new design thermostat using orignal parts

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 3:48 pm

RJM wrote:

its not welded just a crimped compression seal.

So how did you manage to get it apart.... a special tool?

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 3:59 pm

RJM wrote:

Some better shots of a housing split apart without spacer as dirtmover mentioned. issues are a thermo that will work, and how to hold the two castings back together. Ideas???
http://s722.photobucket.com/user/userna ... t=3&page=1

Much better revealing pics - tnx

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:04 pm

racertracer wrote:

RJM wrote:

its not welded just a crimped compression seal.

So how did you manage to get it apart.... a special tool?

Sounds like a file, hack saw and some time

What I want to know is why would they make it two halves and go through all the trouble to seal it up and use some custom T-stat.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:21 pm

Could be a one-off upgrade for the turbo'ed version intended to be non-serviceable to prevent owners from replacing other than designed t-static temps, with resultant damage to the flimsy non-turbo head-gasket scheme

Those pics showed there will be some increased difficulty for conversion, but should be no hill for a stepper - dh100m did it with little more than a fingernail file and a butter knife

RJM · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:42 pm

gmctd wrote:

Could be a one-off upgrade for the turbo'ed version intended to be non-serviceable to prevent owners from replacing other than designed t-static temps, with resultant damage to the flimsy non-turbo head-gasket scheme

Those pics showed there will be some increased difficulty for conversion, but should be no hill for a stepper - dh100m did it with little more than a fingernail file and a butter knife

You will still need a lathe to machine the spacer, an accurate drill press to get the studs in straight and a thermostat that will fit into the upper barbed housing.

RJM · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:50 pm

Numbers on the oem thermo unit alone (not the housing) read 80 CF9 05B any thoughts????

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 5:03 pm

RJM wrote:

Numbers on the oem thermo unit alone (not the housing) read 80 CF9 05B any thoughts????

Could be 80*C for 176*F initial opening with CF9(*C) full open at 196*F

Ennyhoo, all ideas are welcome, but dh100m stated he would post further conversion information on Monday

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 6:12 pm

RJM wrote:

gmctd wrote:

Could be a one-off upgrade for the turbo'ed version intended to be non-serviceable to prevent owners from replacing other than designed t-static temps, with resultant damage to the flimsy non-turbo head-gasket scheme

Those pics showed there will be some increased difficulty for conversion, but should be no hill for a stepper - dh100m did it with little more than a fingernail file and a butter knife

You will still need a lathe to machine the spacer, an accurate drill press to get the studs in straight and a thermostat that will fit into the upper barbed housing.

I also appears that you need a mill to machine off the arms which hold the OG Tstat. Or is this one of the things we are using the hack saw for.

RJM · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 8:59 pm

looks close
http://fautoparts.com/body-Thermostat-c ... auto-parts

Dent · **Joined:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:05 pm **Posts:** 275

Oh my! does that fit?

RJM wrote:

looks close
http://fautoparts.com/body-Thermostat-c ... auto-parts

dirtmover · **Posted:** Sat Jan 17, 2015 10:49 am

mass-hole wrote:

Sounds like a file, hack saw and some time

There's a tool mark around the circumference of the crimp abut 4mm down from the top half. I cut into it with a junior hacksaw about 1.5mm deep and snapped it away with a flat screwdriver. A gentle tap with a rubber mallet and popped apart in two pieces. It's about 10 minutes work.

mass-hole wrote:

What I want to know is why would they make it two halves and go through all the trouble to seal it up and use some custom T-stat.

I suspect it costs a few dollars less to make it that way. Minimal material in the casting, less parts and less machining.

gmctd wrote:

Those pics showed there will be some increased difficulty for conversion, but should be no hill for a stepper - dh100m did it with little more than a fingernail file and a butter knife

Yeah, I think I see some JB weld in there also. I wonder how that will hold up longer term?

RJM · **Posted:** Sat Jan 17, 2015 3:51 pm

If a replacement thermostat could be found to match the OEM unit, the existing housing could be used with very little modification to keep the two castings together. I am thinking a small victaulic coupler would do the trick. Any leads on a thermostate with similar specs??

Dent · **Joined:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:05 pm **Posts:** 275

RJM wrote:

I am thinking a small victaulic coupler would do the trick. Any leads on one with similar specs??

I'm looking at my spare unit, and I don't see how this clamp would work without machining a bottom flange. I think studs to hold to top on would be more practical.

RJM · **Posted:** Sat Jan 17, 2015 8:24 pm

http://s722.photobucket.com/user/userna ... g.html?o=0

Looking at a side shot there is more than enough lip for a Victaulic or V band clamp to catch on.

RJM · **Posted:** Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:04 pm

This one is very close just a tad too long
http://m.dayco.com.au/PartInfo.aspx?P=DT100A

Dent · **Joined:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:05 pm **Posts:** 275

RJM wrote:

http://s722.photobucket.com/user/username400/media/thermo003_zps8abb1be7.jpg.html?o=0

Looking at a side shot there is more than enough lip for a Victaulic or V band clamp to catch on.

I have one in my hand, and that sort of clamp can not go all the way around the bottom housing.

Dent · **Joined:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:05 pm **Posts:** 275

RJM wrote:

This one is very close just a tad too long
http://m.dayco.com.au/PartInfo.aspx?P=DT100A

Temperature is no good too.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jan 18, 2015 7:39 am

RJM wrote:

Numbers on the oem thermo unit alone (not the housing) read 80 CF9 05B any thoughts????

Those part numbers look similar to other German Behr/Hella thermostat part numbers.

I looked through a few Behr/Hella web sites, but I couldn't locate it anywhere.

It's probably a Behr/Hella OEM specific unit with an over the shelf different number.

More investigative work would need to be done.

I would call Behr directly, but I can't speak German. Can anyone else look into it?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jan 18, 2015 1:33 pm

These are the numbers I have on file:
Thermostat - 5142601AA OEM
VM Manuf. No. 49012026F
Behr No. C97780
ERA No. 350113

These are for the whole assembly!
Could find no listings anywhere for the 80 CF9 05B number.
Did find the Behr part in Germany for 62 Euro's. (~75$)

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

Is the Stant 14039 the thermostat (195F) used by dh100m? Original application is: GM 6.2L and GM 6.5L from 1988 - 1996.

new design thermostat using orignal parts

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