anywhere. Head surface smooth, no corrosion or rough areas, block deck the same. Installed new gasket and torqued head to 130 ft. lbs in the center and 120 ft. lbs. on outside...ARP studs of course.
Guess what??? Leak still exists!!! Same location, appears to be the same leakage amount. Wet underneath with coolant, running down both sides at the rear of the engine as before. In panic, up to the local NAPA store to see what else they may have to plug a leak. One of the guys there highly recommended Bars Leak Tablets. He is a local engine mechanic and said they worked for him more than once. Bought 2 packs...1 pack of 6 treats a 12 quart system so I wanted a few more. Got home, drained about a gallon of coolant. Dissolved 8 tablets and dumped into the radiator via the air purge port. Drove about 25 miles, got home and dry underneath. I'm very surprised but also somewhat relieved. Today drove about 70 miles and still dry so it appears the leak is plugged, for now at least.
I don't know of anything on the back of the motor that can leak coolant other than a head gasket or a cracked block. New head gasket eliminates that part and no reports of a block crack at the top, GDE reported a couple near or just above the starter area. It's so difficult to inspect back there, even with a scope...believe me I've been there and the best I could do is with my phone camera.
If the leak comes back I don't see any choice but to pull the engine for a clear look.
PS-Pulling the engine can't be any more time consuming than doing the HG.

amslube · **Posted:** Thu Feb 26, 2015 10:54 pm

Had some time today to try to get a better idea where my coolant leak is. I know the general area but want to pinpoint the location.
Removed the coolant reservoir, heat shield behind the turbo, heat shield for the CPS, disconnected the downpipe at the turbo, and disconnected the EGR crossover pipe at both ends to move it out of the way. Below is the best pic I can get and it appears to be a pinhole or porosity in the block, not a crack. Thoughts?

Coolant Leak

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